what do you think about when surfing?

[oldmansurfer]

Just curious what everyone thinks about when surfing. I am often thinking about the next set of waves coming in. I am trying to make sense of what I see out over the water. Like if the peak is over there will it break good over here? is that a set? am I far enough outside? I also have a certain amount of thoughts about the ocean what is around me? Surfers? logs? was that a log or a shark? if it's quiet I sometimes think about the last song I heard or the last ear worm I had. Rarely about other stuff in my life. When riding a wave I think very little just short thoughts like "made it!" or "off the lip" or "cutback"

[Naeco78]

I'm kinda the same. Life stuff stays on the beach. I think surfing is great for that.. just living in the moment and enjoying everything that the ocean has to offer. Sometimes I just think about how we literally get to ride waves of stored energy that formed from storms hundreds or thousands of miles away and then we get to experience that energy being dispersed back into the atmosphere. It's such a unique experience and it makes other thoughts drift further into the back of my mind. Not trying to sound like a Saltwater Buddha but that's what the ocean does to me

[SandInMyPants]

I usually forget everything else, and are just present in the moment with focus on my own surfing, and how to place myself when the next set comes in.

But at the same time it makes me happy to see others catch and ride waves as well. Especially when it´s great longboarders, somehow I feel the flow and enjoyment and it makes me stoked for my next wave.

I read that in France some doctors had tried to prescribe surfing as medicine to see if the patients could get better, and it had been a success. I suppose we humans often are able to forget the daily things when we are ´in the moment´ just surfing.

[ConcreteVitamin]

Same. I'm completely immersed/occupied with the surroundings. No attention to spare for work/life stuff.

[BoMan]

closeout.jpg (18.69 KiB) Viewed 991 times

Where I surf the waves often look like this so I spend a lot of time watching (and paddling) for the rideable gems that make the whole session worthwhile. As waves approach I make predictions about "no go" or left vs right and check to see if I was correct. I also like to watch how other surfers identify good waves, get into position and take off. On some days the swell bends around a shoal and good looking waves veer out of reach or bad ones become great at the last minute.

Solving the puzzle never gets old!

[ashton46]

I think I like surfing because it's such a momentary and fleeting experience. You literally sit in the ocean at a certain beach and wait for that single wave that has crossed an entire ocean, everything has to come together and it just so happens that you and that wave get to enjoy a moment together. It gives purpose to the wave and it gives purpose to me, and it makes the wave happy and it makes me happy. Not to mention the years of practice, and struggle, and frustration and chase that you put in to even be able to ride a wave. It's just so cool, every ride is different.

[LostAtSea]

Interesting, all similar replies. I am all of the above as well. Pretty much staying in the moment the whole time I'm in the water. Either looking at swells, the sky, birds, singing, Imagining what's lurking beneath the surface...

[312T4]

While in the water I spend time watching and catalogin the others. Who's good, who's kook. So that I can make an informed decision when picking waves and positions.
I also curse those better than me that are on every bloody wave.
Then I like to watch the sky, the water surface, fishes and birds.
If the wait is long I may think about real life stuff, but rarely.
If I have friends around it's all about jokes.
Then yes, I look at the sets coming and try to understand what's next, where to go. I remind myself what I should try to do.

But when I'm surfing than it's just a blur of emotions and -mostly- joy.
After a wave I laugh often, or try to re-live the action and understand the error.

[kookadelic]

how many sharks are in the water tbh

[one0one]

I paddle out chirpy..

Catch a wave..

Then start talking to everyone saying its Puuumping haha..

Only when the surf is on..

When it's trash I just tell jokes and muck around..

When it's packed some dudes are serious and it annoys me and creates tension..

I have no local so drive at least 30 mins so suppose can't be grumpy at people in my back yard..

Sometimes I solve life problems when I'm surfing too.. Like when you go for a run and think a lot.. Paddling back to the take off can enable you to think sometimes..

Surfing is good for well-being .. But I guess you all know that

[IB_Surfer]

I rarely surf alone so most of the time I'm Chatty Katy with my buds. But when alone I spend time looking at my position in the water, the peak of the next set, and, actually, just enjoying the view of the ocean.

That said, I am a shifting surfer, if I think the peak is to my left or right I move over, so am constantly paddling.

[krustyburger]

When I start a session, sometimes it takes a bit for the mental chatter to subside, specially if I've been away from the water for an extended break. On those days, I might think about how the water suddenly feels a lot colder, or I may be thinking about my breathing, paddling, board positioning, wetsuit fit, etc. and feel like I need to make small adjustments. Eventually, those thoughts fade and I'm back in the moment and can really get into my session. When I'm surfing a lot (daily or nearly daily) I find that I more easily and quickly get into that surfing mindset of not thinking too much and reacting based on instinct.

For me, its the parking lot monkey-mind that causes more turmoil than anything I experience in the water. "Should I go in?", "Aww, looks crappy and onshore", "its too small/ big", "tide's too high/ low", "too many people in the lineup", "I didn't bring the right board", "I've got other stuff to do".