Can you describe the feeling...

[guanny]

hi guys, I need some help...
I'm trying to write a short-story about surfing, but I'm extremely stuck. Can anyone describe for me what it feels like to conquer a big wave? What's the feeling when you're right on top of a wave riding it? any help would be greatly appreciated!
thnx

[sinistapenguin]

Do you want a little paragraph describing a particular ride - as in do you want it written in the first person?

[dondiemand]

i've never conquered a big wave, yet, but i can tell u only one thing, it's the greatest feeling, it's that same feeling when u got a bicycle for your 8th birthday

[S2000]

I get an awesome feeling every time I catch a wave. That's what got me hooked. I'm still a bit sucky and only get up on one or two waves per session if I'm lucky but I have fun every time I paddle out.

[Broosta]

Also never really done any big wave stuff but every time I paddle out and the waves are good I get butterflies due to excited anticipation !

[drowningbitbybit]

Not sure what defines 'big', but the biggest waves Ive ever surfed went something like...

"okay here comes one paddlepaddlepaddlePADDLE lookovershoudler f*ckImgonnadief*ckImgonnadief*ckImgonnadie PADDLEPADDLE whoaf*ckImgoingtoofasttoofastarghtoofast oh better stand up then popupwobble heyIhaventdiedyet ohb*ggeritsclosingout f*ckImgonnadief*ckImgonnadie CRASH burbletumble whichwaysup? burbletumble wonderwheremyboardsgone? hmmmmrunningoutofbreathnow, f*ckImgonnadie! f*ckimgonnadie oh, sunlight air, I didnt die!"

[DayWalker*]

drowningbitbybit - described it to a tee...

[surferdude_scarborough]

yeah perfect

[WaveJunkie]

"Write about what you know." That's advice that goes way back in writing . . .

If you haven't caught a huge wave, you're going to have a hard time describing it.

But -- the movie, and it's running on the movie channels these days -- "Step Into Liquid." By Dana Brown, son of Bruce Brown who did "Endless Summer."

Heaps of discussion about what surfing feels like, the mystique, the thrills, the fun. Mostly it's fun. Polynesians had a lot of time to recreate and so developed recreation for "fun" -- no score keeping, no games one opposing another, just "fun."

In this movie they interview some girl surfers -- who I think might understand "fun" more than any guys. Guys get raised to compete. These girls are just out on the wave smilin', laughin', having a good time. (And being total babes!)

Other movie running on TV these days is "Riding Giants." About huge waves.

Have a look and see if maybe it moves you to words.

But writing is like a tube of toothpaste. If you squeeze it the toothpaste comes out because it's in the tube. If nothing comes out, it's because there's no paste in the tube.

[JfetZ]

paddle out, sit think of nothing but the waves-clear head-f*** was that a shark?! o well- SH*t! paddle paddle paddle! Loud noises of wave breaking, hit a nice wall, sound of board moving though the water-peace

[k mac]

you paddle out your freinds are out back theres a refect swellyouve been waiting for for weeks the wind is gentle breeze offshore you get to the line upyousee a wave start to jack u..your in perfect position you turn your board paddle feel the wave pick you up ...youthen gracefully pop up in one movement and bottom turn on the face of the wave and then you juststay in trim no bothering with any cut backs or carves or anything you baskinthe moment time almostslows down when the lipcomes over your head ...your lucky youjust got a bit of a cover up then time speeds up you come of the wave and paddle backout and have the biggest grin on your face

[guanny]

thanks so much for ur help guys...this is the story i wrote. it's only about what i imagine surfing 2 be like though, so i'm afraid that it might be kinda cliched. any comments?

The Taming of the Wave

I
When she turned three her birthday present did not jump out of a cardboard box punctured with air holes, a bow tied around its neck. Rather it crashed around her feet yapping until she ran away squealing, as if the gentle lappings of foam could actually hurt her. The shovel and pail lay forgotten.
When she was 8 she learnt about its anatomy in school with the aid of motionless diagrams which didn’t make sense. They weren’t even the right shade of blue.
When she turned twelve she sat on her living room floor with running her hands across her first surfboard, her fingers travelling down the blue stripe, like little ballerinas en pointe.

II
It’s a good day. Slamming the car door, she tucks the board under her arm and heads for the beach, pretending to not notice the whistles and catcalls of the board-shorts sitting outside the café. The sun ruffles her hair, playing with her highlights. She can fill out a bikini now. Gone was the wiry little girl whose pale limbs would thrash about among the waves as she wrestled with nine feet of longboard.
She paddles out to sea and catches a wave, jumping to her feet at just the right moment.
And for 5 euphoric seconds, she is on top of the highest mountain the world. The white foam nips at her toes. The deep turquoise walls close in on her, and finally crashes about her ears, knocking her off her board and into the deep blue.
But her heart sings for those five seconds.

III
They walk across to the beach, sunglasses glinting, young tanned legs glinting with SPF15. An old lady hunches on the bench, a shawl pulled tight to stop the salty wind biting her neck. The grey strands in her hair catch the sunlight every now and then as she stares out to sea.
And if one of these kids stopped for a minute to talk to this little thing, then she could tell them a thing or two about taming the waves.
Oh yes…

[calisurfer]

just go out catch what u call a big wave and then paddle in a right about it

[globesurfer]

hi guys, I need some help...
I'm trying to write a short-story about surfing, but I'm extremely stuck. Can anyone describe for me what it feels like to conquer a big wave? What's the feeling when you're right on top of a wave riding it? any help would be greatly appreciated!
thnx

Alright. Picture this.

You're standing ten metres above water, on a diving block, and you jump off. The adrenaline kicks in and you feel your heart pumping. You break the surface and you feel all pumped and exhilarated. The feeling of all that wind in your face and the speed you get...

Times it by ten, and you have successfully made the drop at Waimea Bay.

Fun, anyone?