(This could be made into a rubber stamp and stuck on the beginning of all surf stories from here......)
Anyway, a wave comes and 10 people paddle for it as usual.....I am deepest and I take the wave, only that I am immediately dropped in on the moment I get to my feet, forcing me to stall the board and get swallowed up by the whitewater ball...the perp was a skinny, beared and pasty skinned European who was trying to ride the wrong way (was a left and he was going right)....he accosted me after the wave passed....one finger in the air he said "I had priority position".......
I was disgusted since that had been a nice wave and had taken a little while to pick out.....I answered:
"LEFT!"
No, that was a right.
"LEFT!" I said again.
"Let's not fight" he said......"This isn't fighting yet" I said......
And now for the gold.....
He said "Anyway, I thought you were going straight."


