your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby BoMan » Mon Sep 05, 2016 6:22 pm

oldmansurfer wrote: If you asked another surfer to borrow his board the answer was more likely to be "NO" than if you asked him if you could date his girlfriend (in which case he might have to think about it a bit).


Well said :lol:

I bought my first board from a kid who lived next to my room in Anacapa Hall."Toby" occasionally went to class but mostly partied, and hit the surf spots between Santa Barbara and San Diego. Despite being stoned most of the time he was brilliant and could write term papers (complete with fabricated footnotes) and get passing grades. :bang:

The board was a 6'11" fish with glassed twin fins, no rocker and no leash! (state of the art in 1969) Learning to ride, I pearled up to my eyeballs and had long swims to fetch it after every wipe out. There was no money for a roof rack, so I drove around with the board sticking 2' out of the passenger window on my VW bug. (also state of the art in 1969)

It looked like this...before I broke it on the rocks. Sadly, I moved away from the coast and gave up surfing until a couple of years ago.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Big H » Mon Sep 05, 2016 11:25 pm

fromsk82surf wrote:
is 0.7 meter ok with 30 km. using the glassy.pro android app/ is that an ok wave?

You really need to get to the ocean and get that board wet......then you will start the looooonnnnggg process of learning about surfing and all that involved including how to know what a report means to YOU.

I am waiting for the tide to come up a touch; this is what Im looking at per glassy pro.....
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby saltydog » Tue Sep 06, 2016 1:30 am

I've been surfing for about a year so I still have my first board, not counting the foamie. It was a dirt cheap longboard the seller had just run over the rock and got it chewed pretty good on the bottom, but that thing had a whole lot of other dings from the nose to tail already. I managed to fix it enough to be water tight and rode ok. I was so stoked to be owning and riding a real board! But now all the old suncure repairs the previous owner made are starting to crack and take in water so it's more of a work in progress board. I enjoy working on my boards myself but it gets old if I have to chase after the cracks after every other session. I just found another leak from yesterday's session. I can't wait to get a new board and put this into a back-up status.

You should take out your board soon. Surfboards are supposed to be ridden. :surfing:
"For the rest of your life, you can't look at a wave without thinking about riding it."
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby RinkyDink » Tue Sep 06, 2016 6:06 am

fromsk82surf wrote:is 0.7 meter ok with 30 km. using the glassy.pro android app/ is that an ok wave?


It's not the size or the prize, but the way of the lay [on your surfboard]. I often go surfing to just get in the water. My surfboard is frequently an expensive flotation device I lounge around on. In other words, if you're craving to get in the water, then go get in the ocean. Remember, surfing is all about time in the water. I always learn something or see something new whenever I get into the sea.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Oldie » Tue Sep 06, 2016 6:39 am

Lebowski wrote:
fromsk82surf wrote:is 0.7 meter ok with 30 km. using the glassy.pro android app/ is that an ok wave?


It's impossible to say really without experience of your specific beach. Some beaches will have a surfable wave with a 0.7m swell, some will be completely flat.

30km/h wind is strong though. Unless it's offshore it will be messy.


Welcome to the North Sea :? No waves without local winds, and mostly it will be onshore. There are selective good days where after stormy days or change of weather you can get cleaner days.But 30km/h is really strong, and the main issue at the North Sea is not just the issue of it being messy, but also how the winds affect currents which can mess up your day completely. If that is not too bad, you can go out anyway and every minute on a board can help you develop.

0,7m can be quite ok in many spots. http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Belgium/ Check the period, too Often you just get 3-4s, and that is weak and even more messy on top.

These are two days without about 2ft on the same spot. Difference is wind and period:

This is with more than 30km/h, very short period & onshore wind. Almost unsurfable.

Image

No Wind, 7s period. Max 5 days of this per year:

Image

And most of the time it is something in between,

Get wet. Get wet now.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Big H » Tue Sep 06, 2016 7:08 am

Oldie,

Why did you post a picture of a river in the first pic?

:lol:
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Lebowski » Tue Sep 06, 2016 8:03 am

Yup, I'm in England now, so I'm well aware of the disappointment of the North Sea! I haven't bothered to surf in the 3 months that I've been here. Luckily I'm going back to NZ in a month or so.

There are actually some spots that absolutely fire (very occasionally) on Englands east coast though.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Wed Sep 07, 2016 8:45 am

Oldie wrote:
Lebowski wrote:
fromsk82surf wrote:is 0.7 meter ok with 30 km. using the glassy.pro android app/ is that an ok wave?


It's impossible to say really without experience of your specific beach. Some beaches will have a surfable wave with a 0.7m swell, some will be completely flat.

30km/h wind is strong though. Unless it's offshore it will be messy.


Welcome to the North Sea :? No waves without local winds, and mostly it will be onshore. There are selective good days where after stormy days or change of weather you can get cleaner days.But 30km/h is really strong, and the main issue at the North Sea is not just the issue of it being messy, but also how the winds affect currents which can mess up your day completely. If that is not too bad, you can go out anyway and every minute on a board can help you develop.


0,7m can be quite ok in many spots. http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Belgium/ Check the period, too Often you just get 3-4s, and that is weak and even more messy on top.

These are two days without about 2ft on the same spot. Difference is wind and period:

This is with more than 30km/h, very short period & onshore wind. Almost unsurfable.

Image

No Wind, 7s period. Max 5 days of this per year:

Image

And most of the time it is something in between,

Get wet. Get wet now.


that is some serious problem for me . you need at least pass by bray dunes to start see waves which is france.
i guess ill be paddling. im awaiting my fcs leash for now. that 7.6 board has arrived at last. that first picture though LOL.

but you know what. what are we going to do in weekends? staying home and do jack shizz. not me NAH NAH. pick my car. put my surfboard in it. ill take my wife and kids. and go mental with paddling. paddling is cooler (also literally)LOL. then stay local and go playgarden for kids.

dont wanna go politics but i kinda frown upon france since their doing childish about the scarve thing. my wife wears a scarve and cant she go on beach because of that? not only. but it is cold as well. my snicker shrinks in an instant in that cold. :oops:

seriously why is everybody going crazy about that scarve. i am literally a free open man and i say everybody do whatever. i have a punk rock friend. nobody wants to walk with him( i do) if they at least would have talked to him then they would know how smart he is. he is a top class web designer and makes loads of money. freedom must be total in a sense where no one hurts the other. we all want freedom and sometimes forget that our freedom is supressing the other. yeah thats some deep talk there.

anyways im not going to sit home. i got that big and shortboard. something needs to happen and fast
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Wed Sep 07, 2016 8:47 am

saltydog wrote:I've been surfing for about a year so I still have my first board, not counting the foamie. It was a dirt cheap longboard the seller had just run over the rock and got it chewed pretty good on the bottom, but that thing had a whole lot of other dings from the nose to tail already. I managed to fix it enough to be water tight and rode ok. I was so stoked to be owning and riding a real board! But now all the old suncure repairs the previous owner made are starting to crack and take in water so it's more of a work in progress board. I enjoy working on my boards myself but it gets old if I have to chase after the cracks after every other session. I just found another leak from yesterday's session. I can't wait to get a new board and put this into a back-up status.

You should take out your board soon. Surfboards are supposed to be ridden. :surfing:


my second hand has some pressure dings but they are minor. stoked you say haha. keep the stoke they say here. :D
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Wed Sep 07, 2016 8:53 am

benjl wrote:Here is mine- I had a slow wait for it and constant delays from the shaper about when it would be ready. I was stoked to finally pick it up!

Two weeks and two surfs later I snapped my achillies and wouldn't be able to surf for about 8months.

While sitting at home doing nothing, I was looking over the board and noticed cracking and softening in the fibreglass around the pad already (I'm light and asked for extra strong epoxy glassing) so I took it back to complain.
2.5 months later I've just picked it up again and they mentioned that they had given the board to me before the resins had properly cured and patch up the cracked area.
Now I've got to look at it again for another 4-5montja before being able to use again :cry:


when is a crack bad? i see all my friends surfboards have some minor cracks around the fins.
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby kookextraordinaire » Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:32 am

Sweet chop-tail! Looks fast.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby BoMan » Sun Oct 30, 2016 5:46 pm

Do 1st skateboards count? I had one of these with a block of wood on the back to carve. :lol:

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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:38 am

BoMan wrote:Do 1st skateboards count? I had one of these with a block of wood on the back to carve. :lol:

Image


you are from way back. nice board the one that looks like a surfboard shape. Iron wheels. and did they have bearings?
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby BoMan » Mon Oct 31, 2016 4:13 pm

DreamSurf wrote:You are from way back. nice board the one that looks like a surfboard shape. Iron wheels. and did they have bearings?


The wheels on my first board had steel bearings which have been around since the 1880's although that was a LITTLE before my time. Most homemade boards in my youth went straight ahead and the only way to turn them was to carve. In the photo you can see how people experimented with wheel mounts to turn without carving. Ahaha!

oldskate.JPG
oldskate.JPG (7.25 KiB) Viewed 459 times


After mowing lawns and saving some money, I bought a Hobie Super Surfer! :woot:

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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Mon Oct 31, 2016 5:39 pm

BoMan wrote:
DreamSurf wrote:You are from way back. nice board the one that looks like a surfboard shape. Iron wheels. and did they have bearings?


The wheels on my first board had steel bearings which have been around since the 1880's although that was a LITTLE before my time. Most homemade boards in my youth went straight ahead and the only way to turn them was to carve. In the photo you can see how people experimented with wheel mounts to turn without carving. Ahaha!

oldskate.JPG


After mowing lawns and saving some money, I bought a Hobie Super Surfer! :woot:

Image


man now i s hould question am i young or old but not as old as you?

anyways i do have great love for these things. i love to see it from root to the fruit. ive seen many boards, but from here n say from the streets we have guys skating still and they are 60 and according to them skating became a real deal. from 85 to 99. but hey everyone has his opinion ofcourse and its your view.

so you are a surfer then what was and is your way of skating? do you do bowls only? or mini and half pipes? do you street? how do you use your skateboard?

for me at this moment it is really all around. but i just dont do 13 stairs anymore kickflip or high stair rails. i have kids at home and i have to admit as i get older im more aware of danger. and funny enough it happens to me more(injuries) i think its because im aware. that can be some kind of bad trigger. not being aware means more focus on concentration on the trick and how to fall.
(i think)

what is is your current ride? if u still skate ofcourse.
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby BoMan » Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:36 pm

I'm 65 and have always been the guy who just has fun! Here's my story from another thread...

As a longboarder, I naturally train with a long skateboard. With all the money I spend on surfing, I couldn't justify buying one of the premium boards on your list. Mine is 44" long, 10" wide with 7" trucks, 70 mm wheels and a kicktail. https://rideasf.com/reviews/quest-super-cruiser-longboard-review

I ride on wide streets that have both gentle and steep slopes. At the top, I slalom with kick turns to control the speed and must admit that a lot of work is needed to bring my backside carves up to par with the frontside! Lower on the hill, I switch to rail turns with a lot of crouching, then on the flats I practice a few cross steps. It keeps me stoked between surfs.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Oct 31, 2016 10:00 pm

My first skateboard was red and it had metal wheels. It was the only commercial model available. Then I got one with clay wheels which was when I really got into it because metal wheels sucked. I wore my clay wheels down in less than a year. then came the plastic wheels. I knew a girl skateboarded back then who had this 4 foot long skateboard with really different trucks. They allowed carving turns nicely and had springs that theoretically held the trucks straight when you weren't turning I guess. There was a spring on each side that attached next to the wheels. She let me use it a bit. it was really smooth turning.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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