Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

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Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

Postby Climbsurfgirl » Mon Jan 13, 2020 10:34 pm

Hello guys I just started surfing maybe three months ago. I just changed from my foamy to fiberglass 9 foot longboard. I need some advice sometimes I have the Feeling that I fall down the wave, when I thought I caught it right.
It’s like an impact and then usually a wipeout follows. Are the waves to high? Is my board too long? Do I not paddle enough?
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Re: Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

Postby IanCaio » Tue Jan 14, 2020 3:49 pm

How are the waves where you surf? Are they hollow? Or are they chubbier?

Sounds like you're entering the wave a bit late, possibly because you're not paddling hard enough. With a longboard you should try to enter the wave before it's breaking, when it's still building up.
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Re: Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

Postby Jripper53 » Wed Jan 15, 2020 12:36 am

Hello,
I have also experienced this and for me it always boiled down to a couple things: 1) I was not paddling enough to fully catch the wave (as the above reply also stated) or 2) I was catching the wave too late/popping up too late so the wave would break as soon as I caught it and throw me forward. This has a lot to do with being in the right spot on the wave and not too far forward on the board. 3) if the waves you surf break quickly like at a beach break, you need to get turned down the line quickly because a 9' board doesn't fit too well pointed perpendicular to a 2-4 ft. wave as it rises up and gets steeper (personal experience here). Hope this helps.
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Re: Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

Postby dtc » Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:18 am

Are you looking down at the nose of the board or your feet? Look down, go down
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Re: Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

Postby Climbsurfgirl » Sat Jan 25, 2020 2:24 am

Thank you so much. Not paddling hard enough might be it.
And I still can’t really go down the line.
That’s probably the second reason. I surf 3ft max. Thanks guys, that helps!
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Re: Feeling of falling down the cliff with longboard on wave

Postby Climbsurfgirl » Sat Jan 25, 2020 2:25 am

I might be also looking down at the nose. Wow! Never thought about that!
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