Getting Confidence back....

[jksurf]

Hi Guys,

I've surfed for around 3-4 years when I was younger (12-18 y/old), went surfing whilst on holiday and whenever I got a chance.

I've just started to take it back up, but I'm about 20 kgs heavier when I was 18, and for some reason - I am not very confident when it comes to paddling out outside the break. I'm a very confident swimmer, but it seems when I'm using the board I get a little taken back.

It means I tread about in the break, and unable to catch the waves I want (I catch a few, but the 'green' ones I go for are about to break and I inevitably nose dive).

Any suggestions, recommendations? Has anyone gone through this before?

[dtc]

I was going to ask in your other post whether you still had the muscle memory from surfing between 12-18? I'm pretty sure I'm still the best at things I did at that age even if i haven't done them since. Well, except for algebra and that kind of stuff

As to your question, most of the time it's easier out the back to be further out ie past where the waves are breaking, so it's nice and smooth. It's worse where you are positioning yourself

But is it that you can't get past the breaking waves (ie don't know how) or you don't feel confident to go out?

[jksurf]

Muscle memory is fine, and getting up on the board is still as slick as it was..

I'm not an expert, but can catch a wave go along it and have a good ride.

I think you've hit the nail on the head with "it's going to be better out there than where you are positioning yourself". I think I'm just wary of the currents etc and often I go alone, so I don't want to risk it perhaps?

Paddling is fine, I can't really duck dive on the board so I usually roll if its too heavy.

[oldmansurfer]

what do you mean by "I'm a very confident swimmer, but it seems when I'm using the board I get a little taken back. " ? Are you a confident swimmer in the ocean? If you went out to the break without the board would you do ok? And in the second part "taken back".....is that mentally taken back or physically pushed back in? both?

[Big H]

Hi Guys,

I've surfed for around 3-4 years when I was younger (12-18 y/old), went surfing whilst on holiday and whenever I got a chance.

I've just started to take it back up, but I'm about 20 kgs heavier when I was 18, and for some reason - I am not very confident when it comes to paddling out outside the break. I'm a very confident swimmer, but it seems when I'm using the board I get a little taken back.

It means I tread about in the break, and unable to catch the waves I want (I catch a few, but the 'green' ones I go for are about to break and I inevitably nose dive).

Any suggestions, recommendations? Has anyone gone through this before?

Build up your paddle fitness so that you're more confident in the water, then go out far enough to position yourself to catch waves early enough....if you know you are too far inside to get in, then go further out....if being further out makes you uncomfortable I would work hard on your paddle so that being far out doesn't seem so far.......as for the 20kg extra....change your diet and start to lose weight....being more fit will help your confidence as your paddling and cardiovascular fitness improvements will only help to make you more at ease.

[dtc]

Certainly past the waves there can be sweeps (rips are usually from the beach out, sweeps are across the back). Are you staying in a spot you can stand? I can see that will seem safer albeit it's not really for surfing (if you can stand then it's shallow).

Anyway, sure when you are out there you will realise it's not too bad.

And, big H, some of us were very skinny 18yr olds...I was 68kg at 189cm. Now 80kg or so...another 25lb all muscle

[Big H]

And, big H, some of us were very skinny 18yr olds...I was 68kg at 189cm. Now 80kg or so...another 25lb all muscle

Yeah....he said he was only 7 years on unlike us geezers....I'm sure he'll fill out and reach his full middle aged potential one day but I'd wager that he could lose a few at the moment.... 20kg from 18 to 25 is considerable.

[oldmansurfer]

When I was 18, I was 6'2" and 165 pounds and was unable to gain any weight. Now I am 62 years old and probably a little shorter than 6'2" and 210 pounds and unable to lose any weight

[Big H]

I was 10-15lbs lighter than I am now at 18 - was already part timing concert security then; I was a big boy........highlights how everyone is different....held onto one favourite t-shirt from high school until I was married, which my wife then took care of in short order....

[dtc]

Totally co incidentally was listening to an interview with Neil Degrasse Tyson (he is an astronomy educator) who joked that 'space time' was the wrong question as 'weight time' is the true reality

[jksurf]

I gained 20 KGS from when I was 18, but at 18 I was incrediblely skinny! I weighed under 60 KGS, and now weigh 79 kgs.... I'm 6ft so, that's a fine weight.

In terms of swimming, yes.. I can swim outside the break, tried to yesterday with my new board and it seems alot easier, I just needed to push myself and also my old board was alittle too heavy for me. Nose dived a couple of times but got some good lines!

Thanks guys