Considering a larger wave

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

Re: Considering a larger wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Sat Dec 01, 2018 7:03 pm

Yes those surfers sound like those who were clueless about the conditions or had too much ego involved in their decision. Whatever else was said about the conditions doesn't really matter since it what seems to be unsurfable to one person may be doable to another. 15 foot faces isn't that big
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8195
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Considering a larger wave

Postby RinkyDink » Sat Dec 01, 2018 10:03 pm

When I was young, my surfing buddy and I went out in horrendous conditions. We were so stupid. If I'm going to go out in big surf nowadays, the conditions have to be perfect. Big waves appeal to me when there is no wind, the surface of the waves are glassy, and my mood is right (excited to surf rather than anxious). If I'm not stoked on it, then it's best for me to avoid the pitfall of putting myself in the wrong place at the wrong time. Conditions like these just ain't my cup of tea.



I'm sure that the surfers around Lake Huron are so starved for decent swell that they'll brave those conditions, but I just don't want to be out on a day like that, especially with three foot waves cresting over concrete. No thanks. To each their own.
RinkyDink
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1370
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2015 12:58 pm

Re: Considering a larger wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Sat Dec 01, 2018 10:34 pm

The wet suit requirement is enough to discourage me from surfing those conditions however everything else I am ok with. They are jumping off the pier/breakwater to keep from having to paddle out. It's all a matter of timing.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8195
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Considering a larger wave

Postby Big H » Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:52 am

They were just lazy.....when they showed the surf the conditions weren't that hairy at all; padding out would have been ok.

There are a couple of breaks here that you can shortcut to out back by walking the headland then jumping in.....it is nice to enter the water and magically be out back already........
User avatar
Big H
Surf God
 
Posts: 3408
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:40 pm
Location: Bali

Re: Considering a larger wave

Postby RinkyDink » Sun Dec 02, 2018 2:51 am

oldmansurfer wrote:The wet suit requirement is enough to discourage me from surfing those conditions however everything else I am ok with. They are jumping off the pier/breakwater to keep from having to paddle out. It's all a matter of timing.


I'm just not crazy about surfing in strong winds like the ones in the video. I've watched enough Kookslams videos to just avoid jumping off piers and rocks. I'm too afraid of injuries to risk little shortcuts like that (Oops, I didn't realize it was 2 feet deep when I jumped off the pier). To each their own though. At any rate, my point is that I don't take on challenging surf unless the waves and water are just right. Why risk going out in big, choppy, chaotic surf when you don't have to?
RinkyDink
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1370
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2015 12:58 pm

Re: Considering a larger wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 02, 2018 1:50 pm

Knowledge replaces fear. It wasn’t big or dangerous surf, just unruly. If you already know how deep the water is off the pier and you have jumped off it in calm conditions then it’s not such a big deal. However I bet it’s freaking cold and that would stop me pretty much but mostly because I am not used to it
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8195
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Previous

Similar topics

Return to Surf Chat