by oldmansurfer » Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:11 pm
Most likely you still need to work on your bottom turn and positioning on the wave. That helps to set up the rest of the wave. Throwing spray is going to come once you get the mechanics down and can start to use more pressure in the turn. Surfing takes some time to learn. So I would say work on your bottom turn so that you can project out of it to a point six feet down the line and at the top of the wave or to generate enough speed to allow the next turn. Then while you are still practicing your bottom turn attempt other turns as they seem to fit the wave. A common mistake in doing cutbacks is to try them when the wave has died off and there is no power to get you back onto the wave so you need to start while the wave is still relatively steep but going to become more flat after that. Unfortunately once you get the cutback down you will never see the spray you generate because to do it properly you are looking where you are going and not where you have been. There are lots of videos on the internet showing how to do cutbacks so go watch them all. So the funny thing about turning is it generates more friction so can slow the board down but if you add power with your weight and technique then you can maintain speed or increase it or at least not take too much off. But all of this takes time
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.