Oh Good Lord... This weekend.... WOOHOO!!!!!

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

Postby sinistapenguin » Fri Oct 14, 2005 12:31 pm

so, without wanting to get too scientific, what happens when an area of low pressure moves from the northern hemisphere into the southern?

Does it just suddenly change direction?
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Postby moncho » Fri Oct 14, 2005 1:08 pm

k mac wrote:hmm teletext .....booked it, packed it ,f*ucked off (Peter Kay top of the tower)


get on t'internet!
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Postby niallhills » Fri Oct 14, 2005 3:28 pm

O the waves this weekend over here in little ole Ireland (pOrTrUsH) were huge. some faces 12-14 foot. some great surfers out as well. the atmosphere was great and everyone had so much fun


Baltic tho! :D
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Postby Phil » Fri Oct 14, 2005 5:04 pm

ireland allways gets the best waves swells not even hit us yet gonna get in at 5am tommorow have a feeling its gonna be zooed out at saunton by 10am
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Postby NorthDevonBigBoy » Fri Oct 14, 2005 6:20 pm

so what do you think/est what the wave will be???


ill be in the water around 8.30amish
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Postby Broosta » Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:23 am

sinistapenguin wrote:so, without wanting to get too scientific, what happens when an area of low pressure moves from the northern hemisphere into the southern?

Does it just suddenly change direction?


I think (after much web reaserch!)that the Coriolis effect would be too insignificant compared to the other forces at work to influence the direction of the airflow but as soon as the area of low pressure moved accross the equator the Coriolis effect would be reversed. The Coriolis effect is weakest at the equator and strongest at the poles.
Hurricanes do not occur within 10 degrees of the equator as Coriolis effect not enough to help the spin - except once when Typhoon Vamei did in the South China Sea in 2001!
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Postby Phil » Sat Oct 15, 2005 4:47 pm

NorthDevonBigBoy wrote:so what do you think/est what the wave will be???


ill be in the water around 8.30amish


was easy 6ft + xxxxx of a paddle out did check out lynmouth but wasnt all that great
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Postby PapaW » Sat Oct 15, 2005 5:49 pm

I bet my old stomping grounds was a night mare this weekend....

This swells been seen comming for the last week at least plus its a weekend everyone must have been on the case.
I really notived the numbers even up here in north wales. My fav reef was a very busy 12 peeps out today :(
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Postby floot » Sat Oct 15, 2005 6:30 pm

Bugger!!having just come back to surfing,with a break of years for the children, have missed the best weekend in ages!!watched it from the beach (under the pretext of going to the shops for the good lady)and it looked great......the new board is getting closer to being mine.Optomistically.
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Postby Phil » Sat Oct 15, 2005 7:27 pm

croyde was the best ive seen it all year proper barreling shame the comp on at saunton was right were the rip was to get out back though
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Postby k mac » Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:39 pm

My fav reef was a very busy 12 peeps out today


oh poor you papaw :roll: want some tea and sympathy :wink: (you smug xxxxx you :oops: )
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Postby drowningbitbybit » Mon Oct 17, 2005 9:24 am

'Oh good Lord' was right.... :shock:


Saturday, high tide, Putsborough, - amazing. And much much much too much for me :roll:

There were lines spreading all the way back to the horizon, and they were double-triple overhead. Some of the sets were even bigger. A huge crowd turned up to watch, and the video cameras came out.

I'd been out, got mashed, got mashed again, and eventually admitted defeat and just spectated - it was worth watching. Some of the highest airs Ive ever seen :D
But there were loads out in the line-up, and there was a lot of 'coming togethers' and people were getting some hideous beatings by the close-outs.

As I said, too much for me.... :?

Sunday was smaller but messier - had an okay session at saunton, then had a bit of an issue with a rip :shock:

Shockingly, the most fun session all weekend was at croyde on friday night on a knee-high ripple. A gentle mellow session with some friends, interspersed with moments of manic activity trying to bash the lip off a 1ft wave! :D

I've got some photos from Puts on saturday, but on a 36mm camera, not a digi, so it might be a little while before I can put them up - but I will! You need to see what you missed!
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Postby drowningbitbybit » Mon Oct 17, 2005 9:55 am

Okay, found this on the little pink shop site...

Image


That's not a particularly big set, and doesnt show any of the crowd in the line-up at all, but you get the picture! :D
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Postby sinistapenguin » Mon Oct 17, 2005 3:06 pm

At this point I would like to re-iterate my ealier post:

I hate you all!! :x
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Postby moncho » Mon Oct 17, 2005 3:52 pm

How awesome was this weekend!! I nearly got killed on saturday at woolacombe! I was sitting out in the lineup when suddenly this monster set came hooning in, getting ready to close out right onto our heads... everyone started paddling like fook and everyone but me made it out of the impact zone... :shock: I will never forget the sight of that 12ft face towering above me, blocking out all light... pausing only to think 'holy f*cking sh*t' I ditched my board, dived and swam for the bottom... i've never heard anything like the thunderclap that shook the water above my head as it broke! It actually vibrated my head! F*ck! :shock: Definitely one of the most terrifying waves Ive ever seen including abroad!

Stupidly I went back in later that evening thinking the dropping tide would have mellowed it a bit. Even more stupidly, I jumped in a rip to get out the back. Stupidest of all, I managed somehow to get sucked back into the rip! The wind was straight offshore and I was cruising out to sea far faster than I could paddle out of it on my wee 6'4! I really thought I'd had my chips. Don't know how but after about 3/4 hr of solid paddling and some encouragement from a kind old longboarder who came to my rescue I made it back in again... but jesus christ... :shock: :shock: I am definitely guilty of underestimating the awesome power of the ocean. Took a sound aqua-thrashing to teach me that lesson properly :D
Rounded the weekend off with a nice gentle pootle at saunton on sunday. Phil - definitely feeling your pain with the longboard comp in the rip on saunton... I didn't get anywhere near the back without it! (probably something to do with the beasting my arms took escaping the rip on saturday as well though :wink: ) Whatever caused the freak conditions this weekend, bring on some more! 8)
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Postby babyboarder89 » Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:31 pm

has this happened yet? how was it? im comin to saunton on thursday...will it still be there?
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Postby drowningbitbybit » Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:05 pm

moncho wrote:How awesome was this weekend!... I nearly got killed on saturday a.... everyone but me made it out of the impact zone... I will never forget the sight of that 12ft face towering above me, blocking out all light... pausing only to think 'holy f*cking sh*t' ... It actually vibrated my head!... stupidly, I jumped in a rip to get out the back. ... I was cruising out to sea far faster than I could paddle out of it ... really thought I'd had my chips. ...about 3/4 hr of solid paddling ...I am definitely guilty of underestimating the awesome power of the ocean. Took a sound aqua-thrashing to teach me that lesson properly .... Rounded the weekend off with a nice gentle pootle at saunton on sunday. .... Whatever caused the freak conditions this weekend, bring on some more! 8)


Hang on... that was my weekend!!! :D :wink:

But as for bring on some more? :shock:
How about same conditions but half the size :wink:
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Postby drowningbitbybit » Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:08 pm

babyboarder89 wrote:has this happened yet? how was it? im comin to saunton on thursday...will it still be there?


Nope, thats one classic weekend we wont see the likes of again for a while :shock:

But you'll still have a wave at the end of this week, dont you worry :D
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Postby Phil » Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:48 pm

biggest its been all year i think check out



they were doing tow ins at oysters
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Postby k mac » Mon Oct 17, 2005 8:34 pm

surf was brilliant but i had a sh*t session ! crowded and where i was a bit of a bad atmosphere and i was having f' all luck on my new board ! :cry: still learnt what it feels like duck dive under a longboard :shock: and what it feels like to get a longboard fly and hit me in the side of the back side :oops: oh and i now know what ot feels like to get spat at in the water :shock:
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