Personal Surfing Milestones...

[tomthetreeman]

I've been surfing since August. I nose rode a damn foamie in my first two months of surfing, then I broke it getting smashed in a nasty closeout and I haven't been able to nose ride any of my other boards since then. I guess conditions had to be just right, and the stars aligned that day.

I've gone down the line a lot, and gotten extremely stoked about it... yesterday I had a probably 15-20 second ride on a small but powerful wave, it was rad!

I've also pumped down the line on that first foamie, as well as my 7'8" Ricky Carroll, and I've carved the face just a few times on that board too. Again, the waves have to be right for me to make it happen.

Gone down the line backside (intentionally), as well as changed direction to follow a changing break.

Yesterday the waves were often on top of each other, and I always wanted to catch up to the front wave and drop in on it, and that happened too. It was just a little one foot bump, but it was kind of cool!

Tom