by dtc » Thu Jan 24, 2019 1:48 am
You will see in the video that Old Man linked that most of the surfers do have their back foot land just before the front foot. Its very close at times; but Jordy Smith (first guy) its pretty clear (noting that this appears more pronounced because its in slow mo). I think the guy in your first video just did it a bit slower than normal, maybe being lazy or because of the nature of the wave or just because thats his way of doing it.
The pop up technique is arguably irrelevant so long as you (a) pop up and are balanced (b) consistently land your feet in the correct place and (c) its quick. How you achieve those outcomes is neither here nor there - its like a golf swing. There is the perfect swing and then there are pro golfers who can hit the ball better than all of us with technically 'terrible' style.
Sure, absolutely, the perfect swing is what you aim for as a learner and is the 'baseline' to copy; but if you achieve the right outcome doing something slightly different, then congratulations. You are up and now actually surfing.