jaffa1949 wrote:Ah surf917 I am not even shooting at you really, volume has only recen...
Hi Jaffa, I wasn't aware that EPS boards are more floaty that's real interesting! And definitely, I wasn't trying to wrap my legs around the board but just an idea of how much I was struggling with it.
I have been surfing every other day for almost 3 months now on an 8 foot foam board. I had no issue sitting on that one and it helped that I had that extra length on the tail side as I was sitting on the back center of the board, so I would sit on it with the nose sticking out on a slant just fine, and I had no issue turning while sitting using my legs (clockwise/counterclockwise motions) and eventually it got so easy I would just sit on it leaning backwards and sometimes just sway while sitting side to side when I'm bored.
I honestly prefer the convenience of getting in and out of the beach rather than catching more waves. I definitely agree that catching more waves will make me a better surfer but it's more recreational for me and I don't mind missing a lot of waves. I do hate lugging the long board past the waves (and often turtle rolling) and prefer nose diving to get back in the lineup.
I REALLY love the versatility of the shorter boards and how easy it was for me to move around with it in the water. It is sort of a deal break for me whether the board can easily be placed in my car, moved through my elevator, and easily carried into my condo. I live 15 minute drive away from the beach so I really want to own my own board and head out just before the sun comes up.
Also, I'm sorry you had to go through such challenging health problems; had a family member who had a very early stage of cancer and it's never easy. But for you to overcome it and still surf is amazing man! Haha, Im new to surfing but I'm out there right now paddling with one arm since I injured myself a bit recently, but love being in the water so much. I guess it helps I'm new to the coast so it's something new for me.
krustyburger wrote:Like everything else in surfing, learning to sit on a bo...
I REALLY love how easy it was to turn on the shorter board compared to a long board. It's so much more versatile. It's why I was trying to transition to a high volume fish board so I can still attempt smaller waves while gaining those benefits.
oldmansurfer wrote:Sitting on a board is one of many...
That is what I was presuming. I really want to try a lower volume fish and see if I can sit on it while the board is underwater. Going to have to look around to rent one.
As for what I learned, I've noticed if the board was a bit longer, I probably would have had no issue sitting on this board like I did with my long board. The board I have is simply in the middle where it's not long enough for me to to sit on it like a long board and not small enough for it to sink when I sit on the dead center.
I've attempted to sit on the dead center this session a lot more and it was fine for a bit as the board was sinking maybe a few inches below surface but since the board was so buoyant, I would easily get pushed off position and the board will tend to either nosedive in a way or push me back sideways. It felt like I was riding a mechanical bull practically which was a bit extreme and I don't think I'll be able to tame this one xD.
One thing I did learn is that by arching my back and focusing that arch near the hips/lowerback, I would be able to stay sitting with the nose sticking out in front. But again, since the board was a bit shorter than I needed, the board will slowly slip forward and shoot upward with the buoyancy (looked like a dolphin at this point).
I'm going to try and find a smaller volume board to rent as the other route would be to go for a longer board. Would definitely like to see what it's like sitting with the board deeper under the surface. And yes, I know this would mean it'll be very hard for me to catch waves. Hopefully a good fish would make it less difficult.
Other than looking like a complete kook today paddling with one arm and looking like I'm trying to ride a dolphin constantly falling off my board, the SouthBay Co. soft tops are amazing quality. They used to sell the Mahi in 5'8'' but decided to make them 6'. Wish I could try their smaller version since I love this board so much. Paddles really really well and super light but durable. The gripped foam is super convenient too not needing to wax it. Looks sexy too.
Thanks again guys for the inputs and loving this forum already. I got started with a coworker that surfed (who secretely seemed to dislike me so I don't ask him for advice anymore haha) and is much more enjoyable than playing pickup basketball for me (not that basketball is bad).