by alwayspearling » Wed Jul 04, 2018 7:38 pm
by Blackvans1234 » Wed Jul 04, 2018 11:38 pm
by oldmansurfer » Thu Jul 05, 2018 12:41 am
by Big H » Thu Jul 05, 2018 1:07 am
by LegendaryKook » Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:24 am
by waikikikichan » Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:46 am
alwayspearling wrote: the waves catches the back of the board and just throws it over me
alwayspearling wrote:I find I've popped up and I'm kind of standing on the top of the wave as it curls over and I have no momentum.
by dtc » Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:35 am
by alwayspearling » Thu Jul 05, 2018 4:30 pm
by RinkyDink » Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:33 pm
dtc wrote:Remember that the initial take off down the face of the wave is due to gravity; you need to put the board over the edge onto the slope of the wave. You need to be in a position to do that. Also remember that you are not just fighting to get in front of the wave, the wave is sucking water up its face. You need to paddle to overcome that force. So its not easy, there is a bit of effort involved and you need to ensure you are paddling in the most efficient manner - because it doesnt take much until your inefficiencies become too great to outpaddle
by steveylang » Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:21 pm
by oldmansurfer » Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:42 pm
by RinkyDink » Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:24 pm
steveylang wrote:I thought this article described the relative flow of water around/in a wave pretty well-
https://surfsimply.com/surf-coaching/ho ... ard-works/
by nooshie » Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:25 pm
by Big H » Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:22 am
oldmansurfer wrote:when you have a wave that breaks because of suddenly shallow water the height of the wave grows suddenly. The force of the water moving along horizontally suddenly cannot go horizontal and has to go vertical. Those waves created by suddenly shallow water have lots of water moving upwards. It's a real thing.
by oldmansurfer » Sat Jul 07, 2018 5:12 pm
by ubermensch33 » Mon Jul 30, 2018 5:31 pm
alwayspearling wrote:Thanks for all the replies.
Looks like, for a start, I should get a bigger board and work on my paddling. So, in terms of a board, would an 8' be good or should I go bigger?
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