riding question

[DanJS14]

okay okay... so last weekend there were like 3-4 foot waves and I rode those in on my 9' longboard without a problem (but I could only ride directly towards the shore). How big do the waves have to be to ride them sideways? Do you ride sideways after they break, because the waves crash so early it seems impossible to ride sideways.

- Thanks

[ghost_who_surfs]

Dan sounds like the waves were doing what we call closing out, which essentially means they have no shape to allow you to ride the face or run out of shape very quickly.

This type of wave is caused by poorly formed sand banks on beach breaks. Sometimes you have enough time to quickly pull in, tuck up and get smashed as it closes out which can be fun or not depending on how hard you get smashed, otherwise it's go straight.

I'd be looking for waves with better shape that peel or crumble allowing you to ride the face.

[siqnic]

Dan, Ghost has a good point! The waves you were riding are closed out and this makes it hard to pull off any bottom turns to travel down the line. It is possible though. Just plane your board out and speed up infront of the white wash and turn your board wich ever way looks best. A closed out wave is actualy caused by a "broad on the beach" swell. this means that the swell is breaking perfectly at a 90 degree angle(directly head on)with the beach or sand bar. For a wave to peal it needs to break at a slight angle on the bar itself.

[oneil_surfer]

yeah i used to live in mexico and some times (most of the time) waves would be um pretty much hella hards to surf em, but i say go deeper into the beach mabe you are to close to the beach some times there is better more sofisticated waves further away from the beach.