by mg100 » Wed Feb 14, 2018 1:13 pm
by jaffa1949 » Wed Feb 14, 2018 1:26 pm
by oldmansurfer » Wed Feb 14, 2018 5:22 pm
by waikikikichan » Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:29 pm
by oldmansurfer » Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:44 pm
by RinkyDink » Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:09 am
mg100 wrote:When the waves get a bit bigger, bigger for me being 5-6ft + I always seem to hesitate when looking down at the big drop in front of me, normally i paddle as hard as i can but I still feel I could do with more speed,
I ride a 6.0 37lt swallow tail or a 6.1 31lt squashed tail.
by Tudeo » Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:11 am
mg100 wrote:I already know what most people are going to say to this question, that it is just experience but I'll ask anyway.
by mg100 » Thu Feb 15, 2018 7:19 am
waikikikichan wrote:2) paddling “harder” don’t matter. A batter and golfer can just grit his teeth, grip it and rip it, BUT if he doesn’t make contact with the ball it don’t matter. Question: are you holding your breath ? Are you cupping your fingers ?
waikikikichan wrote:3) does the take-off problem go away on 3-4 footers ? Only on 6 footers ?
waikikikichan wrote:4) what size board did you ride before the 6’0” and 6’1” ?
,waikikikichan wrote:5) confidence. You got a weak paddle, wrong board, bad timing and not strong knowledge of the waves, which leads to lack of confidence. I wonder if you are only ( can only ) go for the un-wanted “scraps” the other local rippers are passing up. Those might be the double-up jacking close outs you’re getting stuck up in. You might not have the confidence to sit in the pack at the peak where it’s best ( and easier ) to get on.
by dtc » Thu Feb 15, 2018 9:34 am
by Big H » Thu Feb 15, 2018 11:44 am
Tudeo wrote:mg100 wrote:I already know what most people are going to say to this question, that it is just experience but I'll ask anyway.
Yes, experience lets u read the waves better so u know where to be and what to do.
I remember of my learning period sitting in the line-up and looking at the waves seeing nothing of interest, when the guy next me suddenly starts paddling to position himself about 6 meters away to take off on a wave I never saw coming..
by Tudeo » Fri Feb 16, 2018 4:53 am
by gsseirik » Fri Feb 16, 2018 6:00 pm
by oldmansurfer » Fri Feb 16, 2018 6:35 pm
by BoMan » Sat Feb 17, 2018 6:44 pm
gsseirik wrote:How about your angle?
by jaffa1949 » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:40 am
by Silvery » Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:43 pm
Tudeo wrote:When learning you miss a lot of opportunities to ride a wave, actually every miss is a lesson.. But also you get into waves you wish you hadn't..
I did my first surfing in serious waves in SW-France, and still remember this one time, I was already frustrated of missing many waves but this time I was sure I had a good read on a wave I was sure to catch. When I paddled for the wave, from the corner of my eyes I saw the other surfers frantically paddling out and away. If I wasn't so high on adrenaline this would have caused me some concern, but I was too busy catching my wave. Which I did..
It was a big 1.5oh closing out wall that I took somewhere in the middle and that hit me in the head when I was at the bottom. It also gave me my first serious hold down experience. To make matters worse it was the first wave of a big set.. When I grasped for air from the hold down the next wave hit me, and so on..
When I finally made it to the beach my friends had a good laugh about it and explained me to never catch the close out walls. It took me some time to get over the shock and to get back in the water. Lesson learned.
by Tudeo » Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:56 am
by RinkyDink » Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:23 am
Tudeo wrote:I did my first surfing in serious waves in SW-France, and still remember this one time, I was already frustrated of missing many waves but this time I was sure I had a good read on a wave I was sure to catch. When I paddled for the wave, from the corner of my eyes I saw the other surfers frantically paddling out and away. If I wasn't so high on adrenaline this would have caused me some concern, but I was too busy catching my wave. Which I did..
It was a big 1.5oh closing out wall that I took somewhere in the middle and that hit me in the head when I was at the bottom. It also gave me my first serious hold down experience. To make matters worse it was the first wave of a big set.. When I grasped for air from the hold down the next wave hit me, and so on..
When I finally made it to the beach my friends had a good laugh about it and explained me to never catch the close out walls. It took me some time to get over the shock and to get back in the water. Lesson learned.
by Tudeo » Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:03 am
by oldmansurfer » Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:19 am
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