What defines a naturally talented/prodigy surfer?

[kookRachelle]

I have a friend who does Ironman races and ultramarathons for fun and "a change of pace." Now I've done the endurance racing circuit thing (half Ironman 70.3 distance was my thing) and I was mediocre at best, but this guy is a freak of nature. He literally doesn't train for specific races (i.e. course and distance) - he's just always training 3-6 hours a day because he loves it, period. He runs NYC marathon every year (some years he "sneaks in" to the course with a previous year's bib - not that he is chipped and timed, he just feels like running it with the rest of the group). Anyway, to call him athletic is an understatement. He went to college on a basketball scholarship after starting to play in high school so it's in his DNA (unlike me).

He was in town for the marathon last month and I took him surfing for the first time, knowing that he would do well. I got him a lesson and sure enough, he got up on every single wave and we even went out again the following day.

So yes, I agree - I think some of the fundamental talents in surfing carry over to other sports and vice versa.

[BaNZ]

Sounds like my insane crossfit friend. He wasn't just a normal crossfit guy, he goes into those stupid competition and I don't know even know why he hasn't seriously injured himself with the bad posture. I also took him surfing and he was already better after the 3 hour session than most of the kooks I know.

[oldmansurfer]

Fitness and athleticism help but only so far. You still have to learn about the ocean and waves. I knew a guy who was an Olympic downhill skier and he said learning to surf was the most difficult thing he ever did. It took him 2 weeks surfing off and on all day to where he could catch and ride green waves. And he gave up at that point. I guess he had the idea that he would be riding waves like a champ after just a little while but realized it was years of surfing before he would reach that level.

[kookRachelle]

Sounds like my insane crossfit friend.

is he single? (kidding)

[kookRachelle]

I guess he had the idea that he would be riding waves like a champ after just a little while but realized it was years of surfing before he would reach that level.

That's seriously one of the reasons I love it! Progress is slow but that just makes it more exciting, I think.

[BaNZ]

Sounds like my insane crossfit friend.

is he single? (kidding)

I think he just met someone but was single for a loooong time. 4-5 years.

He was just a fat couch slob and started crossfit a 30+. I can't believe the body he has now. But then he works out every single day. I don't think he even controls his food / alcohol intake.

[Oldie]

I think there are those who are athletically gifted but not specific to surfing. They gain surfing skill by doing it.

Yeah. Sometimes it seems unfair. My teenage daughters boyfriend's (damn...) hobby is Tricking.

Not That I would ever try to do it, but that would also have been completly unthinkable for me at the age of 16. Now I invited him to our surf trip to France next summer. I think he might do well...

[oldmansurfer]

I think there are those who are athletically gifted but not specific to surfing. They gain surfing skill by doing it.

Yeah. Sometimes it seems unfair. My teenage daughters boyfriend's (damn...) hobby is Tricking.

Not That I would ever try to do it, but that would also have been completly unthinkable for me at the age of 16. Now I invited him to our surf trip to France next summer. I think he might do well...

Hey now that would be another level of surfing to have someone doing moves like that on waves. I can just see it coming soon to beach near you some little surf prodigy who also does tricking and combines them in the surf. That would make airs look tame

[kookRachelle]

Sounds like my insane crossfit friend.

is he single? (kidding)

I think he just met someone but was single for a loooong time. 4-5 years.

He was just a fat couch slob and started crossfit a 30+. I can't believe the body he has now. But then he works out every single day. I don't think he even controls his food / alcohol intake.

nah I was just kidding, I'm nowhere near ready yet.

Wow, good for him on all fronts! I can relate - he sounds like me after I ran my first 5K in 2008. Progressed to my first half Ironman less than two years later. Went all in, racing almost every weekend for years. I definitely watched my diet though (vegan) - unlike your friend. I have a lot of respect for Crossfit people - hard stuff.

Oh, and I won't ask why you have shirtless pics of your friends. Don't worry, I'm not judging.

[kookRachelle]

I think there are those who are athletically gifted but not specific to surfing. They gain surfing skill by doing it.

Yeah. Sometimes it seems unfair. My teenage daughters boyfriend's (damn...) hobby is Tricking.

Not That I would ever try to do it, but that would also have been completly unthinkable for me at the age of 16. Now I invited him to our surf trip to France next summer. I think he might do well...

wow, respect!

thought #1: they have incredibly strong ankles.
thought #2: there are only 2 girls in this video.
thought #3: there is a guy in a dress though.
thought #4: FINISH HIM!

[Big H]

I think there are those who are athletically gifted but not specific to surfing. They gain surfing skill by doing it.

Yeah. Sometimes it seems unfair. My teenage daughters boyfriend's (damn...) hobby is Tricking.

Not That I would ever try to do it, but that would also have been completly unthinkable for me at the age of 16. Now I invited him to our surf trip to France next summer. I think he might do well...

Tricking?!?!?

Slang must have changed.....tricking as far as I know is prostituting.

[Big H]

Oh, and I won't ask why you have shirtless pics of your friends. Don't worry, I'm not judging.

I am sure the couch potato sent that pic to everyone he ever knew........

[oldmansurfer]

It looks like a combination between gymnastics, martial arts, break dancing, and parkour.

[BaNZ]

Rach,

I see you don't have friends that are crossfit fanatics. Thats what they talk about all day and it's all about showing off how many reps you can do and how high you can swing the kettlebell. You will know when you meet someone that do crossfit as that is all they talk about.

[kookRachelle]

Rach,

I see you don't have friends that are crossfit fanatics. Thats what they talk about all day and it's all about showing off how many reps you can do and how high you can swing the kettlebell. You will know when you meet someone that do crossfit as that is all they talk about.

Ah, like that old joke... how do you know someone's a vegan? don't worry, they will tell you!

I actually tried Crossfit for a couple of months in 2015. It was a little much for me and I can see the reason for all the injuries, but I respect it.