Wave Power

[oldmansurfer]

When you see a wave break and it has a long section of whitewater, that represents the wave dissipating or dispersing energy. If a reform wave develops then that is still energy that hasn't been used yet from the original wave and it may break and disperse energy. The whitewater bashing on the shore is the remaining energy that wasn't dispersed yet. So huge waves have lots of energy but the forces you may be subjected to depend on the force dispersed where you are and not the total force of the wave. If you look at a wave like Teahupoo it goes from a huge wave to a small whitewater (after a massive boiling cauldron) because it has a huge lip and breaks in shallow water so pretty much disperses the majority of it's energy right there ...very dangerous but only for a smaller area. More typical waves disperse over a longer distance so less dangerous in a given area but a larger area of danger.

[Big H]

Before I go out (and now with my new tide watch) I will know in theory what the swell and period is but it is not until paddling out and I punch through the first clean wave of the day that I will really know how much juice is in the surf for that day. Sometimes it is a real slap in the face wake up call and other times in spite of the heavy on paper report, conditions are kinda gutless.

[billie_morini]

Billie, I’m guessing most likely a Yamaha RZ350. ( or the odd chance a Suzuki 250 gamma ) Noticed your cool “Z” custom leathers.
My street and track day Honda 650 Bros.

Waiki, too cool of you!!!!

My engine was RZ350. Frame and running gear came from Yamaha FZ600, swingarm was from FZR600, and brakes were from a large Suzuki. I owned the engine, big honking carbs, and leathers. The engine was built by Rene, owner of Swedetech, in Sacramento, California (http://www.swedetechracing.com/about/). Rene is awesome! Everything else (boots, helmet, running gear, fairing, fuel, parts) was provided by sponsors. I was sponsored pretty well, but not because I won many races. It was because I could sell my sponsors' products.

I love knowing you've been on the track, too. I especially love the "Hi Mom" tapework on your covered headlamp. Where is that track in your photos? Hawaii? IF so, I've been on it, too. Cool, too, you recognized the manufacturer of my leathers. I still have them.

I raced regularly at Sears Point (known now as Infineon Raceway), Laguna Seca, Thunderhill, and Buttonwillow. I carted all my stuff in a heavily breathed on 1964 Chevy fleetside pickup. My big black dog and I loved this truck.

[BoMan]

Before I go out (and now with my new tide watch) I will know in theory what the swell and period is but it is not until paddling out and I punch through the first clean wave of the day that I will really know how much juice is in the surf for that day.

Interesting...What device did you get? Is it accurate for different breaks? Is there an advantage to having data on your wrist rather than studying a forecast before you paddle out?

[Big H]

It was on sale for 70% off and it was bright neon green (which I liked). Honestly it’s too complicated to screw around with while surfing and if i remember to look at the forecast before going out any advantage is moot.....I needed a watch and this felt good on the wrist and today I forgot to look at the forecast so it did the job. It’s a Nixon btw....seems solid, about 50 surfs with it so far(new in November so not really new2).

[Big H]

FWIW I swear the report is not as accurate as the watch; judging by reef exposure the watch is a half hour more accurate for me. Go Nixon!

[BoMan]

Magic Seaweed's "swell rating stars" are very accurate where I surf. Here's how they are made...

swellrating.jpg (20.65 KiB) Viewed 582 times

Generally swells from more distant, more powerful storms create the best surf. With more powerful, more organized waves. Our rating is biased towards this sort of 'ground swell'. This sort of swell also creates steeper faces, more likely to barrel or provide a better quality of ride on most surf craft. The total number of stars is the rating of the swell without the wind taken into effect. We then grey out stars if the wind is blowing onshore in a way that'll decrease the quality of the surf. So the overall rating for the hour is the total number of just the dark blue stars.

Do they work for you?

https://magicseaweed.com/help/forecast-table/star-rating

[Tudeo]

Magicseaweed is the first I check, but not so much the star system. Just predicted sizes, period, angle and wind strength and direction. Next I use some other sources for more detailed info on tide and wind. Then I try to make a guess about wave quality vs crowds to determine what board to use and what area to check out.

Some spots here can get too crowded for my liking at certain tide heights, so I rather go before or after that optimum tide window. Just bring the right board and there's plenty of stoke to be had.

[BoMan]

I use some other sources for more detailed info on tide and wind.

Which ones do you like?

[Big H]

I use wisuki for swell size, period, tide, wind, swell direction and weather. Depending on the break the size of the swell and period together with the tide can mean drastically different things so it is a reference that I have learned through actual experience what to expect at a given break with certain variables at certain values.


Wavecam tech is improving too.....love actually seeing the waves before going.

[Tudeo]

Which ones do you like?

For tide the interactive graph of Wisuki.com
For wind Windy.com

I always make a note of the start/end times of my session to write down a little report, later in the house. I lookup the tides for that and how it influenced the quality of the waves and currents. I use that as reference for later sessions.