Big H wrote:Try going to a wave that you already know and practice linking the same sequences over and over........you already know what is going to happen, when the face will open up and you need to cut it back or else lose the wave because you get too far out in front....take off at the same point then do the same things - IE: step one, take off just behind the peak....step two, go down to the bottom of the wave and bottom turn with projection out onto the face....step three, get out on the face and rise to the top of the wave not to sharply keeping speed..........you get the idea.....do the same things on a given wave in the same sequence to develop a new technique; link one to two, then two to three and keep going until you've sorted a sequence of linked moves that gets you to the end of the wave doing more or less the same things each time a few times in a row. Its what I do anyway.......
I get what you mean, the thing is that most breaks nearby are sand breaks, the waves are a bit unpredictable. In the same session you get a mushier slower wave that is more prone to cutbacks, and then 5 minutes later you drop a steeper faster wave that you need to pump fast to get ahead of the closing sections. I'll still try to put your advice to practice, maybe looking for patterns in the sand breaks (even being a bit more unpredictable, each day the sand banks probably favors a kind of wave) and having a clear sequence in my head, trying to fit it in the wave. Maybe it will be more helpful to improve the technique to have that sequence already thought than figuring it out as I go
oldmansurfer wrote:I think you are doing more of a snapping turn which slides the fins a bit and this loses speed. You can maintain speed in a snap by hitting the lip when it is pitching over which will add more push to you going back down the wave. I like to carve turns which to me means putting a lot of pressure on the board in the turn and burying the rail to get more pressure loaded onto the board so you can use it coming out of a turn. I imagine I throw some spray but I never look so not sure. Maybe you can try holding the turn a little longer to go a bit more back (a carve back) or if the tail is sliding like I suspect then slide the tail a bit more. I enjoy the feeling of doing a tail sliding turn and holding it so I am going sideways on the wave then release. I use the biggest fins I can buy so that I have more drive in turns but if I wanted to do tail sliding more I might go down a size.
I think you got it right, that's what it feels like I'm doing at least: I get some speed, then try to hit the lip kind of killing my lateral speed and turning down the face, though I'm not sure how much the fins slide. I usually get some speed out of it when I manage to hit the right section, right when it's starting to throw, so it feels like I'm dropping in again.
I can see the kind of carving you're describing, I don't think I managed to do something like it yet. Maybe now that I'm starting to figure out my back foot positioning I'll be able to try something alike, because it probably requires some really sharp turning. I'll keep you posted how it goes, but last two sessions I definitely felt a difference by focusing on my back foot
Here is another sequence from this same day, a bit after I hit the lip. I know the bottom turn looks a bit lame after the carve, but I'm almost sure I was just preparing to throw myself against the wave and bail out since it was closing out ahead of me..



