Should transition out of my foamie and to what?

[charlie5168]

I am 52, 138lb 5ft3. Surf twice a week. Currently on a 9ft foamie. I consistently caching waves at Cowells (exclude times I let other surfers go). Looking at my last session, I rode around 20 waves longer than 20 seconds in 4 hours. I have some control on the board. turning left and right. but not able to walk back and forth yet.

I am ready to have more fun. I surfed Jacks a few times. Just looked at my data: 10 rides over 20 seconds in 2 hours. About the same performance. But the wave at Jacks and Cowells are tide dependent and not as many as pleasure point. So I went to PP on a stormy day. It is horrible. Only 2 times I really got up and rode in. There are a few times I caught the wave and start surfing, but I just cannot not surf fast enough to get out of the impact zone. Did I pick the wrong starting point? I tried to start to the right and managed to ride later. Will a better board needed here too?

What board? size, shape and brand would you recommend?

Or should I stay at Jacks? Pleasure point is too advanced?

[waikikikichan]

I’m basically the same as you, 52 years old, 125 lbs. , 5’3” and started out on a 9’0” sponge board.
I would recommend maximizing what you can do on the sponge before moving to a hard board. The limiting factor on sponge board isn’t the board itself, but the super flex rubber fins. The sponge is capable of turns and staying on the face, that’s unless it’s full of water.

[charlie5168]

I’m basically the same as you, 52 years old, 125 lbs. , 5’3” and started out on a 9’0” sponge board.
I would recommend maximizing what you can do on the sponge before moving to a hard board. The limiting factor on sponge board isn’t the board itself, but the super flex rubber fins. The sponge is capable of turns and staying on the face, that’s unless it’s full of water.

Thanks for the advice. It makes sense.

Is there anything I can do? I don't think I can replace the fins. Is there moves on the board I should practice?

[waikikikichan]

To improve making it out onto the clean face, you should try doing the RACECAR technique. It's fun and a lot safer to do it on a sponge than a hardboard.

[charlie5168]

What is "RACECAR technique"? I am not able to find it online. Could you explain a bit more?

Thanks

[waikikikichan]

It's basically sit down surfing. Paddle prone normally but when you go to push up, throw your legs under your butt and sit down feet out in front. Grab the outside rail with the arm on that side and lift up. You can lean back to keep the nose up or lean forward at the waist to plane better. This technique will block out the badness that comes from "poo stance" and "hinged body". Also it will teach you rail control and how shifting your weight back and forth and side to side really makes a difference.

The thing about surfing sponge boards is because of the flexy rubber fins, you really got to wait for the board to flex and rebound. It will turn, you just have to know how much to push and when. If you force it, normally the fins will break loose. That said you need to get your foot way back over the fins to make them engage in the water. But that is advice is hard to give as most beginners will try to look down to check where their foot is. ( which makes things even worse ) Don't look down, you need to go by feel.