Waiting for a wave

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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby BoMan » Tue Jun 26, 2018 5:26 pm

JJGreenberg
My Mind: "Is this the right spot? Where is my beach marker?"


Often there are secondary swells that push me out of position and I have to focus on holding a good takeoff spot. The side swell can also force me to angle right to catch a wave before turning left to ride it. I love that surfing gives me so much to think about....every...single...time I paddle out!
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby kookRachelle » Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:45 pm

RinkyDink wrote:the author would get into a sensory deprivation tank after he dropped acid.


sounds like any given Sat night for me :beer: :shock:
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:35 pm

Haha. You and John Lilly and Timothy Leary
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby kookRachelle » Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:56 pm

Don’t forget Terrence McKenna!
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:17 pm

kookRachelle wrote:Don’t forget Terrence McKenna!

Wow! I can't believe I never heard of him before. He is even more of a loon than the other two.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby RinkyDink » Thu Jun 28, 2018 11:25 pm

oldmansurfer wrote:Haha. You and John Lilly and Timothy Leary


John Lilly was the guy's name. I couldn't remember it. Thanks.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby kookRachelle » Fri Jun 29, 2018 12:00 am

oldmansurfer wrote:
kookRachelle wrote:Don’t forget Terrence McKenna!

Wow! I can't believe I never heard of him before. He is even more of a loon than the other two.


To each their own. I’ve been known to explore the whole psychonaut world (responsibly and as a sort of form of therapy), from psilocybin to ayahuasca and there’s a lot that Terrence taught that I can see/relate to. But then again, some would call me a loon as well.
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Jun 29, 2018 1:57 am

kookRachelle wrote:
oldmansurfer wrote:
kookRachelle wrote:Don’t forget Terrence McKenna!

Wow! I can't believe I never heard of him before. He is even more of a loon than the other two.


To each their own. I’ve been known to explore the whole psychonaut world (responsibly and as a sort of form of therapy), from psilocybin to ayahuasca and there’s a lot that Terrence taught that I can see/relate to. But then again, some would call me a loon as well.

I think that using psychedelics changes the way your mind works and if you aren't careful you start to believe your hallucinations or altered states. It seems to happen with lots of smart people who used a lot of psychedelics.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby kookRachelle » Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:13 am

oldmansurfer wrote:I think that using psychedelics changes the way your mind works and if you aren't careful you start to believe your hallucinations or altered states. It seems to happen with lots of smart people who used a lot of psychedelics.


There is not a single word of this I disagree with. I just don’t see anything negative in there either ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:56 am

The bad part to me is they start to promote nonsense instead of science as they once did. They make everyone who believes them a little dumber. Some supposed eureka moment realized by use of drugs becomes a dogma they chase and fail to recognize their loss of touch with reality even in the face of the evidence they have in their own hands.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby saltydog » Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:32 am

dtc wrote:If there aren’t many waves I’m usually second guessing myself and trying to figure out if I should paddle over to a different peak.

BoMan wrote:As soon as I paddle to a different peak, the first one fires!

So true. Then I'd paddle back to the first peak only to see a nice wave rolling to the second peak!
"For the rest of your life, you can't look at a wave without thinking about riding it."
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Re: Waiting for a wave

Postby saltydog » Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:39 am

Ratfinksurfer wrote:
take a wiz in my wetsuit (I admit it!),


I peed in my wetsuit once, because I heard that people do that. Then I got out of the water and my wetsuit smelled like piss. I just bought a very nice Feral wetsuit that wasn't cheap. I don't piss in my clothes on land, nor do I piss my clothes in the water. But that's just me.

I don't either and I'm not lying 8) ... some days my xcel suit gets only barely damp if anything so I don't want to be sitting in a pee soaked wetsuit.
"For the rest of your life, you can't look at a wave without thinking about riding it."
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