Latest Surfs...

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Aug 28, 2017 1:00 am

This weekend I went to Horners outside and middle yesterday. There were surfers out both places. I managed to get a good bottom turn to cutback combo on one wave outside caught another and then it seemed to doe down so I went to the middle part. The only woman surfer I see regularly was there and dropped in on me sort of...... I was on the other side of the peak and would have went her way if she wasn't there but I just went the other way. She apologized for dropping in on me and I said don't worry that wave was nothing and we chatted a bit I guess she had been waiting forever for a wave and that one she was in position for. I surfed with another older guy for a while after that. I caught the set of the afternoon and blew it on the top turn probably turned too high on the wave and it was crumbling and warbley instead of pitching over and the board slid and lost traction (or lost traction and slid). Today I was back to the rivermouth because there were no waves elsewhere. The highlight of the day was the beginners who were there taking lessons and were so excited to be catching waves. Me too but not quite as much as they were.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 04, 2017 9:46 pm

I was supposed to have a 3 day surfing weekend but ended up putting in several hours of work both Saturday and Sunday keeping me out of the surf. But today I went out at Blackrock which is the reef break about 700 yards out on the right hand side of the bay. The conditions were nice, sunny very little wind and the swell was inconsistent about head high to overhead maybe 3 to 4 feet Hawaiian. There were two SUP guys out when I got out there. I caught a reasonably nice left but took off down from the peak and had to surf back to the peak then got a nice off the lip turn. Surprisingly I either won the paddle battle with an SUP or they let me go :). I am pretty sure I caught the wave and stood up before the SUP had caught the wave but they were further down the line from me and maybe couldn't have caught the wave from that position anyway. I caught a nice right too and did an off the lip on it also. Lots of exercise, I haven't paddled out there in a while and fortunately managed to catch some swells in so saved me from paddling all the ways in. Too much stuff going on in my life lately it was good to catch some waves.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby IanCaio » Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:52 pm

Almost 7 days straight of surf, only skipped yesterday because I felt sick. Had a few days of a stronger swell, around 5ft hawaiian on the biggest day, but breaking steeper than usually on my local break. Still building my tolerance to stronger hold downs, guess it's mostly psychological, but I guess I'm seeing some improvement. On the biggest day though, I caught about 3 waves and while paddling back from the last one I duck dived on the critical, got swirled and dragged, ended up aborting paddling back out because I was a little out of breath and there was still some distance to cover.

Had lots of fun! :)
User avatar
IanCaio
Local Hero
 
Posts: 478
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:08 pm

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:02 am

I went out this weekend in the small mushy break at the rivermouth area. Nothing spectacular but I did something I have never done in all my years of surfing. I don't even know how I did it but I snapped a fin off :). Shallow water is likely because I was trying hard not to jump off my board in shallow water but could have been a submerged log or a shark I ran over or years of abuse caught up to it. I need to go find some reasonable source of fins hopefully local so I can support them
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby IanCaio » Wed Sep 13, 2017 12:29 am

Had 2 days of hollow waves on a spot further away from here. A bit tired because I went early on both days (dawn patrol yesterday and early morning today) and it's a bicycle ride of a bit over 8 miles to get there.

There was this shallow sand bank, which made the waves hollow. Around 2-3ft hawaiian yesterday and maybe 2ft today. Tried to get some tubes, but didn't make out of any. But I'm happy I started to work out on a bad habit I had when barreling of closing my eyes sometimes. Those two days I concentrated to keep them wide open and it was awesome!

On a left yesterday I pulled the board quickly to the line, my back hand was touching the wave, I was crouching and I just noticed the sun light going away and the lip right ahead of me threatening to throw, like I was right at the edge of a tube, not so deep but probably already inside. Today there were maybe two similar to that one. But I didn't make out of any, except from one that wasn't a real tube, probably a little shower, but didn't feel like that one from yesterday.

Lots of wipe outs too, a few heavier ones from attempting late drops: at some point I decided to try waves I wasn't sure I was going to make, just wanted to commit. Didn't work out all the times :lol:
User avatar
IanCaio
Local Hero
 
Posts: 478
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:08 pm

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:28 am

Yesterday I surfed some of the most dangerous surf I have surfed in a long time. It was waist to shoulder high shoredump. Most of the waves I couldn't do a proper bottom turn because it was lurching up so much and there was only inches to do it in. I caught at least a couple waves where I didn't get totally pounded. I feel lucky to come out of there with no injuries. Tricky surfing. Plus it was muddy water to add to the hazard. I did get a shoredump closeout coverup cutout. Thought I would have more but it was really tricky. Today was significantly better. I went to the rivermouth area and caught some shoulder to head high waves, tricky to lineup and figure out which waves to catch but fun. I caught a left (backside) and got right up in the pocket probably the lip covered the back of my board. I think perhaps I did notice a little difference in the thruster setup as compared to my usual quad setup. It seemed a little slower with a little less drive but not too sure need to ride some better waves to get a better idea. Overall it seemed about the same.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:28 pm

Last weekend there was not much to say so I didn't post anything. Saturday small waves at the river mouth and Sunday I had to work. This weekend was equally as disappointing. The conditions were pretty good but there was no waves or not much. Yesterday I went to the rivermouth and surfed knee high waves but one that I managed to ride for about 10 yards trimming left. Today was fairly flat I would have went to the rivermouth but there was a fisherman there but it was half the size of yesterday. I paddled back and forth across the bay and then bodysurfed a little. I tried a flip like I saw in Waikikichans video and all it did was cut me out of the wave which is just as well since it would be breaking on sand right there anyway. I was hoping I could flip over and stand up on the sand but no such luck. I think I need bigger waves and fins.
IMG_1200.JPG
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Oct 02, 2017 12:21 am

The rivermouth area with fisherman. As you an see the sand is pushed out into that area making a wave that breaks for a while even when small. Also if you notice the sand slopes up quite a bit, and this means backwash so for the last three weeks it has been tricky because the waves are small and there is backwash. If the waves are bigger it often breaks out far enough you don't need to worry about backwash till you get to the inside section.
IMG_1201.JPG
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby BoMan » Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:09 pm

Bo is happening and I will be traveling. The rare outside break is working. :woot:

Forecast for the PATCH 10/6: Feeling it and dealing it with long period S swell emerging from the depths. Logjammers convocation continuing to climax as the incoming tide allows a fuller reveal. As large as waist high + well outside with diminishing heights but no less fun as you travel further shoreward.


https://www.2milesurf.com/surfreport/
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
User avatar
BoMan
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1464
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:19 am
Location: Napa Valley, USA

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby HyrdoDoc » Sat Oct 07, 2017 1:33 pm

Long Beach, NY, Dawn Patrol this am. Nice sets of fairly clean 2-3ft lefts, perfect for this goofy footer. Worst part? Low tide rolling beach break inside punishing us all for ending up inside. Paddle 20ft, get pushed back 10ft. By the time I'm outside, these 52 year old arms feel like lead. The challenge is getting past the sand bar scoop and dump around 50 yds out. If you make it past the grinder, you'll be rewarded with the chance to sit on your board a while and catch your breath. Beats jogging anyday!
User avatar
HyrdoDoc
New Member
 
Posts: 14
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2017 2:48 pm
Location: Long Beach, NY

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:17 pm

I went out yesterday to inside Horners which is a shallow reef break that I hardly ever ride because I broke the nose off my board there once a while back. But there was a lot of sand in the area and it was breaking a little further away from the rocks so I figured I would give it a try. I caught one good right and a couple short ones and then went to the middle break because I was seeding activity in that area. I caught one fun wave that amounted to a backside drop and bottom turn top turn then riding back across the reform to the right. Today I went to middle Horners, the outside was breaking but inconsistent and there were guys riding it and not catching the good waves and not having good rides that I could see so I went to unoccupied middle break. I caught a few waves but nothing to write home about. Both days I was using my 8 foot board with a thruster configuration and really didn't notice much difference from the usual quad setup. When I came in and was walking back to my car 400 feet away a set of about 6 waves came in and it was breaking in my favorite spot in the middle of the bay. The surf is coming up but unfortunately I won't likely find any time to catch it. I wanted to go out there right then but my wife was with me and she wanted to go back. To make matters worse I decided it was time to check my board for dings again last tiem when I broke my fin off and found 2 cracks that were taking on water!!!! Oh no well goo thing I checked it but I wanted to be sure it was ready for the hopefully coming big surf. Not for a while I guess. Going to use one of my other boards
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Oct 15, 2017 9:39 pm

There was brown water and not much waves yesterday so I forgoed the usual surf and instead mowed down my asparagus and picked my taro. Today the surf was up at least double overhead and some bigger maybe three time my height. I din't have my reliable 8 foot fungun because it was in for repairs so I decided to try my newest board the 7 foot egg. It was really dangerous and challenging conditions and I wasn't too familiar with the new board so I took it slow although I caught a wave right off the bat because ti came to me. It was only maybe slightly less than double overhead but I managed a few cautious turns on it. The conditions were really bumpy and there were huge double waves. The first more than double overhead wave that I was in the right place to catch had a 6 foot shelf half way down the face due to a double wave. I chose not to go because I am still unfamiliar with this board. I ended up only catching 2 waves the second was close to triple overhead and massive steep drop which my 7 foot egg with not much nose rocker seemed to handle like a charm. The wave just crumbled and the whitewater swallowed me up but I came back out. I am not sure but it may be that this egg board is going to be good for handling whitewater because it has less area in the tail for the white water to push against. At any rate I think I am going to have a good relationship with this new board. On one wave that I didn't successfully ride I did an air popup maybe the first one ever :) well at least for me. I hit a chop at the top just as I was popping up went airborne and popped up and landed it only to pearl on the next chop. :lol: Not conditions for the faint of heart.
IMG_1211.JPG
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:37 pm

Two surf sessions this weekend. Yesterday in the middle of the bay with my 7 foot egg. There were fast little rights coming in. I managed to catch a couple and then decided to try for a set wave. I wasted 15 minutes trying to catch a set wave. They looked more fun but were more inconsistent and breaking in a couple different places. Today I went to Blackrock and was riding the waves inside of the SUP guys nothing spectacular but I did get some long rides which my wife would approve of. Oh yeah and I had my 8 foot board back from repairs :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby Big H » Sun Oct 22, 2017 11:39 pm

I spent most of two hour session Saturday chasing inconsistent set waves that were breaking where I wasn’t. super consistently.......LOL. Last bit I came inside and took the scrappy mid sized waves. I feel your pain!
User avatar
Big H
Surf God
 
Posts: 3408
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:40 pm
Location: Bali

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby IanCaio » Tue Oct 24, 2017 5:50 pm

A good swell hit the coast last couple of days. Yesterday went with some friends on a spot that doesn't usually works, but had waves of about 3ft on the sets, and it's usually hollow there. At the beginning I was trying some line surfing, carving the lip. Almost scored a good floater, but it was a last second decision and I couldn't turn the board to the shore in enough time, so I landed sideways and didn't manage to complete it. After a while it started getting hollower with many closeouts, so I got into my mental mode where I mostly ignore any other maneuver I could try in those quick waves except tucking myself in and getting smashed inside the tubes. Didn't ride out of any, but got plummered inside a few.

Today I thought it was going to get bigger, so I'd do my work on improving wave size tolerance and surf my home spot that has a bit mushier wave but that receives the full size swell. But in the end it actually got a little bit smaller. It was around 4ft, maybe a bit bigger on sets. Had a few good ones, a very cool f/s roundhouse cutback. Tried my friends board, which is the smallest I've ever tried (5'7"), but for now I keep my opinion that 6'0" is a magical number.. With his board I wiped out two waves: nose dive on first, probably because it has less rocker than mine, and a lame drop where it got more loose than I expected and I failed hard. And I got two waves right, I rode the line and attacked the closing section on both. It felt very loose and fast, probably good for building speed and making quick maneuvers (maybe it throws some more spray because of that?), but I think it would cost me the stability I get on some critical drops I like to risk with my own board. Or maybe it's just that I'm not used to it, who knows?
User avatar
IanCaio
Local Hero
 
Posts: 478
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:08 pm

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Oct 24, 2017 9:54 pm

I think when taking steep drops stability isn't much of an issue but it is once you get to the bottom. Less stability is something you can get used to. I don't think of it as less stable I think of it as quicker to turn.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:38 pm

I went out today after being off last week because I was at Waikiki for a seminar. I intended to surf there but just couldn't get up early enough (if there were bigger waves I wold have found a way). It was knee to waist high and nice conditions. Yesterday I was stopped by work and the water was very brown due to heavy rains and the waves weren't too good. If there were only two of those three reasons to not surf I would have found a way to go. Today it was slightly brown and the waves weren't very good but they were almost head high maybe even bigger in the middle part where i usually go. The heavy rain has sculptured a sand bar but the swell was wrong for it, The only part that looked good had a branch sticking out of the water indicating a good sized log underwater so I went over to the reef on the left side of the bay and it had the cleanest water and waves that looked fun. My first wave I fell over on the bottom turn something I rarely do except for small warbley backside waves. I think it was because I still have the board set up as a thruster and I hadn't been surfing it for a while so reverted to my technique for a quad which is what I am really used to. Anyway it was good to be back in the ocean and I got a good workout and getting caught inside a by a bunch of waves had lots of duck dipping practice. When I came in there was a bunch of leaf litter right at the shore and i was covered with it from my waist down. The whole beach had logs and branches all over from the heavy rains washing them out the river and into the bay. When I left it looked like there was another individual about to go out.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby dtc » Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:34 pm

oldmansurfer wrote: When I came in there was a bunch of leaf litter right at the shore and i was covered with it from my waist down.


Swamp monster!
dtc
Surf God
 
Posts: 3833
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 4:58 am

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby BoMan » Tue Nov 07, 2017 6:09 pm

oldmansurfer wrote: Not conditions for the faint of heart.
IMG_1211.JPG

I love seeing photos with your posts. I'm going out Friday and will add a shot or two to mine. :)
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
User avatar
BoMan
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1464
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:19 am
Location: Napa Valley, USA

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:37 pm

Makes you appreciate the waves you get over there? :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8194
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

PreviousNext

Similar topics

Return to Surf Chat