Latest Surfs...

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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby ParkerMcMullan » Tue Sep 18, 2018 11:33 pm

Can anyone give me an idea of how much a 70’s lighting bolt made by Tom Eberly in Hawaii could be worth in good condition?
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Sep 19, 2018 1:21 am

Old boards are worth whatever you want to pay for it. It won't be any good for riding because the resin and foam will have aged and it will fall apart rapidly. So the question is why would someone want such a board? And depending on how much they want it that is what it is worth. Was it owned or used by someone famous? If so then maybe worth something for that reason
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:17 pm

I went to Middle Horners yesterday and it was fun head high waves but no good rides however when I paddled out I saw something at inside Horners and went inside with a few minutes left in my surf time. I caught a real beautiful little wave there. It was almost head high maybe shoulder high and it was just a takeoff a stall at the bottom and a turn up to the face to a slight tail stall and then crouch. Pretty sure I almost got tubed there as it was a hollow wave and I was close to it but no coverup. Still a beautiful little wave. I am not sure if it was somewhere else how I would have ridden it but there the water was probably 3 to 4 foot deep where I took off and 1 to 2 foot deep at the bottom turn and along the wave. Pretty sure I would have gotten covered up if it were long ago on that wave. I had so many tube rides there. There were some body boarders there waiting to go out so I decided to cut my session a little short and let them have the break. The water there was warm like skin temperature not hot or cold. Today I went tot eh river mouth and the water was a little cold and there was a strong current from the rive water going out and north. I had to keep paddling in and south to stay lined up however there were multiple peaks to catch so I might lineup for the next one if I drift out of position. No really great waves but fast little things about shoulder high.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:37 am

I forgot to say that was 1 to 2 foot of water over the reef on inside Horners
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 30, 2018 10:45 pm

a one day surfing weekend for me. Yesterday was raining and there was only ripples and my wife had some stuff she wanted me to do and University of Hawaii football team was playing San Jose State and it was close and I was listening on the radio UH Warriors beat SJSU Spartans 41 to 38 in 5x overtime and I fixed the bookshelf and cleaned the stains from the bathroom sink during the game. Today there was only ripples again so I went to the rivermouth and rode some waist to knee high waves. I only caught three waves one I didn't popup because it broke on me before I could and the wave died out when the bouncing stopped and the next one was just a bottom turn and then I rode a wave maybe 50 yards in and decided that was good enough especially considering i had just seen a little shark. It was only 3 feet long but close enough to make me think "Hmmmm I don't have any fingers or toes I am willing to give up for these waves." If the waves were better then I might have had a different answer but I did wait for the best wave I could find to go in.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:43 am

Another one day surfing weekend for me due to having a virus (and not much surf). I made use of my time picking vegetables from my garden and watching the UH warriors beat the Wyoming Cowboys. The waves were waist to shoulder high and crumbly and probably the most remarkable wave was one that I rode for 30 yards when it wasn't breaking. I got forward on my board and jumped up and down on it to keep it going. One of the surfers out there had the shortest SUP I ever saw itt was 4 foot 8 inches long and rectangular shaped with 2 pontoons sort of on the sides maybe 6 to 6.5 inches thick at the pontoons and it had a foil. He shaped the board in my shapers garage. I didn't have my glasses on but I think the guy was a surfer that I used to see surfing at this very beach long ago on a grocery store bought styrofoam board and was the first kid I knew who had his own surfboard. His brother became a pro surfer (semi pro). But i am getting old and didn't want to embarrass myself if he wasn't that guy LOL or it might have been his son.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby tomthetreeman » Sun Oct 14, 2018 7:07 pm

Just got back from Cozumel, surfed the swell from Michael Monday through Thursday. I surfed two spots, Chen Rio and Playa Bonita. Chen Rio is a vicious, steep, and extremely fast wave, and Playa Bonita is a mellow beach break with a reasonable paddle out. Here are a couple of my friends from Monday... First is Antonio at Chen Rio, second is Machito at Playa Bonita:
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun Oct 14, 2018 7:10 pm

How about some pictures of you!
It's amazing the guy with the camera rarely gets shot!
I wanna see howya going :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby tomthetreeman » Sun Oct 14, 2018 7:35 pm

These were not taken by me, both of these guys have their own photographers lol.

I surfed that beach break on Monday, it was shoulder to head high. I must’ve gotten a couple dozen really good ones, despite strong offshores making the drop weird. It held the waves up nicely though.

I tried paddling out at Chen Rio Monday after surfing Playa Bonita all day, I couldn’t make it out!

Tom

PS, I don’t have any new pictures of me surfing. Going to Baja in January with the wife, I’ll probably get some then.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:51 pm

Nice waves tom. Single day weekend for me again . Yesterday Black rock looked nice but with 20 SUP guys out Today he waves were smaller and less consistent maybe around head high. I caught three or four waves but the only wave worth mentioning was the last one because I went inside for it and it ended in water that had boulders swirling just under the surface. However I got my exercise and ocean therapy guaranteed I paddled over a mile in my slightly more than 30 minute session. It didn't seem to mess my shoulder up because it is the powerful paddles that do that. It started sunny and nice conditions however as I paddled in rain clouds loomed on the horizon and the wind was picking up. There were a couple female SUPers out and a couple foil shortboarders and a couple foil SUPers. Near the shore inside of that break there was s single foil SUP guy obviously just trying to get used to it. Across the bay another foil SUPer at Horners and two shortboarders waiting for sets at inside Horners. The regular drunk was at his bench with his beer and his friend who has been accompanying him lately. There were a few fishermen trying their luck and a young tanned blonde haired woman with her baby who could have been Alana Blanchard since the baby seemed the right age and the hair and tanned body seemed to fit. If she stood or turned around I would have had a better chance to tell who it was since I think I would recognize Alana's butt because I have seen so many picture of it It was probably just another one of the beautiful people that come to worship the sun. Guaranteed I didn't get any waves as nice as Toms.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:37 pm

Another single day surfing weekend for me due to work. I went out today to Crookeds which is the reef break on the right outer edge of the bay inside of Black Rock. It was tricky due to swells coming from multiple directions and variable sized waves.. I got my exercise and didn't mess up my shoulder so I am happy. Caught maybe 4 waves but nothing worth mentioning. Nice weather, warm water.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby 312T4 » Thu Oct 25, 2018 6:01 am

I think I never wrote here.

Well, last Saturday I went to Kirra. The swell was supposed to be on the small side, but it was straight from East and there were sets at around 2 meters.
Unfortunately we were a bit late and the tide was receding, making the classic kirra closeout even worst.
We had to wait more than 5 minutes with our longboards in our hands before we could paddle out. It was a bit scary but once out it was beautiful.
I got a few but I really didn't feel like being a kamikaze, so I let all the big set pass by.
It was mostly a very steep and fast drop, a sort of bottom turn and out before the closeout. Fun, but also annoying as I love long rides.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Nov 04, 2018 10:19 pm

No surf last weekend due to continuing education classes and work getting in the way. This weekend there was a sewage spill on Friday and I was tired because I went out for a boys night out and my return home was delayed by an hour due to ongoing work on the sewer lines (after getting up early for seminars). The spill was on the far right side of the bay and it went into the river which goes out on the far right side of the river. I probably could have went to Horners which is on the far left of the bay but I decided I needed to get caught up on sleep because I had been having to get up at 3 am every morning to get ready then to go to work and make sure everything is ok before heading to the south side of the island for seminars after which I came back to work for the rest of the day (morning seminars). Today I was going to go and hoping there would be some waves. There were at middle Horners and it was a bit bigger than head high and some nice looking waves coming in but then there were double waves and you had to be exactly in the right spot to take off on the good waves which I wasn't ever there. I don't think it was because of my lack of surfing last weekend just challenging conditions. My best wave was the last one which was steep, you know like "Am I going to pearl?" steep but I didn't pearl and had a nice bottom turn to top turn combo and the wave died out. Anyway so glad to be back in the ocean. The only other guy at the beach that I saw was a visitor who asked me a lot about the ocean around there and told me what I hadn't heard that someone drowned/disappeared on the far right side of the bay while 'throwing net' so probably a local who hadn't heard of the sewage spill? Anyway the visitor was wondering if the body could end up there. I suppose there is a mathematical chance of that occurring but not too likely. If they don't find him I am sure the oceans eco-system will take care of him. Oh yeah the usual drunk was there with friends and on the far side homeless people camping.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Nov 11, 2018 10:09 pm

Another one day surf weekend due to work. Today it was pretty flat so I figured I would just paddle around and went straight in from my car in the parking lot and right as I was going in there was a small wave that I thought might be fun but once I got out no more waves for a while so I decided I needed some exercise and paddled off toward Horners about 200 to 300 yards away. When I got to Horners there were some waves breaking inside of the Horners rock which is kind of unusual. There were also waves breaking at inside Horners but it looked sketchy very shallow so I kept going. I caught a wave at the break inside of the rock got a nice bottom turn to the edge of the crumbly section and rode it till it got shallow. I was thinking this would be a rare occurrence where I don't catch any waves and I got one already so I was happy. There weren't many waves coming in but I paddled for a couple that I caught but didn't stand up because they didn't turn out to have anything to offer. Then I caught a waves that didn't break and rode it all the way in to the shallow inside area. I figured that was good enough for me and headed back toward the beach. As I approached inside Horners there were some nice looking waves. A couple of boogie boarders were on the beach after catching a few waves there. I decided to wait and see if I could catch a wave in and a nice little peak came right to me so I took off and had to make a very quick popup and quick bottom turn and got a nice hollow little wave that I didn't get tubed on but managed to stay in the pocket for a little while and rode it all the way to the shore. As I cutout the boogie boarders were giving me a thumbs up for the ride. Nice day it was raining earlier and later but nice conditions while I was there (sunny intermittent clouds)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:16 pm

A one day surfing weekend for me. I surfed at Middle Horners and it was around head high and mostly pitching over then crumbling. There were some nice long steep walls coming in but infrequent and in a different lineup than the frequent waves. No really notable waves but I did go over the falls on one wave which is an unusual thing for me. I was really close to being exactly in the right place but it was a double wave and it pitched up rapidly and before I could popup it was too steep and I couldn't back out and I knew I would probably air drop which I might have gone for if my board was straight down the wave but it was angled and I was afraid of getting a nutcracker if I tried to stand so I just popped up on my knees and held the board and when it dumped me I dove sideways off the board. It probably looked much worse than it was and felt like any other wipeout. I did a turtle roll today when a wave was going to break right on me and it worked okay which is another unusual thing. One more unusual thing is I dropped my board in the parking lot on the gravel and it got a few scratches which I used sun curing resin to patch immediately when I got home just quickly sanded and applied the stuff and left the board in the sun till it was hard. An unusual outing for me but still fun
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Nov 23, 2018 12:33 am

went out for a Thanksgiving day surf. I went to middle Horners and it was about head high heavy duty wind swell, the Tradewinds have been blowing 15 plus mph for a while. I think I set a record for going over the falls. I did that three times today and successfully aborted a bunch more without going over the falls. However the good news is no bad poundings just the usual minor poundings. I caught two waves and both of them required me taking evasive action due to logs in the water. I cut my outing short because of the logs however I think I haven't gone over the falls on three waves unintentionally on the same day since I started posting here. All in all a very challenging session but still worth it. Besides my wife boogie boarding there was one other boogie boarder. I think it was a bit rough for him. I didn't take a shower because there was a homeless guy at the showers doing something. On my way home I noticed he had stripped down and was showering naked. My wife got a kick out of that :) I hope you all have a good day and don't eat too much
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:53 pm

2 day weekend for me :rock: :thumbs: Yesterday I went to Horners the outside break it was overhead but not too big and not breaking top to bottom so not so scary as it usually is. No really good waves but I did go over the falls on my first attempt. :yearght: Anyway the conditions were nice but the waves were inconsistent and there were a few guys out and I think I saw one female out there on a foil shortboard. I caught one wave and wiped out and there was a foil SUP guy who wiped out outside of me I was a little to the side but there was another wave heading in and I paddled to the side to get out of his way so he didn't need to worry about his board hitting me. After taking a few on the head I paddled out and he paddled back out and and then he said something like "WHEW!" and looked at me and we both laughed. It wasn't any big deal to me but I guess it was for him. I think I haven't been hiking lately and that has affected my endurance. I was winded for at least 10 minutes out of the 30 minutes I surfed for. Today it was by the rivermouth near the place called Crookeds but a little over from there. It was interesting there were clearly at least three different swells coming in. One swell that was clearly from the north, one swell from the south and one from the east. Then many of them were apparently combinations of them. No really great wave either but I did go over the falls on my first attempt. What's up with that? :roll: I don't know but I think my skill level has dropped a bit due to single day surfing weekends lately but I think today I am back to where I was. Maybe the over the falls thing is just an indication of how unafraid I am of doing that on smaller waves? Whatever I will be glad to get back to where that is not a common thing :lol: Actually I just happy to have pitching waves to go over the falls on. Those are not bad wipeouts for me.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Dec 03, 2018 1:42 am

It was pretty small and most of the bay looked like a mud puddle so no surfing yesterday. Today much less muddy especially along Horners side so I went out there. There were occasional set waves coming in that broke at the outside break. I went out there and managed to catch a couple waves nothing great but better to catch a couple than nothing . There were some SUP guys out there but 2 of them went in before I got out and the third stayed for a few minutes and left me there. good conditions but not much of a swell maybe shoulder high 2 or 3 wave sets every 5 to 10 minutes.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby Tudeo » Mon Dec 03, 2018 5:44 am

I went out yesterday promising myself to take it easy to the max, that worked out differently.. I was out of the water for 17 days for a bit of sickness and it was the first day my body felt like surfing again.

I had hoped for tiny waves so I could bring the 9'4 single fin for relaxed paddling, but MSW told me it was 5-8ft faces at 15 sec and a medium low rising tide. I decided to bring the 8'2 Submoon, that board can handle that size and steepness effortless and is not too bad to paddle around with.

Conditions looked good with a little onshore wind but not too choppy and nice lined out sets. I choose the outside right as the place for takeoff, but to get there I must paddle out thru the channel around the outside Left, it's about a 3-400 meter/yard paddle and I did it slowly and took plenty of rests before any tiredness could spoil the shoulders.

It was not crowded, well for this usually extremely crowded spot. There was a lokal coach with his beginner/intermediate student (on a board that seemed a bit small for him, I always take good note of that..) sitting by themselves at the outside Left shoulder. The other surfers were on more inside positions all over the place. I aimed my paddle out at the two guys to go in a wide turn around them keeping on the outside, too often I was surprised there and caught by the big outside sets.

But just when I reached them and was up for a good rest, the horizon showed a big set coming. The coach urged his student to paddle more outside, and I tried too. But I didn't want to exhaust myself so when the set arrived I could still get over the first few but the bigger setwave was just too good to let go. Even though I was still a bit too much on the inside/late for this wave I decided to ignore my energy saving plan and go for it, I turned and had a late takeoff in the crumbly lip. I stayed down until the board settled and had a nice ride, but I fell off when I did a turn. It felt like my body had forgotten how to do that, only 17 days out!

The good thing of an early wipeout is you don't have to paddle back so very far. But still a decent paddle out.. But the thing is, everytime I reached that outside position and wanted to take a rest before I paddled to the Right takeoff spot, every time there was a Left so good in size and shape with me in perfect position, that I just couldn't resist. So instead of taking it easy and doing a lot of in between sitting breaks it was just constant action of catching, riding, falling off, paddling back, redo..

Then finally I managed to paddle further outside and to the left of the instant crowd, growing rapidly in that position. When I caught a big left with an initially soft crumbling lip so I could cutback and go right under the whitewater for 50 meters or so for it closed out. Now I was inside of the Right takeoff and had to fight thru the whitewater to get outside.

Getting seriously tired now I reached the position I was aiming for all that time, and what do you know!? No time to rest! There was the perfect Right just arriving, the size, shape, and my position just right. It wasn't even a conscious decision, I just turned and took off. The popup was perfect this time and I was stoked to feel my thin tailrail zip thru that steep clean moving beast feeling completely at ease and making more speed. But then I hesitated at the section, shoot up and do a floater or was I too late for that. Just that split second of hesitation decided the situation for me and I had to steer down to avoid the pitching lip.

I felt super stoked diving into the white water, ready to paddle out 1 more time, for just 1 more wave, right?..

Then it happened, I felt the snap I felt too often before and I really really don't like, my leash broke and I saw my board dancing away in the distance.. And then I felt how out off breath I was, and got a sense of panic, afraid my body wasn't ready for the swim.

I looked around and saw just one surfer around, I called out "Tolong!" I asked him too just keep an eye out for me swimming back. And started my swim in energy saving mode and it felt good, I could stop the heavy breathing almost immediately and find a nice relaxed rhythm, knowing there was no nasty rip in that area. I gave a bit of extra push to make the most of whitewater walls passing by and saw my board floating still far away.

The lokal surfer outside warned his friends on the inside and they started chasing my board and soon I was reunited with it. Never was I this happy with the lokal coaches :mrgreen:

The leash cord had just broken somewhere in the middle, that never happened to me before, it's always the attaching things that fail. There must have been a bit of damage that I didn't notice. Hmm, more precise pre surf inspection next time.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 16, 2018 10:31 pm

A 2 day weekend surfing for me. Last weekend I didn't surf because I messed both my shoulders up working in the yard the previous weekend. There were waves but it was stormy and rainy. This weekend I went to outside Horners yesterday and after a shaky start I got a nice wave. I was in the right place for the right wave and got a good bottom turn to a really good backside off the lip followed by a good bottom turn to top turn but the wave went flat after that. It was the best turn I have had in a while straight up and straight back down almost airdropping back down. After I initiated the top off the lip turn the lip thumped the bottom of my board making a sort of bell ringing noise. It felt really good and when I was done I thought "Maybe I do know how to surf." But today reminded me that I am just learning as I didn't catch a wave in 30 minutes finally came in and caught one on the inside just so it wasn't a complete failure to catch a wave. It was just very tricky and I was going for set waves that came in infrequent enough that I had drifted out of the narrow lineup area. I am going to get physical therapy for my shoulders starting tomorrow.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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