Catching Waves early, lifting hip and pressing chest

[Milan]

Hi Everyone,

I am living in SIngapore and we don't have any waves. At the moment, I travel to Desaru Malaysia during the weekends to surf. Weekdays, I do extensive land training. I bought three balance pads, I place them on a workout bench and place my surfboard on top to make it unstable where I practice air paddling and popping up.
I have a 5'11" 39L surfboard with almost no rocker. I am beginning to be able to get to my feet and ride it but during late take off I always perl. I read that less rocker is difficult to surf on steep waves but that is the only surfboard that I have. I was thinking that if I able to catch the wave early then I could take off before the wave peaks. I was doing some reading and someone advised that lifing the hip and pressing the chest against the board will transfer the weight forward and enable to catch the wave early, before it starts to peak. I have been practicing this method on dry land but I am not so sure if it will work in the water as I am looking forward to the weekend trip. Has anyone tried this method to catch waves early? I also noticed during land training that when I lift my hip and press my chest and do a pop up, the pop up is so much easier, as if I am not using any strength at all, Maybe it has something to do with body being coiled like a spring?

[Big H]

No matter how you wiggle around, the only way to catch waves early is board speed....board speed can be achieved in a few different ways or in combination with each other.....bigger and longer boards paddle faster than shorter, lower volumed boards. Being able to paddle effectively, poised and in balance with fast paddle turnover and power is another way to catch a wave early.....both being able to paddle fast and effectively and having a bigger board will make it even easier to achieve your goal of getting in early.

Spring or otherwise, popping up correctly on a little board like yours should be effortless....the board falls away from you as you pop up unlike a longboard where you're pushing up on the board since you're catching the wave before it breaks....however you make it happen, whether by bigger board or better paddle technique and fitness or a combination of both, you need to get your board moving faster.

Keep practicing your pop up; a faster, smoother, better coordinated pop up will get you going on a wave faster as well....that and your paddle speed and as importantly, the timing of when you paddle for a wave (gotta be in the right spot too).

Might want to think about getting another board; short fat rockerless boards in spite of their high volume aren't for beginners as you're finding out, and they aren't for anyone if waves have a good shape, some power and speed, and/or jack fast.

[oldmansurfer]

Ways to avoid pearling on steep waves include
get into the wave early paddle strongly at the right moment but maybe also get a running start so go out a little further and paddle a little sooner before the wave gets to you then increase paddle effort when it gets to you.

Angle your takeoff if you paddle at an angle depending on the wave it requires more effort some don't seem to. Also you can turn after you popup or while you are popping up. It takes some time to learn this but at your last paddle you can turn the board by pulling a little more out from the inside rail or do a quick turn immediately after standing. Also as soon as you popup push your inside rail into the wave do this even if you are angled already. Aim the board as you drop toward down the line instead of going away from the wave.

You can also stomp the tail if the nose starts to go under. This requires that you look at the nose of the board which many people think is bad technique but I do this at least if I am surfing really steep waves.

I think altering your weight distribution will help not sure how much but I am pretty sure I do this maybe not the way you say it but I push my head down and kind of push forward in really critical situations

I have ridden a 9'6" long board on really steep waves and I have a 7'6" funboard that has even less rocker than the longboard and it works well for me in steep waves.

[oldmansurfer]

If you can do this it will definitely help

[pmcaero]

on my beater, which is a short stubby 54 in softboard, I sometimes manage to get a bit of extra speed by pushing myself forward with my legs when I feel I am about to catch a wave. So you can start by lying more towards the rear of the board, to prevent pearling, but you can push yourself forward to accelerate down the face once you deem appropriate.
It doesn't work for me every time though

[oldmansurfer]

Pearling happens for many reasons but the shape of the board is relatively flat and the wave is curved. So in order to avoid pearling int steep waves if you go straight down the face toward the beach you have to raise the nose out of the water. In some instances I find I can take the drop with the nose pointed to the shore but the board is parallel to the bottom. It's mostly on a drop where I am taking off after the wave broke in front of me or doing a foam climb or floater. However once in a while I will do it navigating the drop on a shoredump section. On a tall steep wave if you try this it will be like an air drop and I have done that too.....once on a good sized wave and pulled it off. So anyway usually on steep waves this is not an option so the board will be on the face of the wave. The problem with steep waves is the face is really flat (but perpendicular to the bottom) but there is a sharp curve right at the bottom where the wave goes into the flats. That is where you will pearl mostly if you don't figure out ways to avoid it. SO if you can turn sideways and not go that far down the wave that is one option however that also is not always an option. At least for me I find that most often I cannot turn on the wave and have to wait till I get to that curved part at the bottom. If I am not angled enough the board may try to pearl and I generally stomp the tail to keep the nose up. Most times I have both pushed my rail into the wave and angled the board and on really steep waves I also move my front foot to the inside rail to give it a better bite and help me turn sooner. All of this takes time to learn, but it's possible to ride steep waves with a board with very little rocker. I find that the amount of rocker my board has makes little difference in my pearling. For me pearling happens mostly when the board leaves contact with the wave as in extremely steep air droping on waves that lurched up suddenly or hitting a chop.

[dtc]

Perling is more because the tail of the board is caught by the wave and pushed upwards, then the nose, well, nose dives. So focusing on keeping the nose up doesnt help - its the tail that is the problem (usually). This is for perling at the top of the wave - as old man says, sometimes you can perl at the bottom of the wave

In any case, think of one car (car A) rear ending a second car (car B). If car A is travelling at 45km/h and car B at 40km/h, what will happen is that car B will be pushed forward. If car B is travelling at 15km/h, not only will it be pushed forward but its rear will also be pushed upwards. Same for a surfboard (car B) and a wave (car A). You need to have the surfboard travelling fast enough to avoid the tail being pushed upwards

[Milan]

If you can do this it will definitely help

LOL

[oldmansurfer]

Perling is more because the tail of the board is caught by the wave and pushed upwards, then the nose, well, nose dives. So focusing on keeping the nose up doesnt help - its the tail that is the problem (usually). This is for perling at the top of the wave - as old man says, sometimes you can perl at the bottom of the wave

In any case, think of one car (car A) rear ending a second car (car B). If car A is travelling at 45km/h and car B at 40km/h, what will happen is that car B will be pushed forward. If car B is travelling at 15km/h, not only will it be pushed forward but its rear will also be pushed upwards. Same for a surfboard (car B) and a wave (car A). You need to have the surfboard travelling fast enough to avoid the tail being pushed upwards

I wonder who has this problem enough to worry about it? I never did and learned to surf 2 times. But pearling at the bottom of the wave both times. When I takeoff paddling sideways angled I usually do this because I am not lined up properly to takeoff straighter and in paddling to the side I am hoping to get enough sideways to take off safely. This usually happens and the lip helps me by pushing the tail of my board but at a sideway angle because I am paddling sideways. Anyway pearling at the top of a wave happens to me when I hit chops paddling or I am not sitting in the correct position to just lay down and paddle on the board and not because the lip lifts the tail since it does that whether I pearl or not. Pearling at the top is a more rare occurrence than the other type of pearling for me anyway where I am actually riding the wave which is also kind of rare for me unless there are lots of steep waves and maybe some backwash to jack up the waves suddenly.

[Big H]

I'm loading the car now for later this afternoon .. will be relatively fast and steep and about 1.5OH so I am packing a board that will help me get in early and have control on the wave....7'x20.5"x3" for my 92kg.

[Milan]

Pearling happens for many reasons but the shape of the board is relatively flat and the wave is curved. So in order to avoid pearling int steep waves if you go straight down the face toward the beach you have to raise the nose out of the water. In some instances I find I can take the drop with the nose pointed to the shore but the board is parallel to the bottom. It's mostly on a drop where I am taking off after the wave broke in front of me or doing a foam climb or floater. However once in a while I will do it navigating the drop on a shoredump section. On a tall steep wave if you try this it will be like an air drop and I have done that too.....once on a good sized wave and pulled it off. So anyway usually on steep waves this is not an option so the board will be on the face of the wave. The problem with steep waves is the face is really flat (but perpendicular to the bottom) but there is a sharp curve right at the bottom where the wave goes into the flats. That is where you will pearl mostly if you don't figure out ways to avoid it. SO if you can turn sideways and not go that far down the wave that is one option however that also is not always an option. At least for me I find that most often I cannot turn on the wave and have to wait till I get to that curved part at the bottom. If I am not angled enough the board may try to pearl and I generally stomp the tail to keep the nose up. Most times I have both pushed my rail into the wave and angled the board and on really steep waves I also move my front foot to the inside rail to give it a better bite and help me turn sooner. All of this takes time to learn, but it's possible to ride steep waves with a board with very little rocker. I find that the amount of rocker my board has makes little difference in my pearling. For me pearling happens mostly when the board leaves contact with the wave as in extremely steep air droping on waves that lurched up suddenly or hitting a chop.

Hi Oldmansurfer,

I usually apply pressure on heels or toes depending on which way I want to go, ALMOST immediately after popping up. It has helped me to stay with the green face of the wave.
I have also noticed that the sharp curve at the bottom where the wave goes into flats. I am not sure but I think this happens (nose digs in) to me if the wave face is smaller then the length of my board. I will try and take off at an angle next time I am in the water.
You mentioned that the last stroke has to be outwards so the board turns to an angle for an angled take off, is this the only method? Will leaning your body while paddling for wave also have the same effect? Thanks
Milan

[oldmansurfer]

There are a variety of ways to accomplish this. Leaning is how I used to do it but for some unknown reason I switched to just a quick rotation by pulling sideways a little. Mostly when I surf I don't think about what I am going to do. I just do it so when I perceive a need to get angled I just do it not thinking about should I do this or that and often I seem like I am just a passenger and observing what I do myself for reasons that aren't entirely obvious. Sometimes I will angle the board and think why did I just do that ? I am perplexed but whatever my subconscious mind decided to do it seems to be the right thing somehow because the wave got really steep really fast. Somehow my subconscious mind picks up on subtle clues that I can't consciously observe. But in answer to your question yes it will just don't do it too soon or you have to paddle faster so right as the board starts to go lean and stand up. I can also do it as I stand up pushing one hand down more. I guess you need to see what works for you. The more you know the more you can do. Short steep fast waves yeah paddle before they get to you paddle hard and angle into the waves and don't try to takeoff on the shoulder. Bigger waves have a less severe slope at the bottom so the bigger the easier just kidding but sort of true.

[Milan]

I'm loading the car now for later this afternoon .. will be relatively fast and steep and about 1.5OH so I am packing a board that will help me get in early and have control on the wave....7'x20.5"x3" for my 92kg.

Nice board Big H. Is it custom made?

[dtc]

I wonder who has this problem enough to worry about it? I never did and learned to surf 2 times.

Every beginner but you has this problem!

surfingwipeoutpearl.jpg (21.06 KiB) Viewed 3241 times

or this guy at around 0.32

[YouTube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZNIxTAZt7A[/YouTube]

[waikikikichan]

I was doing some reading and someone advised that lifing the hip and pressing the chest against the board will transfer the weight forward and enable to catch the wave early, before it starts to peak.

By you having to lift your hips and forcefully press the chest down, you just engage some very large muscles. The energy used to move those muscles should have been used instead to propel the board forward by.......... paddling (correctly). Listening to that "advise" only is trying to make up for lack of paddle technique and wave knowledge.
I seen a lot of those clenched butt, leg going over the head, Scorpion paddling. Are those surfers the ones who you see catching all the nice waves ? No, it's the surfers with the smooth deep powerful strokes. Not the huffing and puffing ones splashing the top of the water. The body should be relaxed, the arms should be moving. Only the shoulders down should be in motion.

[Big H]

I'm loading the car now for later this afternoon .. will be relatively fast and steep and about 1.5OH so I am packing a board that will help me get in early and have control on the wave....7'x20.5"x3" for my 92kg.

Nice board Big H. Is it custom made?

Standard off the rack....just showing you what a board made for steep waves and getting in a little early looks like. But really its not the board....you need to paddle better, at the right time from the right position. Surfing looks easy; you're in the middle of learning the hard part and developing the muscles and stamina needed to make it look easy. Stick with it.

[oldmansurfer]

I wonder who has this problem enough to worry about it? I never did and learned to surf 2 times.

Every beginner but you has this problem!

surfingwipeoutpearl.jpg

or this guy at around 0.32

[YouTube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZNIxTAZt7A[/YouTube]

That is one of the things I like about this forum. I only know how it is for me so I would not know this unless I read this forum.

[Milan]

No matter how you wiggle around, the only way to catch waves early is board speed....board speed can be achieved in a few different ways or in combination with each other.....bigger and longer boards paddle faster than shorter, lower volumed boards. Being able to paddle effectively, poised and in balance with fast paddle turnover and power is another way to catch a wave early.....both being able to paddle fast and effectively and having a bigger board will make it even easier to achieve your goal of getting in early.

Spring or otherwise, popping up correctly on a little board like yours should be effortless....the board falls away from you as you pop up unlike a longboard where you're pushing up on the board since you're catching the wave before it breaks....however you make it happen, whether by bigger board or better paddle technique and fitness or a combination of both, you need to get your board moving faster.

Keep practicing your pop up; a faster, smoother, better coordinated pop up will get you going on a wave faster as well....that and your paddle speed and as importantly, the timing of when you paddle for a wave (gotta be in the right spot too).

Might want to think about getting another board; short fat rockerless boards in spite of their high volume aren't for beginners as you're finding out, and they aren't for anyone if waves have a good shape, some power and speed, and/or jack fast.

Hi Big H
You said the board falls away from you when popping up on a shortboard. Is it that the board falls forward or is left behind as you pop up? I thought that the hands on deck starts to come off just as the feet lands, having constant contact with the board, the board should not shift in relation to the body. Could you please explain what you meant by board shift away? Which way it shifts and how to overcome it? Thank you
Milan

[oldmansurfer]

I think he is talking about steep waves where the board drops over the edge as you popup so it is easier in a way because the board is falling down the face of the wave and you don't need much of a push to get up (you just need to be quick). This can happen with any size board but shortboards need to have steeper waves to take off so maybe more often with a shortboard.

[Big H]

Don't get too wrapped up in theory.....you need to paddle more effectively so that you get your board moving faster and at the right time. The rest will follow as you get better and go on progressively bigger waves.