Dead Surfer On The Beach . . .

[WaveJunkie]

Ha! I knew this would make you look!

It's a metaphor, a figure of speech. Not really a corpse on the sand, more just an old pirate trying to figure out where the center is in the cosmos.

I live at the ocean -- Astoria, Oregon, USA. Retired, have free time, $$$ comfortable, no kids, no spouse. My cat is fine all day in the house by himself.

I can get up and be on the beach before sunrise if that's what I want to do. Beach is 15 minutes away. My board is on the truck, gear in the back. Cooler, grill . . . I can toss the food together for a picnic in minutes.

New board, nice wetsuit, hooded, boots, gloves. I have all the gear, have been watching surf documentaries.

I went out two days in a row, three weeks ago.

Now I don't go. A couple days I went to the beach and sat on a picnic table and watched. ALL my gear in the truck . . . Just watched.

I had a good time the two days in the water. Caught waves and rode in on my stomach. With some work, I could stand and drop in. I know what this is about -- have been skate boarding, skating, skiing, water skiing most of my life. Not like this balance and board thing is a foreign skill.

But I sit at home, water the plants, work in the yard . . .

Tomorrow is a "Women's Surf School" at the beach. I'm not a woman, but I like them, a great deal *G*. I'm gonna go watch -- have the gear in the truck.

I hate putting on the suit. It's the shoulders and sleeves -- makes me claustrophobic until I get it zipped up. Then I'm fine.

But it seems a lot of work . . . and easy to sit at home, watch surf movies on TV, drink a brewski in the warmth of the house. (Ocean here is 55F on a good day.)

I feel like if I don't do it today, I can always do it tomorrow. And so I put it off. I'm surprised by this reaction. Bummed out a bit by it.

Somebody, please . . . kick me in the butt and get the juices flowing?

[k mac]

go for it man .....think hot girls
think you may just get that one wave you will remmeber .....think you may have a great day ...also think you could invite these women over to your truck for a party

[WaveJunkie]

go for it man .....think hot girls
think you may just get that one wave you will remmeber .....think you may have a great day ...also think you could invite these women over to your truck for a party

Yes, all of that I think. I get a cook-out going on the beach, and a cooler full of stuff to drink.

The weather here baffles me. I'm new to it all, like less than two years, and not really paying attention for most of it.

Overcast in the morning, and clears in the PM. But I get morose in the AM and decide all is lost.

Also, and this may be difficult to fathom -- Because I don't have any "time crunch" on things, I tend to put off, because "tomorrow" is the same as today.

Saturday and Tuesday are just as un-encumbered. Only Tuesday there are fewer people in the parking lot.

So I get up in the morning, see the overcast clouds, putter in the yard/garden . . . and turn on the TV.

Thinking I can surf tomorrow, just as well as today.

I'll sort it out. I need to get on the board, get in the water. I hate pulling on the neoprene . . .

But the babes seem to like me. Me, 57 . . . They're like 30 and seem to like me. I should work on that too.

*G*

[WaveJunkie]

My $280 O'Neill suit broke the zipper the first time I used it. So I took it back to the shop. The shop sent it to O'Neill . . . 3 weeks, 4 weeks.

The shop gave me a "loaner" suit. I used it one day.

Out two days in the water in the month I've owned the gear. And I live at the beach. Retired.

Surfing's not for me. It's a great sport, fun. But I get shark paranoia, don't like the cold water (55 F), don't like the salt in the nose/eyes. Don't like putting on the wet-suit. Don't like surfing in overcast, dreary, gray, wet weather -- which is what we get here.

Lots of work and most of the time the waves are small. Like 4' on a good day.

So, warranty replacement on the suit, and I just told the shop to put it back on the rack and give me a refund.

Sold the board locally.

I ride my bike, watch the boards on the waves. But I don't want to be out there.

Now I know . . . Tried it. It's fun . . . but it's not for me.

[Broosta]

Be more random!

[WaveJunkie]

:shock: Be more random!

Nope . . .

I'm old, retired, worry about getting eaten by sharks.

The water's salty, freekin' cold, and dangerous.

[k mac]

[k mac]

sorry to hear you lost the stoke man

[CheeZee]

" Wave Junkie " ... sounds like you need a 'cause' to support ...

im hearing you on the "surfing isnt for you" ..as i question my self every time i head for the water !!..i have crappy balance issues that dont seem to be improving and leave me wondering most visits whether i should just give it up and go back to my bikes and boxing but then something keeps pulling me back to the waters edge ... " i feel happy " ..whether i make it to my feet or ride every wave in on my knees , i dont care anymore ..as long as that smile keeps coming to my face i'll keep coming to the water ..to surf or not surf ..most days it does'nt seem to matter as long as im near the water

you've posted some good words on the 'legalize it' thread .. and im about to post a 'cause that im hoping all will help with .. a little 'purpose' my man that might lift your spirits

p.s ...as one dude to another ...sounds like you could do with some female company too bro'

[k mac]

sounds like you could do with some female company too bro'

dont doa growing kit for that on mail order do you cheeze my man ?

[CheeZee]

..hehe lmao ... not yet K' but if someone does .." you can guarantee i'll be first to receive the prototype "

" lol.. the best i can do is bubble wrap my ex and forward her on to ya ! ... and sorry we dont do refunds if you are not completely happy with your purchase ... but we do offer a large pair of earmuffs and a pair of " rose tinted glasses " for when all your friends tell you that .. " she aint right "

[meister]

Ha! I knew this would make you look!

It's a metaphor, a figure of speech. Not really a corpse on the sand, more just an old pirate trying to figure out where the center is in the cosmos.

I live at the ocean -- Astoria, Oregon, USA. Retired, have free time, $$$ comfortable, no kids, no spouse. My cat is fine all day in the house by himself.

I can get up and be on the beach before sunrise if that's what I want to do. Beach is 15 minutes away. My board is on the truck, gear in the back. Cooler, grill . . . I can toss the food together for a picnic in minutes.

New board, nice wetsuit, hooded, boots, gloves. I have all the gear, have been watching surf documentaries.

I went out two days in a row, three weeks ago.

Now I don't go. A couple days I went to the beach and sat on a picnic table and watched. ALL my gear in the truck . . . Just watched.

I had a good time the two days in the water. Caught waves and rode in on my stomach. With some work, I could stand and drop in. I know what this is about -- have been skate boarding, skating, skiing, water skiing most of my life. Not like this balance and board thing is a foreign skill.

But I sit at home, water the plants, work in the yard . . .

Tomorrow is a "Women's Surf School" at the beach. I'm not a woman, but I like them, a great deal *G*. I'm gonna go watch -- have the gear in the truck.

I hate putting on the suit. It's the shoulders and sleeves -- makes me claustrophobic until I get it zipped up. Then I'm fine.

But it seems a lot of work . . . and easy to sit at home, watch surf movies on TV, drink a brewski in the warmth of the house. (Ocean here is 55F on a good day.)

I feel like if I don't do it today, I can always do it tomorrow. And so I put it off. I'm surprised by this reaction. Bummed out a bit by it.

Somebody, please . . . kick me in the butt and get the juices flowing?

sounds to me like youre getting old. the passion's dying down and the sport becoming cumbersome. *shakes head* looks pretty grim to be honest.

[drowningbitbybit]

*kick, kick, kick, kick, kick, KICK, KICK, KICK!!!!!*

Consider your butt kicked, now get in the water

[moncho]

How long you been surfing WJ?

[globesurfer]

I cant surf for crap. But like the guys have said, I have a fun time in the water.

maybe read the "I'm in love" thread in surf chat i think, and watch step into liqid for some inspiration from Jesse Brad Billauer.

Just get out there and give it a go, and once you get a tube youll never stop (so they say)

[deathfrog]

maybe you guys missed the part where he said he sold his board and returned his wetsuit...

[globesurfer]

oops. i musve misread it. damn, get that board back!

[jonny]

hmm - that is a real shame.

Not unusual though - I have a good mate that lives in Byron Bay that does not bother to surf right through their winter as he just cannot be bothered with the whole cold water and wetsuit thing.

so - retired so plenty of time right? and money's not an issue? no partner on the scene to have to consider?

okay - here's the plan - get yourself booked into a nice hotel in Tamarindo in Costa Rica and sign up with the surf school there for a week. Look into it today! Serious!

You'll experience perfect chest to head high waves, great food, sunshine, super friendly locals and above all, lovely warm water so no need for a suit. They will provide you with a board too.

I think getting away from home and surfing in warm waters with a jaw-dropping tropical rainforest background may be just hat you need to get the stoke back.

You'll come back super fired up, grinning ear to ear, beaing able to surf really well and most of all I hope you;ll get your zest for life back!

Do it - get on the net now and get some prices. Make some calls. NOW NOW NOW!!!

[Broosta]

I reckon this guy just has a really short attention span and surfing was his 'flavour of the month' a little while ago - actually I'm not even completely convinced he ever did go surfing...

[globesurfer]

Nice one by Jonny, nah i reckon he did go surfin Broost