4 inch length drop

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4 inch length drop

Postby Onelove » Tue Aug 01, 2017 2:31 am

Hey all!

A few weeks ago I went ahead and ordered a new thruster. It's my 2nd "shortboard".

The board is the exact same model shaped by same shaper. It is a 6'5 when my previous was 6'9. Slightly thinner and narrower.

My first 2 days out with it we had a rare summer east coast nor'easter getting overhead. Tons of chop, 15-25 knots, but plenty of juice and clean on the faces . Took 10-15 duck dives to get outside. Was pretty gassed by the time I made it out back each time.

. I was able to catch some nice rides, and saw progress with duck diving, but also faced frustration. I figure it was a combination of learning something new and smaller than anything I have surfed, a big swell I haven't seen in months, and a horrible rash because I had to put monkey wax on the board. I'm just negative right now . Convince me my experience is not surprising or anything to be discouraged about please.

I can't wait to try it in clean 3-4 foot with decent periods and calm winds. Also going to put it on flat water and just paddle asap. And for god sake get the monkey wax off.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby Onelove » Tue Aug 01, 2017 2:32 am

Oh, I was pretty proficient riding the 6'9 version. Will 4 inches really distort things that much?
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Aug 01, 2017 2:55 am

for pro surfers 4 inches is a big thing so I guess for less experienced an even bigger thing. There is more than length that goes into a board but same shaper same model should be the least amount of difference. I don't surf those really short boards but I figure since someone else will ask what exactly do you mean by proficient? I know it doesn't mean you can do airs and 360s but what exactly can you do? The other question is what do you mean by frustration? What was it that frustrated you?
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby IB_Surfer » Tue Aug 01, 2017 3:30 am

Look at your fin setup. For some reason, my 6'5 step up felt really draggy with size M fins. I bought some DHD fins which are just slightly smaller and it made a huge difference. I also tried size S but they slipped a little too much for my weight.

What kind of fins do you have on there?
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby Onelove » Tue Aug 01, 2017 3:34 am

Proficient: make the drop on many different types of waves, top turn, bottom turn , cut back, control board through process, etc. still make plenty of mistakes, but I can surf the 6'9 well enough to have a lot of fun.

I think ultimately I was frustrated because I was missing waves, and just kind of clumsy on the board. Sinking the nose, losing balance while sitting on it, and dealing with rash, chop , and soreness in general from oversurfing.

I think I'm kind of being a bitch to be honest. Just feeling a negative vibe. Didn't have fun like I have had the last 30 sessions or so, but also concerned I may have made a mistake changing length.

FWIW, board was cut down like 1/16 inch on thickness, and 1/2 inch width. Same proportional rockers, foil,etc.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby Onelove » Tue Aug 01, 2017 3:38 am

IB_Surfer wrote:Look at your fin setup. For some reason, my 6'5 step up felt really draggy with size M fins. I bought some DHD fins which are just slightly smaller and it made a huge difference. I also tried size S but they slipped a little too much for my weight.

What kind of fins do you have on there?


Good thought. I went with futures on this board, had Fcs on other. Both thruster setups. I'm going to take a look at that. A Nor'easter is tough to use as a barometer, but it's all I got right now.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby dtc » Tue Aug 01, 2017 5:12 am

first surf on a board, of course its going to be messy. Heck, for me every second surf turns into bambi on ice (Hi IB surfer, hows things?) even though I'm on the same board.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby waikikikichan » Tue Aug 01, 2017 9:21 am

Onelove wrote:A few weeks ago I went ahead and ordered a new thruster. It's my 2nd "shortboard".
The board is the exact same model shaped by same shaper. It is a 6'5 when my previous was 6'9. Slightly thinner and narrower.

YOU ordered a new board from the same shaper that made your first board. YOU talked and discussed with him your desires and thoughts for the new board right ? Or did you say " Just make it 4 inches shorter, thinner and narrower " and he blindly followed what you said. He is the shaper, he's suppose to guide you to what he thinks will work for you. So why ask us ? He knows you better. Right ?
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby Onelove » Tue Aug 01, 2017 1:01 pm

waikikikichan wrote:
Onelove wrote:A few weeks ago I went ahead and ordered a new thruster. It's my 2nd "shortboard".
The board is the exact same model shaped by same shaper. It is a 6'5 when my previous was 6'9. Slightly thinner and narrower.

YOU ordered a new board from the same shaper that made your first board. YOU talked and discussed with him your desires and thoughts for the new board right ? Or did you say " Just make it 4 inches shorter, thinner and narrower " and he blindly followed what you said. He is the shaper, he's suppose to guide you to what he thinks will work for you. So why ask us ? He knows you better. Right ?


Yes, we did all that. I was asking about experiences of others when they get on new boards, seeing if that was similar to my experience past 2 days. It wasn't longboard or funshape to shortboard, it was a minimal change and I didn't find a ton of topics matching up with my question/discussion point.

I have not seen my shaper since I picked the board up 3 days ago. I decided to ask this not very important question/ have the discussion here because there is a forum labeled surf chat.

I asked the question here simply to gain more perspective at a place I thought was appropriate to do so. I have read forum for a long time and it is usually encouraging.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby Big H » Tue Aug 01, 2017 3:39 pm

I had a 7' big boy shortboard for a bit that was 3" thick and paddled like a pig, even after changing the fins....had a 6'8" that was 2.5" thick after that and that board paddled much easier and I liked that board a lot more and found it a better fit...was an easier board to ride and felt better paddling and on the wave. Different rockers, different planshapes; would think the bigger board would be easier to ride...

Conversely, I have been out on different days on the some board and have felt that it was a pig in a the water one day and been worn out and on a different day the board felt good.....
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Aug 01, 2017 5:10 pm

Onelove wrote:Proficient: make the drop on many different types of waves, top turn, bottom turn , cut back, control board through process, etc. still make plenty of mistakes, but I can surf the 6'9 well enough to have a lot of fun.

Haha well you are actually proficient but often we hear that and what they mean is the can ride whitewater to the beach
I think ultimately I was frustrated because I was missing waves, and just kind of clumsy on the board. Sinking the nose, losing balance while sitting on it, and dealing with rash, chop , and soreness in general from oversurfing.

Well it's a new board and they often take a little getting used to
I think I'm kind of being a bitch to be honest. Just feeling a negative vibe. Didn't have fun like I have had the last 30 sessions or so, but also concerned I may have made a mistake changing length.

I think we need to get used to someone just wanting to bitch out their negative vibe :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby waikikikichan » Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:29 pm

Onelove wrote: It wasn't longboard or funshape to shortboard, it was a minimal change and I didn't find a ton of topics matching up with my question/discussion point.

In the bigger board categories, 6 inches is okay jump. Shortboards usually 1-2 inches. But your 6'9" might be in the hybrid ,so ...... 2-3 inches, that if you were solid in Paddling and Maneuvers. 4 inches is too much especially with going narrower and thinner. Normally you go shorter and hide the volume in the thickness or width.

Onelove wrote:I have not seen my shaper since I picked the board up 3 days ago. I decided to ask this not very important question/ have the discussion here because there is a forum labeled surf chat.

Probably you are just going to "Buyer's Remorse" and having "2nd thoughts" about what you decided on. Try it again in better conditions and see. The reason why you don't see much info on going down 4 inches on a shortboard is because it's NOT a common thing to do. But it's good that now there is a topic others can refer to if they want to drop down 4 inches.

Onelove wrote:I asked the question here simply to gain more perspective at a place I thought was appropriate to do so. I have read forum for a long time and it is usually encouraging.

Yes, and I ALSO asked you a question to gain more perspective on your situation so I can give my thoughts and advice knowing better what is going on with you and your shaper. So it's good you asked here.

Question: What model FCS fins were you using on the 6'9" ? And what model Futures fins are you using on the 6'5" ?
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby Onelove » Tue Aug 01, 2017 11:53 pm

A little better day 3. The duck dive improvement is major. Gaining speed is my current biggest issue, and I have been in the wrong spot laying on board repeatedly when I started power paddling to catch the wave. I don't feel as negative at all. I just hated missing fun waves, and I can confirm I was being a bitch. It will be worth it in a few weeks when hurricane season rolls into play.

Thank you all for the responses.
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Re: 4 inch length drop

Postby IB_Surfer » Wed Aug 02, 2017 4:56 am

Onelove wrote:
IB_Surfer wrote:Look at your fin setup. For some reason, my 6'5 step up felt really draggy with size M fins. I bought some DHD fins which are just slightly smaller and it made a huge difference. I also tried size S but they slipped a little too much for my weight.

What kind of fins do you have on there?


Good thought. I went with futures on this board, had Fcs on other. Both thruster setups. I'm going to take a look at that. A Nor'easter is tough to use as a barometer, but it's all I got right now.


For Futures I can tell you I did not like AM or AM2's, the Lost fins are a tiny big bigger than size medium but have less rake and are less canted, so to me they paddled better.
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