Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Beginner77 » Wed Mar 16, 2016 9:36 pm

Thank you very much for taking the time to write that - very helpful.

I must confess that as a beginner 9 worries me! I do a lot of different sports but I've not really known one where you can get into an argument or even a fight for breaking rules or simply turning up somewhere new. As someone who despises confrontation that's quite daunting! I guess the way round it is to read posts like yours and learn, but it does put me off surfing, I confess.

I'm new to surfing, but not to watersports, and one thing I'd add to #1 'wetsuit choice' is your own personal tolerance for the cold and the fact that everyone experiences the cold differently. For example, I use a 'winter' (5/3 or 5/4) wetsuit in the middle of summer on the south coast and am completely comfortable and not in the slightest bit warm. Asking people at my usual spots for advice and they'd say a 3/2 for July to October, but I know that I, and plenty of people I know, would freeze in such a suit and end up with cramp or uncontrollable shivering etc. The other thing worth noting is the other features of a suit that make it warm (stitching, sealed seams, fit, material, zip type etc). Whilst I use a winter suit in summer I do actually do watersports right up until Christmas and start again in April, purely by swapping to another 5/4 that's much higher quality, which I regard as my 'winter' suit.
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby bigessaywriter » Wed Jul 13, 2016 12:02 pm

I would want to learn how to surf yeah and many more. I like articles with 10 things and stuff like that one should know. Thank you very much.
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby jaycee » Mon May 08, 2017 11:13 pm

No one has the right to a certain break over others, no one has the place to claim 'their spot' in nature, regardless if they're local or visiting. We are all guest in the ocean.

For someone to destroy your property because of a fit they're having over the inability to recognize they too were once beginners or visitors, is sad. Of course be respectful when in the line up or in a new environment, but never feel as if you need to grovel to someone because they are better at an activity than you.
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Big H » Tue May 09, 2017 1:52 am

At the same time, beginners that are still learning should stay clear of more experienced surfers, especially on paddles back out after falling since that generally will place that beginner right in the line of fire....I mentioned that I saw a few collisions the other day when it was particularly crowded....main issue that I saw were beginners wallowing in the flats....either hanging out there trying to catch a wave/whitewater or just lolling around catching their breath and regrouping after falling down.....problem is that they were unaware that they were directly on the line of everyone on the peak.....and I saw a few get run down over the course of my session. Sure they have the "right" to be in the ocean, but kooking up the lineup ruins their day and the day of the person that ran them over.

I agree that more experienced surfers should practice tolerance over aggro demonstrations....doesn't always work out that way though in the real world. I also agree that beginners need to do their best to understand the so called unwritten rules of the lineup as well as the clearly defined ones. Everyone was a beginner once, but as a beginner respect should be shown when entering a lineup top heavy with locals that have surfed the spot for years. It's common sense and basic courtesy....newcomers do not tramp through the front door and push to sit at the head of the table in any social situation that I can think of.

BTW, unwritten rules in better lineups can be that if you paddle for a wave and miss it you will be dropped in on since you wasted a wave and have demonstrated that you will potentially miss other waves. Crowded lineups like the one I was in yesterday had 30+ within 50m of each other gunning for three or four decent waves every five minutes or so....of those three or four waves, half were rights, the others lefts which leaves a good percentage of the lineup that won't surf on their backhand fighting for one or two waves every five minutes.

Unfortunately if you get into a competitive lineup and aren't at the level of the rest you will be effectively sidelined......so when speaking about respect, beginners need to respect the relative ability of the lineup and not ruin a peak for the rest which is entirely possible should a beginner paddle for every wave, stand and fall, only ride straight, constantly drop in since looking side to side when paddling and hitting the breaks should someone catch deeper is beyond their ability, or turn into the curl and collide with someone deeper riding the wave in the correct direction. I was on a wave yesterday, took off deepest and yelled two off the wave that dropped in on me....I made the first section then when bottom turning around whitewater that had engulfed one of those who dropped in trying for the next section a board exploded out of the whitewater and hit my leg knocking me off my board......guy dropped in on me, wiped out, board shot out of the mess crazy and tagged me. Ruined my wave, ended my session early and my leg still hurts. I did not get upset; the spot was covered in beginners so while the wave was beyond most of their ability, the environment was for them and my choice to surf amongst them entailed knowing that I would have to deal with these kinds of kookalicous acts also known as building experience.

Bottom line; if the wave on that day is beyond your ability, if the lineup skill level is noticeably above your own, if you are by far the least skilled in the water and if you have not gotten to the level that you can control your board while paddling, getting into a wave, while riding and when ending your ride and if you can't catch almost all the waves you paddle for you need to learn to develop these skills in an environment of those of a similar level.......insisting to join a skilled lineup and work on these basics is an inconsideration to those more experienced who are already fighting with each other for a handful of waves, and one way or another, either via direct confrontation or with more subtlety such as blocking you off, dropping in, fading you on takeoffs, back paddling you or just blazing by and dumping you when you drop in on them......one way or another they will let you know where you belong. That's surfing,,,,,
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue May 09, 2017 8:46 pm

In theory no one owns the waves but if you count on that theory in real life you will be sadly disapointed
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Tudeo » Wed May 10, 2017 1:57 am

Big H wrote:... beginners that are still learning should stay clear of more experienced surfers...

I agree.

But in Bali the commercial component is too strong to respect that. Surfing is only bussines to most entrepreneurs.. So at all the quality waves surfcamps/schools/guides are doing there bussines by bringing as much as possible surfers (often inexperienced and beginners) to the lineup.

Nobody seems to care about teaching ettiquete, because that only makes it more difficult for the customers to take waves. Some coaches (many it seems to me) simply push their client into the first available wave, even if another surer is already riding that wave. I don't think this learner will be very aware about priority rules next time he goes out on his own to that same quality wave next his hotel..

It's mainly hard for the intermediate surfers I think, cos the advanced guys will always find their waves and beginners are already stoked riding a closeout to the beach. But the intermediate that's looking for a better wave/ride has a hard time dealing with all the speed bumps, that always seem to paddle in their bottom turns.
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby waikikikichan » Wed May 10, 2017 3:11 am

jaycee wrote:No one has the right to a certain break over others, no one has the place to claim 'their spot' in nature, regardless if they're local or visiting. We are all guest in the ocean.

Agreed, no one "Owns" the break. BUT........ there is "Priority". There are rules to follow for safety and fun "for all".
Jaycee, next time we're at the Bank or Supermarket check out line, would you mind if I cut in line ? Not even ask for your permission, just bump your cart over. Is that proper ? Would you be happy having waited for a very longtime ?

But yes, there are etiquette and manners, I may have waited for a seat on the bus or train but give it up for the elderly or expectant mother. Beginner / Newbies taking Lesson sometimes get a "pass" since they oblivious to the rules ( but that's in the beginner area/break ). Once you move to the advance area, you're suppose to know.

I once got dropped in by a tourist who ran into me. I told him what he did was dangerous. He replied "well, you already caught 10 waves to my one". Well let's look at the situation:
1) He was a beginner at the more advanced break next to the beginner break
2) He was on a softop rental board at a break that rental stands warn them not to go to.
3) He was way on the inside and on the shoulder.
4) He was not fit and didn't have a good paddle.
5) He said he really waited a longtime and wanted to catch a wave. ( but was no where near the lineup )
5) The waves starts slow and break fast on the inside, so it's hard to get off. While the beginner break breaks fast then slows on the inside.
Is it my fault, after surfing that break for 20 years, I know exactly where to sit and where the waves will break ?
Is it my fault I stay fit, don't smoke, prepare my body and equipment ahead of time ?
Is it my fault I follow the pecking order in the line up and catch the wave that comes to me, without snaking or blocking ?
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Big H » Wed May 10, 2017 3:39 am

Tudeo wrote:
Big H wrote:
It's mainly hard for the intermediate surfers I think, cos the advanced guys will always find their waves and beginners are already stoked riding a closeout to the beach. But the intermediate that's looking for a better wave/ride has a hard time dealing with all the speed bumps, that always seem to paddle in their bottom turns.

The story of my life at the moment.... :)
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby waikikikichan » Wed May 10, 2017 3:55 am

Tudeo wrote:It's mainly hard for the intermediate surfers I think, cos the advanced guys will always find their waves and beginners are already stoked riding a closeout to the beach. But the intermediate that's looking for a better wave/ride has a hard time dealing with all the speed bumps, that always seem to paddle in their bottom turns.

Big H wrote:The story of my life at the moment.... :)

Use the beginners to your advantage if possible. At a crowded line up breaking Right, I look for a over zealous beginner with the leash on his Left foot and sit on his/her right shoulder. Then when a advance guy pumps up, I wait for the beginner to drop in straight, then I take a quick high line and get away from the collision. Yeeeee !
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Big H » Wed May 10, 2017 5:08 am

I actually have a technique now that there are so many guides....I will sit just inside a straight riding beginner with an instructor....we go for the same wave and they go straight, clear off anyone deeper and the wave is clear for me. :) This works especially well when being tailed by a pesky snake....the guy who continually back paddles two strokes deeper....you move and he does it again and again.....I'll sit 10 strokes away from a beginner and then paddle hard to them as the wave approaches....that way any snake on my tail has traffic to deal with going deeper and is blocked by the instructor and student.....like scraping something off your shoe.... :)
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Tudeo » Wed May 10, 2017 6:49 am

Lol, we all use the same methods, kind of. During warming up and paddle out, next to how the wave is breaking, I'm looking for beginners who are pushed in and go straight to the beach (in classic poo stance), so I can ignore them whitout problems on my inside :mrgreen:

But the good thing is, the more dialed in on a wave you get over time gives you the edge over most tourist surfers :wink:
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Big H » Wed May 10, 2017 10:29 am

Tudeo wrote:Lol, we all use the same methods, kind of. During warming up and paddle out, next to how the wave is breaking, I'm looking for beginners who are pushed in and go straight to the beach (in classic poo stance), so I can ignore them whitout problems on my inside :mrgreen:

But the good thing is, the more dialed in on a wave you get over time gives you the edge over most tourist surfers :wink:

That's one of my issues with guides....they take beginners and push them in at the very best entry point a lot of times.....sitting right on the peak with three "guests" pushing one after the other in every set.
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Tudeo » Wed May 10, 2017 11:51 am

Big H wrote:That's one of my issues with guides....they take beginners and push them in at the very best entry point a lot of times.....sitting right on the peak with three "guests" pushing one after the other in every set.

Jup, and sometimes they have some 'helpers' around to block the peak from people paddling for position :yearght:
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby jaffa1949 » Wed May 10, 2017 9:20 pm

Tudeo wrote:
Big H wrote:That's one of my issues with guides....they take beginners and push them in at the very best entry point a lot of times.....sitting right on the peak with three "guests" pushing one after the other in every set.

Jup, and sometimes they have some 'helpers' around to block the peak from people paddling for position :yearght:


That practice has spread to Lombok, boats " guides" and a conveyor belt of hapless learners come across the bay from Awang to Ekas.
Sometimes several are pushed onto the same wave quite close to each other. There will be a concussion an drowning death there soon. :shock:
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Tudeo » Thu May 11, 2017 12:52 am

jaffa1949 wrote:That practice has spread to Lombok, boats " guides" and a conveyor belt of hapless learners come across the bay from Awang to Ekas.
Sometimes several are pushed onto the same wave quite close to each other. There will be a concussion an drowning death there soon. :shock:


This 'commercial' aproach will be counter producive in the long term, because more and more people will avoid those bad vibes. But for the short term I only see it getting (much) worse, with so many new nations taking to surfing. Thousands of raw beginners from all over the world are dreaming of being pushed into their first real wave, and willing to pay serious Rupiahs for it..
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby dtc » Thu May 11, 2017 6:19 am

It is amazing how many non surfers (but wanna be) are convinced that Bali is the place to learn; that there are fantastic warm water waves totally suitable for a beginner. Whereas, yes, those waves exist; but those waves exist in many places (and often far closer to home, even if the water temp may not be quite as nice). The number of people I see on forums saying 'I have two weeks holiday and want to learn to surf, I'm going to Bali' is amazing. Even from the US, where Central America offers a much cheaper and closer option, or from Australia where you can find well, 1000s of km of surf.

Guess that is what Bali markets itself as providing, so its done very well. If a beginner was visiting Bali and wanted to surf, then add it on; but a beginner going to Bali expressly to learn to surf...only if you are from the frigid climes of Europe perhaps and wanted to enjoy the life of the Southern Hemisphere

Ok, I am overstating it a bit, but I think 'learning = Bali' isnt always the best first thought
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby LxS » Thu May 11, 2017 10:15 am

I agree, I think it's mainly a advertisement thing. At some point "Surfing in Bali" it's on everyone's bucket list, so why not already start there?
Have a few friends spread over Europe wanting to do exactly that, and my usual reply it's always "Why not Portugal?". Nothing that a 4/3 suit in the winter won't get you by, and there's a huge coastal line to pick a beach suited to your level! Plus, in the summer you even get by with shorts and maybe a rashguard. But I guess "I went surfing in Portugal" sounds way less sexier than "I went surfing in Indonesia".
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby Tudeo » Thu May 11, 2017 10:48 am

dtc wrote:Guess that is what Bali markets itself as providing, so its done very well.


That's how it is sold, found this today in the local facebook group:
"What better way to get into the surf scene here in the Gu than having your own private guide? From driving you to different breaks, paddling out with you, pushing you into waves and teaching you the theories and etiquettes involved with surfing, local surf guides are definitely the best way develop your surfing and they’re bound to get you well on your way to ripping!"

<link removed>

Also in this advertorial a nice description of some semi-secret spots... :spew:
Last edited by surf patrol on Fri May 12, 2017 8:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Link removed on request by Tudeo
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby dtc » Fri May 12, 2017 2:11 am

Tudeo wrote:Also in this advertorial a nice description of some semi-secret spots... :spew:


fixed!
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Re: Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

Postby vincequest » Tue Jun 13, 2017 3:22 pm

I am new here, and this article was super helpful for me. Thank you tony g for sharing!
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