by Jripper53 » Wed Jan 15, 2020 12:36 am
Hello,
I have also experienced this and for me it always boiled down to a couple things: 1) I was not paddling enough to fully catch the wave (as the above reply also stated) or 2) I was catching the wave too late/popping up too late so the wave would break as soon as I caught it and throw me forward. This has a lot to do with being in the right spot on the wave and not too far forward on the board. 3) if the waves you surf break quickly like at a beach break, you need to get turned down the line quickly because a 9' board doesn't fit too well pointed perpendicular to a 2-4 ft. wave as it rises up and gets steeper (personal experience here). Hope this helps.