Later in life beginners

[BoMan]

Actually my good intention for 2017 is to not tire myself too much on good sessions. When the conditions are great I just cannot stop, until I really cannot paddle out again. The recovery time and risk of injury is just too big after that, it kills the frequency!

I live an hour and a half from the coast which limits my surfing to twice a month and solves the injury problem at least for now. I'm 65 and usually ride for 2 hours, take a lunch break then go back for another 2 hours. Swimming in a pool between sessions really helps with paddle fitness as long as I don't try to compete with the 13 year old girls who always kick my butt! My long, high volume board also helps with catching waves, popping up, and riding all the way into shore. My good intention is keep surfing into my 80's!

[oldmansurfer]

I just met a guy who was 72 and still surfs double (maybe up to triple) overhead tubing waves. He rides a 9'6" board he shaped himself . He was famous for riding pipeline long ago. He is credited with being the first guy to get tubed riding backside at pipeline and being the first to use the rail grab backside stance. In my imagination by the time I am 72 I will have progressed to rail grab backside tube rides. Reality is probably more like grabbing my flabby belly riding backside on mush.

[Tudeo]

I'm 65 and usually ride for 2 hours, take a lunch break then go back for another 2 hours.

Wow! I hope I can do that when I'm 65.

For me the key is moderation, pelan pelan. I must make a continues effort to keep it nice and easy because my nature is to let it all go. I'm 54 now, and if I paddle too hard I must pay the price.

Smart surfing, choosing the right board and the right spot/time/day, good positioning and most important wave selection! Not spoil your energy on a wave that isn't worth it.

I still make mistakes of course, the worse is when a wave looks good so you paddle for it but then doesn't steepen enough so you can get in. A real smart surfer would see this in advance and would let that wave go. But I sometimes get fooled and let adrenaline take over and paddle like crazy, just to lose the wave and a lot of energy and later must give my muscles a couple of days to recover from the impact.

[oldmansurfer]

I think the surfer who never paddles for and misses a wave misses lots of waves that they could have paddled for and caught but perhaps this is ok for them. Certainly in crowded lineups you don't want to paddle and miss. I met a guy yesterday who surfed to relax. He wants relaxing waves, just cruising along without having to work. I may paddle for waves I miss but then I only surf for 30 minutes at a shot so I don't really have to worry about overuse injuries and generally I am alone in the lineup

[Tudeo]

I had a great session this evening, with a lot of beautifull waves. Stoked. But the first 3 waves I missed.. I was out of the water for 6 days, and I was misjudging the first few waves. Also my last session was on my 6'2" on a different spot, with a very different wave, this session I used my 8'2" Submoon (funshape). The way to getting into waves is so completely different, I struggled at first. But after a few waves it clicked and I had a great session.

[Nickk2017]

hi
This doesn’t have much to do with the actual riding of a wave, but if you shuffle your feet while walking in and out of the water, your chances of getting hit by a stingray are drastically reduced.

Ask anyone: The pain of a stingray barb going through your foot is enough to make a grown man cry — and definitely enough to cut your surf session short.


Expressive Therapy For Depression

[jaffa1949]

Most surfers are not depressed when they are surfing ,if they are hit by a stingray they are angry and in pain.
And if they are later lifestarters they may well shuffle down the beach.
Steve Irwin salutes you!

[Imperialaussie]

Hey guys,

So glad to have started surfing and love to hear others starting later in life. I am 34 years old and been surfing for about 6 weeks all together about 4 days a week. I started on a 6 foot 1 short board but then bought a 6 foot 7 shortboard which has made it way better to learn. Some days I surf for 2-3 hours straight I am that addicted. I suffer from a spinal disorder which is like inflammation in all my joints that come and go and has taken away my sporting career. pretty much surf in pain but seems to make me feel better anyway or make my flare ups go away faster. I use to be very athletic and even bodyboarded for years when I was 13-18.

Had to take a month off recently because of Costochondritis(rib pain) after starting surfing (4 weeks solid) . Recently I bought the paddle air rash shirt which made it possible for me to surf again. I can catch the wave pop up and go right handers pretty good and left handers not as good. caught a 5 foot solid set thinking I wouldn't make it and I did hahaha. Was the best feeling to get belted 10 times then finally make the biggest drop of my life. Glad after I got sick 7 years ago, I am able to do something again which I love. It is very challenging too and makes me so so happy/relaxed.

now after about 6 weeks of solid surfing I can pop up real quick and have gained 10kg of muscle lol. People commented on how good I look which is a bonus. I noticed I also have bad days where I cant stay up for long. then other days my feet plant perfect and go across the wave. Was the best feeling when I first did my bottom hand turn. feeling that rail dig in and spray come off the board. I was wondering is it normal to be able to surf better some days then other days I feel like I am even shitter than the day before . I get frustrated because the day before I was popping up real good and then the next day I just get my feet wrong or lose balance. I wonder if the waves are easier to ride some days. I am so pumped about surfing and hope my injuries from my autoimmune stay away. I recently moved 10 minutes from the beach a few months ago. I never really planned it but now I wake up at 6:30 and go for a surf before work. I go to the beach every day on the weekend. My girlfriend is complaining a bit because I am obsessed . Shes cool though as she will come down and watch me sometimes and even take photos. She is scared of waves and will not surf which is a shame. I am so glad to have surfed even though I seem to get injured a lot. I was depressed when I couldnt surf for that month. I just love it

[saltyridersco]

Hi all,

So good to see how many people are getting stoked on learning to surf as they get older! I started surfing a few years ago as an adult and haven't looked back. If i can give any advice it is to keep on trying and don't give up. It may sound corny, but a lot of people. especially those who are older, will blame their inability to learn on their age. This is not at all true. Learning to surf at any age is hard but what sets the surfers to the non surfers apart is their commitment to learning.

I first learnt to surf with a group of friends and out of all of us, I am the only person who ended up progressing. It was not because I was any better physically, but because I was more persistent and didn't throw in the towel when it seemed too hard (which it does at times!). Now I surf frequently and have even travelled to places like the Philippines to chase waves. I love it!

Keep surfing people - the reward is so worth the effort!

[Beginner77]

I'm 40 and had my first surf lesson about a year ago and am really enjoying learning. The reason for waiting this long was simply that I had a fear of the water. I couldn't walk along a canal tow path or sit by a swimming pool without getting extremely nervous, and this particularly extended to waves; I couldn't even paddle in the sea if there were waves. So about six years ago I decided to try and get over my fear. It took many years and I lost about 10kg in weight doing so, but finally now I'm learning to surf, and I windsurf and SUP regularly as well as scuba dive most years. It's not a complete fix and there are still things I'm scared of; boats for example (I really struggle on dive boats, even though I enjoy diving) and also noisy swimming pools, which I avoid. I'm really enjoying all the new sports it's opened up for me though, including surfing!

[jaffa1949]

Definitely worth a woot , facing your fears and bit by bit overcoming them. Great stuff , bravo

[GoofyJess]

I'm an advanced age beginner as well! Almost 40 and just started taking lessons this summer. It's something I've wanted to do since I was a kid; just never thought an awkward nerd like me could pull it off. I guess I was a late bloomer as I only took up running when I turned thirty and now have done a number of marathons and then started biking and have done about 5 triathlons (Olympic distance) although initially I was terrified of learning to ride clipped in and it took a while to get comfortable. I also just hiked up to the tallest peak in Costa Rica this summer, which is something my younger self never thought to do. So all that to say; my life has only gotten more adventurous, fun, and athletic since turning 30 and I think it's keeping many of us young at heart even as we get clobbered by our board or get rolled around in the surf just trying to paddle out. I know I'm a total newbie and I would never dare call myself a surfer yet but it makes me feel like a kid again and I love it.

[WestTexSurf]

I started surfing this year at 35 years old. I used to carve up transitions while skating for hours daily when I was younger. I've considered snowboarding before, but never surfing until now.

I'm not sure what changed my mind. I think It was seeing videos my buddy shared on facebook of "monster" waves that people were surfing. Freaking amazed me. My wife won a trip to Jaco, Costa Rica in April of this year, and we decided to give surfing a go. Best decision EVER!

We had 2 lessons in Costa Rica, and I took one in South Padre, Texas. Ocean surfing is going to be a twice a year thing for us I think (coast is 8 hours away), but BSR Cable Park is building a surf lake in Waco which is only 3 hours away with a supposed 6 ft wave. It won't be the same as ocean surfing, but hopefully the park will be worth the trip and I can keep pursuing surfing as a sport!

[Oldie]

I had a session today that I will remember.

Having started two years ago at 49, and with the nearest beach being the dumpy windswell North Sea (Dutch coast) 250km away, most of our surfing has to happen during vacation, so progress is there, but slow. Since last summer, i was getting more comfortable at catching and surfing green waves, mostly going down the line with small turns, in calm conditions with max 4ft. I always struggled in bigger waves, either with even getting out or with being to scared to take them.

Today was our last day of vacation with the forecast at 4-6ft, and i really wanted to take the opportunity for a last session. When I came to the beach, we had a 15mph cross onshore wind, increased in gusts due to rainshowers, so the sea looked not very inviting and there where huge sets rolling in. Getting out was already strenous, but keeping position even more due to a strong current. Sitting with very few people in the slightly chaotic lineup, i wondered wether it was worth the effort. But then I took of on a wave that got bigger and bigger as it approached, but it looked like a cleaner wall then the others. I made the popup and for the first time in my life when riding down the line I looked at a lip that was above my eyeline, it was an incrdibly fast and long ride and terrific experience. I was so stoked I stayed in the water for two hours, got a few other very nice rides, and was both incredibly happy and exhausted. I want more of this! But it is back to the Dutch coast, where a good day is 2-3ft at 6s with onshore wind.

[kookRachelle]

I'm 36 and have been surfing about 6 weeks. I actually took a couple of lessons last year which got me hooked but then an injury (non surfing related) had me out for 4 months and I decided to take it up again this year. I'm 45 minutes from my local beach and get out 3x a week. I just bought my own board that I'm in love with. I'm totally obsessed and find that others are either in love or indifferent. I think I'm so fortunate to be obsessed with this beautiful sport. I am a calamity and injure myself so much. I am used to land sports - running, biking, etc. but am a strong swimmer and used to compete on a team. I'm not particularly good at any of my hobbies but I do what I enjoy. I love the water so much but never considered riding it until last summer when my husband wanted to take a lesson and I tagged along. I don't really consider myself that athletic, nor am I any good at surfing. I didn't even get into swim/bike/run (triathlons) until I was 30. I'm now 36 and fully expect it to take me at least 2-3 more years to even feel like a proper surfer who can go down the line.

This thread really helped me feel not so pathetic so I wanted to share.

[CaptainKook]

I'm 52 and started last year with my son 12. We took a lesson and got hooked. So I bought two wavestorms 8 footers and a 9 foot x28" small SUP foamy. This year me, my son and daughter have been getting out quite a bit, even had the whole fam damily of 5 out once, not an easy logistical task. I enjoy long boarding the SUP (cheating) so do the kids, it's sooooo darn easy. I get crazy and often try for too many waves and wear out, but can take a break and switch to standup as well. After a really long day I'll pay the price and be sore as heck for 2-3 days after but that's not so bad. I see lots of guys older than me out every time we go. Hope to go on another 20 years.

[Big H]

I'm 36 and have been surfing about 6 weeks. I actually took a couple of lessons last year which got me hooked but then an injury (non surfing related) had me out for 4 months and I decided to take it up again this year. I'm 45 minutes from my local beach and get out 3x a week. I just bought my own board that I'm in love with. I'm totally obsessed and find that others are either in love or indifferent. I think I'm so fortunate to be obsessed with this beautiful sport. I am a calamity and injure myself so much. I am used to land sports - running, biking, etc. but am a strong swimmer and used to compete on a team. I'm not particularly good at any of my hobbies but I do what I enjoy. I love the water so much but never considered riding it until last summer when my husband wanted to take a lesson and I tagged along. I don't really consider myself that athletic, nor am I any good at surfing. I didn't even get into swim/bike/run (triathlons) until I was 30. I'm now 36 and fully expect it to take me at least 2-3 more years to even feel like a proper surfer who can go down the line.

This thread really helped me feel not so pathetic so I wanted to share.

FWIW it took me about 300h surfing time in the water before I was able to "feel like a proper surfer who can go down the line." This is not easy, this surfing thing....this morning I had issues at my home break sorting out positioning as the swell was dropping but the secondary swell was holding up and the good peaks shifted....my usual lineups weren't working and I had to start from scratch.....all of that and just having a bad day was probably 50-50.

Hang in there...it does get better. And always work on your paddle - form, strength, stamina, shoulder range of motion and flexibility.....will make a difference.

[BoMan]

This inspires me to be a better husband, father, teacher and citizen.

(It’s Great to) Suck at Something By Karen Rinaldi

In the sport of (Hawaiian) kings, I’m a jester. In surfing parlance, a “kook.” I fall and flail. I get hit on the head by my own board. I run out of breath when held down by a four-foot wave. I wimp out when the waves get overhead and I paddle back to shore. When I do catch a wave, I’m rarely graceful. On those rare occasions when I manage a decent drop, turn and trim, I usually blow it by celebrating with a fist pump or a hoot.

Maybe sucking at something where the stakes are low can lead us to a better place. Seeing ourselves repeatedly doing something we suck at — no matter how trivial — might make us a bit more sympathetic to how hard so many things really are: trying to navigate health issues, listening to our neighbors, improving the economy or mitigating relations with hostile nations.

By exposing ourselves to the experience of trying and failing we might develop more empathy. If we succeed in shifting from snap judgments to patience, maybe we could be a little more helpful to one another — and a whole lot more understanding.

If we accept our failures and persevere nonetheless, we might find acceptance in trying. Failing is O.K. Better still, isn’t it a relief? Or, as the great father of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, wisely advised: “Be patient. Wave come. Wave always come.

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/04/28/opinion/its-great-to-suck-at-surfing.html?mcubz=1

[oldmansurfer]

It's not so much failing as accepting your own failures which allows you to accept the failures of those around you who fail. Those aggro-nazi surfers have no place for failure in themselves as well as anyone else (so they need excuses when they fail)

[Tudeo]

This inspires me to be a better husband, father, teacher and citizen.

(It’s Great to) Suck at Something By Karen Rinaldi

Blessed are the meek: for they shall ride the wave..