I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

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I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby BaNZ » Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:22 pm

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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:18 pm

The angle of the board looks like he has a chance to hang on and make it to the unbroken face where he might be able to stand depending on if he has froward motion and exactly what the wave looks like ahead.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby BaNZ » Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:17 pm

Not when you grab on to the rails and have your feet dangling like that though. It's as if he is bodyboarding.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby dtc » Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:53 pm

If a paper wants to caption a photo ‘a surfer rides a wave’, surely there are better photos in existence

Also the water colour makes me (yet again) happy that I don’t surf in England
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:00 pm

BaNZ wrote:Not when you grab on to the rails and have your feet dangling like that though. It's as if he is bodyboarding.

exactly what it looks like but maybe he is headed sideways instead of forward in which case he is getting dumped but if he can body board it till he finds the unbroken face he might be able to pull himself forward and popup, that is what I do when I get hit by a wave before I can popup.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby RinkyDink » Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:31 pm

That's how you ride a surfboard once you reach what's called "Marmite Time" in Britain. It's an English thing.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby dtc » Thu Apr 19, 2018 2:24 am

marmite is the inferior version of Vegemite, I understand
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby RinkyDink » Fri Apr 20, 2018 1:50 am

dtc wrote:marmite is the inferior version of Vegemite, I understand

Yeah, Vegemite actually works as a shark repellant which is why they love it down under.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby Ratfinksurfer » Thu Jun 28, 2018 2:06 pm

"He just smiled and gave me a vegemite sandwich"!
"Surfing is attitude dancing."
- Gerry Lopez
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:48 pm

RinkyDink wrote:
dtc wrote:marmite is the inferior version of Vegemite, I understand

Yeah, Vegemite actually works as a shark repellant which is why they love it down under.


It also works as a chick repellent. :spew:
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:50 pm

BaNZ wrote:Not when you grab on to the rails and have your feet dangling like that though. It's as if he is bodyboarding.


exactly what I was thinking... his legs are all wonky, looks like they're going in two different directions, and he's gripping the rails. he has zero chance of getting up in that position.
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby oldmansurfer » Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:20 pm

That is true but maybe he wasn't trying to get up. Maybe he was trying to body board the surfboard to a smoother spot and stand up there. I do this sometimes when the wave hits me before I can popup. Of course it seems like he is just going to get pounded but I am pointing out that if he actually knows what he is doing there is a good chance he will make it out of this still riding the wave and have a chance to ride it to shore or cut out or get back onto the unbroken face and ride it. He is back on the board which makes me think he might be able to pull it off. Being on the back part of the board keeps the weight off the nose then combined with him gripping the rails and pulling up he may keep it from pearling and end up riding the wave laying down on the board.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: I don't think this is how you ride a wave.

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:30 pm

that makes perfect sense, actually. I'd never be able to get out of that pickle, I'd just get womped on the head.
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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