Bigger waves, still ride the log?

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Bigger waves, still ride the log?

Postby Blackvans1234 » Tue Dec 04, 2018 5:58 am

Hey everyone, long time no see!
Ive been living on maui for the past 6ish months so ive gotten to practice surfing a bit :lol: :lol:

To keep this short, my question is basically:
When there are larger waves (larger meaning 6-8 foot faces), should I stick with my longboard (9'2), or go shorter (I have a 7'2 fun/fish), or even shorter-er (6'8 board). I have found myself frustrated with the shorter boards in the larger conditions.

I almost always surf head high or smaller conditions due to location / lack of a car, and up until recently have almost exclusively ridden the longboard in these conditions as I have noticed significant progress with bottom turns, top turns, cutbacks etc. (However moving forward in waist high days I will start taking the 7'2 out )

However there have been maybe 2 or 3 south swells that have brought 6-8 foot faces to my area since ive been here (about 3-4 months ago ---- notably before I made significant progress with my skill level IMHO). During these swells I found that I enjoy riding my longboard because I get into the wave/ popup early, and am able to pick my line with more time and more stability. Also I have the added benefit of having an easier time paddling back out. Of course the name of the game when surfing the 9'2 is "find the channel and /or don't get caught inside". I would like to mention that I am really not able to duck dive my other two boards very efficiently either due to their volume (51L and like 45L).

On a few more recent occasions I have used the shorter boards in similar conditions (I was forced because we drove and my buddy doesn't like strapping down my longboard on his roof :oops: ), and my experiences have been mostly frustrating, as I had a harder time catching waves (multiple factors Id say- crowds, conditions, new breaks, personal ability).

As I reflect on my experiences I wonder if it is more of just having to suffer through learning the considerations of the shorter boards and bigger waves, or If the longboard would actually be best for my situation and the given conditions.

Can anyone provide any guidance or personal experience? :woot:
Lifetime Wave Count:
Frontside: 284
Backside: 3
User avatar
Blackvans1234
Surfer
 
Posts: 65
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:52 pm

Re: Bigger waves, still ride the log?

Postby dtc » Tue Dec 04, 2018 8:26 am

Surf what works. Most people surf bigger (than their normal) boards on bigger waves. Until maybe 20 years ago, everyone surfed big boards on big waves. Stretching back, Greg Noll surfed 9ft+ boards on huge waves. Big wave guns are all 8ft plus

There is no rule that big waves means small boards.
dtc
Surf God
 
Posts: 3833
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 4:58 am


Similar topics

Rogue Waves
RELATED: Surf Chat
Author: BoMan
Replies: 5
Beautiful Waves
RELATED: Photos and Surf Photography
Author: BoMan
Replies: 257
Let's ride the wave!
RELATED: Hey I'm new - Introduce Yourself
Author: Anonymous
Replies: 1
Return to Surfing Lessons For All