by Beginner77 » Tue Oct 03, 2017 2:30 pm
by oldmansurfer » Wed Oct 04, 2017 12:28 am
Beginner77 wrote:I think 'failure' is an odd term. At my age I'm not aiming to get into competitions or impress women. My aim with learning to surf is simply to have fun and get satisfaction from learning, which are things I've had a resounding success at. Failure is only in the mind of the observer and their self created expectations.
by Beginner77 » Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:30 am
oldmansurfer wrote:Beginner77 wrote:I think 'failure' is an odd term. At my age I'm not aiming to get into competitions or impress women. My aim with learning to surf is simply to have fun and get satisfaction from learning, which are things I've had a resounding success at. Failure is only in the mind of the observer and their self created expectations.
That might be but I am certain there are things you wish to do like: catch a wave, stand up on the board, ride the wave, make some turns but maybe not. You set your own goals in surfing but once you do then you may fail until you succeed.
by oldmansurfer » Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:25 pm
by Beginner77 » Wed Oct 04, 2017 7:55 pm
by dtc » Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:02 am
by oldmansurfer » Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:22 am
by HyrdoDoc » Sat Oct 07, 2017 1:11 pm
by Big H » Sat Oct 07, 2017 2:33 pm
HyrdoDoc wrote:Having lived a block from a well known point break in Montauk Point, NY, I surfed every summer day from maybe 13 to 19 years of age on a variety of boards. Now at 52, I took out the old foamie from the garage and gave it a try. First time in 35 years. The big question was, would I need to totally relearn? Exhausting! Amazingly, I was able to pop up and stand on every wave I caught. I guess it's like riding a bike. Anyways, I've just bought a Walden Mega Magic 8ft high volume mini-mal. I've been out twice on the original Morey Doyle foamie, and 3 or 4 times now on the Walden. I've noticed that the problem with "getting back in" at this stage isn't so much the legs as it is the arms. That and overall lack of stamina. I'm not a gym rat and don't enjoy high intensity exercise on a regular basis like some I see jogging down the road with pain on their faces and their arms contorted. I find paddling out in the rolling surf exhausts me leaving me rather spent by the time I'm out in the lineup. That's been a limiting factor. It's been great fun going down the line on flatter days where we wait for proper sets. This morning, however, was one of those days I find it far more difficult. The waves were not at all large, but the almost constant beach break and 3-4ft rollers would push me back almost as far as I began. No good spots to paddle out today as low tide brings those conditions. Anyways, I made the best of it and practiced on the leftovers using whatever leftovers in the energy department I could muster. What have I learned? You don't lose your pop-up skills over time but you surely do lose your arms. Ironically, I suppose the best exercises for paddling is well.. paddling. Of course, at my age, sitting on a board, feeling the familiar ebb and flow of the sea, and regarding the fine line between sea and sky is its own reward. Ah, to be part of it again. How I've missed it.
Cheers,
Doc
by dblang » Sat Nov 18, 2017 3:40 pm
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