I'm a special case. need advise

[yiPyiiP]

He has 4 boards already....no need to rent.

well.. wut ?

[DreamSurf]

He has 4 boards already....no need to rent.

well.. wut ?

i bought the long board for wife. but learned on it one day.
bought a shortboard before and had a huge dissapointment
someone gave me a present and nps. (surprisingly good) not easy but possible
bought a 7.6 board and never used it

so of the 4 i only use 2. the shortboard and the 7.2 nps.
i switch between them and find myself getting better and better. sometimes i go back to the shortboard. and i see progress.
the longboard really didnt help me like some experienced. it was like a boat. i didnt even had to pop up. thats why i skipped it after.
the shortboard didnt work either. there was no experience to make it happen.
the nps was below my beginner volume. but at least it had challenge. and because of that surfboard i literally surf and have fun. sometimes after a full day surf i switch back to shortboard to see how much influence the nps board puts on my shortboard.
and yeah it really helped me. now i can say nps i can do. and shortboard is a challenge.

perhaps u didnt read the whole commotion here LOL. but i learned the hard way. and believe me these guys knew what i was getting into. but i just didnt want to follow their track. but the track slapped me into it .

i took the middle. the funboard does it great for me. really happy to be able to surf. but my ideal is to surf like dane reynolds in the boiler boys movie. perhaps a short or long road or even not makeable road. but one can only try and have fun in the process.

also i can tell now that skateboarding REALLY helped me. but not in the beginning. the paddle the pop up the reding of waves the patience. but once i drop i am using my skateboard abilities. allready aired a tiny 2 cm i guess. didnt do pipe since the waves are tiny and inconsistent where i am near. i love to just ride. im still wobbly depending on how my confidence is. i get tired after 2 hours and i become shizz. there is a lot of work to do. the feeling and motion is there. the balance for at least on nps is there. but alas. we will see. im going full on this stuff period.

yes i may be kinda weird. but its all good im happy so.

[Lebowski]

allready aired a tiny 2 cm i guess. didnt do pipe since the waves are tiny and inconsistent where i am near. i love to just ride. im still wobbly depending on how my confidence is. i get tired after 2 hours and i become shizz. there is a lot of work to do. the feeling and motion is there. the balance for at least on nps is there. but alas. we will see. im going full on this stuff period.

yes i may be kinda weird. but its all good im happy so.

Where are these videos that you promised us?

[DreamSurf]

allready aired a tiny 2 cm i guess. didnt do pipe since the waves are tiny and inconsistent where i am near. i love to just ride. im still wobbly depending on how my confidence is. i get tired after 2 hours and i become shizz. there is a lot of work to do. the feeling and motion is there. the balance for at least on nps is there. but alas. we will see. im going full on this stuff period.

yes i may be kinda weird. but its all good im happy so.

Where are these videos that you promised us?

There wont be videos for a long time. My first time i did it for u guys. Nows the time to practice and get better. And for now i travel solo and no good camera. My friends are looking for surfboards. I see a good thing in that such as motivating eachother. For now its just getting better. Weekend pause now. Thx for your interest . Oh yeah u saying that to see my air. Well it wont be impressive anyways. I landed wobly drppping all the way down then hit my head full speed on the water. Lol. But im proud anyway. When things get better and stable and my friends are in this deal then we can make some video's that are worth while. Im happy enough now that i can ride. I even tried boardslide by the way. But again its differen. The water makes your board stop and make you fall. Not like a rail where you wax and just do your balance. Blablabla. I dont want to overpost on this forum lol. Thx for your interest again.

[Big H]

Im not buying it.

[DreamSurf]

Im not buying it.

its for myself and not for you. if i do lie then shame on me for llieying to myself. that would be really distorted of myself. i showed you guys my first time with my wife filming while checking the kids. i admitted my wrong. i could have not uploaded and lied but i did not. i showed you guys how i failed in my attempt. also im in a progress so im faaaaaaaaaaar from good. but sometimes i do what i used to do on concrete. and it works.
I am not good im really bad.

expecting big is one thing. but i would never lie.

allah says
weyloen yawma idien lil moekadibien

translate
woe to those who lie

according to the sharia you are only allowed to lie because of three reasons.

1. when your wife is sick or has health issue or doesnt look so good in your hidden mind: you are allowed to say that she looks good to make here happy. this is considered charity and it happens even in non muslim community so no problem
2. during war to prevent damage you are allowed to lie to the enemy about anything just to save your family from death
3. when 2 individuals have beef and dont want to see eachother again you are allowed to lie to one and say that the other individual talks good about you. and going to the other and do the same. if it brings them together thats good.
(you shouldnt just do it cause it can end bad fore knowledge is a priority)

this is how i live. i think it is also unnecesary to lie about this. i might as well not post. what am i winning with it? nothing really.

when someone posts here i believe anyone blindly cause to me it is what i read. i do not want to be an inspector for every individual. if someone lies its on himself. thats it.

[waikikikichan]

but once i drop i am using my skateboard abilities. allready aired a tiny 2 cm i guess.

Congrats, another one of your goals reached (and quite quickly). How were you able to gauge the 2cm. air ? From the video taken of it or from your own vision above the wave ? If it was from your view, was that off the flat bottom, the tail or from the end tips of the fins ? Did you do a grab or no handed ?

[jaffa1949]

The technical term for a 2cm air followed by falling on your face is a wipeout. Any unsuccessful manouvre or air is called a wipeout. For anybody any time, only the magnitude differs.

[DreamSurf]

but once i drop i am using my skateboard abilities. allready aired a tiny 2 cm i guess.

Congrats, another one of your goals reached (and quite quickly). How were you able to gauge the 2cm. air ? From the video taken of it or from your own vision above the wave ? If it was from your view, was that off the flat bottom, the tail or from the end tips of the fins ? Did you do a grab or no handed ?

Like jaffa mentions it is a wipeout. But honestly im happy with it anyway. i try stuff while i dont even have the basic. basically what happened when you look at my poor drawing. i was riding and making speeds. i went up and did a standard indie grab. it wasnt a bowish air, but as soon as i felt it i went for an immediate 180. its was a small 2 cm from the water and not in heights. as soon as i was mid 180. my nose was still at the water level as u see in the pic and the tail is up. i dont want to talk big about the heights cause the waves was lowering during the air manoevre. when i landed i felt really unfamiliar. cause normally with wheels you feel the impact and you can count on the wheel profile sticking to the ground. with the surfboard i felt a splash and the board sticked to the water still wobbling. my foot on the traction pad was on it but the heel was on the outside. my front foot went skate stance. i went down wobbling and being really scared . and while steering my body went in the opposite way and felt.

a wipe out exactly

but what it comes down to is i should be riding a little more cause i look like some old man shaking sometimes. on a day with confidence it works a bit. i have to admit also that when i change sea location i feel the same fear i had the first time. so changing surfspot does something to me. perhaps scared of the unknown. bray dunes france is familiair now panne is to. westende was the last one i did. and maybe it wasnt my day. funny i went mid france and experiencing higher waves made me better on lower one.

take the third alinea with a grain of salt pls. i cant really measure how good or bad i am. im just going along with this sport.
quiet honestly before the weekend pause i felt really alone. i have no surf friends and the only thing i have is you guys and dem videos and my self sustained hype. but i know like in skating friends really help out in motivation. unfortunately my friends promised to buy a surfboard but they arent really looking for it so its better not to count on them. ah well we will see

[waikikikichan]

Yeah, landing air reverses have a problem in that you have to bring the nose back around. Probably that's why you wiped out. Most surfers land with the weight over the nose, than move their weight back to engage the fins and spin around. You happened to have your foot to back too early, and the tail just dug.

[Big H]

but once i drop i am using my skateboard abilities. allready aired a tiny 2 cm i guess.

Congrats, another one of your goals reached (and quite quickly). How were you able to gauge the 2cm. air ? From the video taken of it or from your own vision above the wave ? If it was from your view, was that off the flat bottom, the tail or from the end tips of the fins ? Did you do a grab or no handed ?

...i was riding and making speeds. i went up and did a standard indie grab. it wasnt a bowish air, but as soon as i felt it i went for an immediate 180. its was a small 2 cm from the water and not in heights. as soon as i was mid 180. my nose was still at the water level as u see in the pic and the tail is up. i dont want to talk big about the heights cause the waves was lowering during the air manoevre.

A special case indeed.....

I personally am hoping that you come with a story about how you went out back and caught a wave that hadnt broken yet....even if for only a few seconds before bogging out in the flats.....that would be belivable and a success story.

[DreamSurf]

The only way some of you will believe is a video. I can give details and keep going and go catch catch. Answer questions and it will never be enough.

As for succesfull: im working on it.

untill i have my better camera. Its a bad aftertaste this whole: i wonder if he is telling the truth.

I rest my case untill then

[Big H]

It's all good.....keep posting about your journey....it is different for each person. I like hearing about what others go through; sometimes parallels experiences that I had. So maybe I'm just jealous then...... I couldn't do indy grab to 180*'s after a couple weeks of surfing.....I can't now and can't blame the waves (pretty good here).....not something that I'm working toward....maybe I'll pull one off one day but at the moment I'm working on smoothing transitions between basic movements like pumping to bottom turn when the wave steepens and starts to section to cutback (linking moves) all the while maintaining speed and flow.....not good at it yet, sometimes I manage to look like I know what I'm doing but usually trip up along the way, either rubbing off too much speed via a too sharp turn, off balance or otherwise interrupting the flow, make a wrong decision (high line on a wave that suddenly (but as it turns out, predictably after that first time) pitches at that spot sending me head over heels down the face) or something else that precludes perfection.....I'm better than I was but have a lot to learn and time is not on my side. At least I can sit in lineups around here and get my share usually......modest goals but one that I'm proud of as I continue to push into more competitive lineups. But my experience is unique....OMS has a totally different story to tell, growing up Paipo boarding in Hawaii, Jaffa another one, surfing Pipe before I was a gleam in my Daddy's eye......keep adding your story to the mix Dream; there are no wrong answers here.

[Big H]

4-7ft and the tide is dropping....gotta run; don't forget what this is all about.

[jaffa1949]

A really good set thing to learn and get really powerful at is the good old basic bottom turn.
It is the generator of all speed to translate into everything in any top of the wave turns, re- entries, alley oops and any type of rotating air.
Bottom turn are often the first manouvre any each builds speed, any top turn without speed is a certified wipeout.

Get strong basics , the differences of foot and response to gravity will then back you in your quest for Danereynoldsism.
When you watch your videos watch the turn before the top hacks and airs , see the lead up and learn from those,

[DreamSurf]

I had the chance to have a 10 minute session. Gave my phone to a kiddo to show you what i ment with immediate 180. I can do very high with the board. But just to show you the concept that i have a feel for this stuff. I aired since the age of 12. That was more the thing before flips came into play.

What i try here to show u how it went with the surfboard. I only had 10 mins so here is

[Big H]

So you're saying that's what you did on the wave?

[Big H]

Look bro....if you can do everything in this video in the next 6 months, that would be a tremendous achievement......

[DreamSurf]

So you're saying that's what you did on the wave?

Yes and now u know why i said to not be impressed LOL. And it felt high cause the wave lowered and the white water was getting closer. When i landed i went further but i was destined to fall cause my traction pad foot(im regular) was heel outside. And front foot was to close. Like on my board. When steering the board went the opposite way cause i didnt respect the basic.
To many flaws when landing and to little experience to go forth. But i have to say that it was close. Wipe out! Haha

Like i said im really just a beginner rushing to much. But it was just a test nothing more.

Now i know that my skating skill doesnt mean nothing in this field. It just aint everything like i thought from page 1. Its a package that comes with some advantage.

[DreamSurf]

Yeah, landing air reverses have a problem in that you have to bring the nose back around. Probably that's why you wiped out. Most surfers land with the weight over the nose, than move their weight back to engage the fins and spin around. You happened to have your foot to back too early, and the tail just dug.

it is almost like you were there. your explanation added to what i was saying. ill take that advice of weight over the nose.


i have a lot to learn waikiki . i will try to absorb your advice and use it.
have in mind that im a changed man for some time now and i take you guys really serious. i know ive been in that i know ill be cool mentality. and somehow i still am 40 procent.(its necessary for the hype) but im listening so much more cause there is so much onto it.