new surf videos (beginner level)

[frostless]

So it has been a while since last update. Maybe now it is the time to upload new ones for your entertainment.
Still a beginner and probably will stay this level for long long time ( hope it will NOT be forever)
I managed to catch some tiny waves and ride straight but still have not figure out how to cross waves and ride the faces,,
below are the clips

this one caught it but rode to the flat quick and it was a short ride

this one was a weak one not much speed

this one just being pushed back to shore by white wash

I know they dont look pro nor even competent at all but any advice?
Plz be GENTLE for a beginner,,,,,

[dtc]

Your stance is a little bit heavy on the back foot - it seems like you are propping for stability on the back leg. Particularly in the first two, you can see the nose is a bit high in the air

However...thats a minor point. The major point is that you need to turn! That second wave was crying out for a turn - could have gone either way really. And that last one, had you turn to the right (your right) you wouldnt have had the wave flip your tail over and make you fall but you could have cruised along and then done a turn into the beach.

Anyway, turn!

Look where you want to go and then point your shoulder and finger where you want to go ie dont pull your arm across your body, point with your shoulder, straight arm at 180 degrees from your shoulder and use your finger to point. Do it on dry land - stand in a surfing stance, point as said and feel how it then transfers into your hips and then changes your weight distribution at foot level (note - on a small wave you may have to move your back foot back a little bit to get the leverage to bring the nose around).

Dont lean in the direction you want to go - turn your upper body.

Personally that would be what I suggest you concentrate on - just try to turn. Even if you turn and get a 1 second ride.

here are some useful suggestions from wkk's blog (lots of photos)

http://alohaki.jugem.jp/?search=turn

[frostless]

Your stance is a little bit heavy on the back foot - it seems like you are propping for stability on the back leg. Particularly in the first two, you can see the nose is a bit high in the air

However...thats a minor point. The major point is that you need to turn! That second wave was crying out for a turn - could have gone either way really. And that last one, had you turn to the right (your right) you wouldnt have had the wave flip your tail over and make you fall but you could have cruised along and then done a turn into the beach.

Anyway, turn!

Look where you want to go and then point your shoulder and finger where you want to go ie dont pull your arm across your body, point with your shoulder, straight arm at 180 degrees from your shoulder and use your finger to point. Do it on dry land - stand in a surfing stance, point as said and feel how it then transfers into your hips and then changes your weight distribution at foot level (note - on a small wave you may have to move your back foot back a little bit to get the leverage to bring the nose around).

Dont lean in the direction you want to go - turn your upper body.

Personally that would be what I suggest you concentrate on - just try to turn. Even if you turn and get a 1 second ride.

here are some useful suggestions from wkk's blog (lots of photos)

http://alohaki.jugem.jp/?search=turn

Thanks for the comments, will look at the blog and try to improve in my next session

[Big H]

A little use of the "zoom" function wouldn't hurt either....

[pmcaero]

getting a good frontside bottom turn was a big effort for me. A lot of times I would end up in the flats and stall before starting my turn.
The key, if you don't have a very nimble board, is to angle your take-off and also force the board in the direction you want it to go as you are popping up. Use hands, weight, twisting, whatever it takes to get that board in the direction you want as you are popping up. You don't have to be at the bottom to initiate a bottom turn

[dtc]

getting a good frontside bottom turn was a big effort for me. A lot of times I would end up in the flats and stall before starting my turn.
The key, if you don't have a very nimble board, is to angle your take-off and also force the board in the direction you want it to go as you are popping up. Use hands, weight, twisting, whatever it takes to get that board in the direction you want as you are popping up. You don't have to be at the bottom to initiate a bottom turn

Good point - turning, especially on smaller/slower waves, isnt the classic down the face, bottom turn deal. Its pop up and mid face turn - you actually never want to get to the flats. Angling on take off, say 30 degrees (although you can start with less eg 10 deg), and you are part way there. As you pop up you are already looking down the line, where you want to go.

[frostless]

getting a good frontside bottom turn was a big effort for me. A lot of times I would end up in the flats and stall before starting my turn.

Actually what is more challenging for me is not sure what direction the wave is going to break. I know that before taking off I need to look over the shoulder and decide which way to go. But I never really have this ability.. I always admired those experienced surfers who can always turn to surf the unbroken side.

I should probably gain more about the ocean knowledge.

[dtc]

Just think about the swell direction and the sand bar. The sand bar isnt going to move, so when the swell hits it, does it hit at an angle? If yes, then its going to break in one direction all the time.

If the swell hits straight on, then its a bit harder - close down or not much to surf. Sometimes if the swell is generally straight, you will have some rights and some lefts due to slight variations in the swell direction. These can be tricky days

This is why one part of a beach might have good waves and another close outs - the sand bar is at a slightly different angle in the different spots and the swell direction hits it differently. One beach I surf at has right handers from a NE swell and left handers from a SE swell from the same sandbar, but you dont surf it in a southerly at all

The waves in your videos are are a bit all over the place in terms of picking a direction, but generally they are breaking right (ie you should be turning to your right - breaking to the left from the camera's viewpoint). You can watch from the shore and its usually easy to pick it up before you enter. Even try a different spot on the beach until you find somewhere with a consistent direction.

From the shore look and find the spot that has a consistent break in one direction and the take off point. Note a landmark on the beach (a tree or even just mark a line with your foot). Paddle out and line up with that mark (keep in mind that this spot will change as the tide changes, but its a start)

Then just go out and turn right (or left) all the time. Maybe you get a few wrong but at least you are turning - the worst thing to do is to think 'i dont know which way to go so I will go straight'. That gets you nowhere

Eventually you will pick up a feeling, a perception in your body more than from your eyes. A slight tilt towards one way or the other from the shoulder of the wave

Try bodyboarding as well, because you can catch heaps of waves more easily. If you have time - I know if I have a choice its always surfing, not bodyboarding

http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/1085 ... read-waves

https://www.swimoutlet.com/guides/how-t ... or-surfing

[Big H]

Sitting on the beach and spending time looking at your break at different tide levels and different swell heights is really important. Learn how the water moves where you surf! Watch how the waves break....practice reading them, guessing which will be a right or left, which will close out and which will hold up....the more you practice reading the better you will get at it and by consequence your surfing will improve if only because your wave selection is improved.

[pmcaero]

Actually what is more challenging for me is not sure what direction the wave is going to break. I know that before taking off I need to look over the shoulder and decide which way to go.

from your videos it looks like a near what is called "close out" where the wave breaks all over its length at the same time. it's pretty hard to gauge the direction and even then you need to be flying down the line to beat it.
is there a better place nearby for you?

[Namu]

Do you have any longer videos that show more of your paddle and pop-up?

Your feet! You are not moving them! You have to move your feet! Make sure you are in a stance that allows you to move your feet (video 3 - poo stance). Like dtc said, it looks like you are positioned too far back on your board, in all three videos the nose of your board is out of the water causing you to stall the board, wobble, then white water or wave reforming catches up to you and knocks you off the board. You could try this:

1. Lay further up the board while paddling so you pop-up closer to the front of the board
2. When you pop-up throw your legs forward and under you so your feet land closer to the front of the board
3. Once you pop-up shuffle your feet towards the nose to pick up some speed to get away from the breaking part of the wave.
4. If the wave gets steep (video 3) then you can shuffle backwards to lift your nose away from the water and avoid pearling.

Shuffling forwards and backwards on your board to speed up or slow down, or pull your nose out of the water if it gets steep. Once you feel comfortable moving up and down the board, you can learn to position your body weight on the board for a small trim turn, or setup a large carving turn. You need speed before you can do a carving turn.

Pmcaero mentioned an angled take-off, if your board is already turned slightly when you catch the wave, 1-o'clock or 11-o'clock, in the direction you want to go, you only need to turn a bit more to trim down the wave.

Practice catching waves and turning while laying down on your board, using your hands to put pressure on the inside or outside rail to adjust trim while on the wave.

Surfsimply has some great videos that you can study to work on your technique and practice new skills.

http://surfsimply.com/surf-simply-tutorials/

Watch the first three videos before you watch the video on trimming and carving turns.

You are improving, way better than that video you posted in July!

A good way to practice your footwork is to catch an unbroken wave and ride it in all the way to the beach, even after the wave breaks it will force you to move your feet to keep the board gliding as the wave flattens out, if the wave reforms, it will force you to adjust again as it gets steeper. Once you understand the sensation of the board gliding and how to keep it gliding, you can work on a gentle lean turn to trim left or right in the whitewater. Once you learn how to gain or maintain speed on an unbroken wave you can shuffle to the rear of the board for a carving turn.

Learn to glide first, then turn.

[waikikikichan]

this one just being pushed back to shore by white wash

I don't think you understand what "white wash" or riding white water is. That has some "face" with a crumbling lip above it. To the bottom right of the screen, that is all white wash/water. Look like you were gliding along nicely (until the dismount).

[waikikikichan]

this one was a weak one not much speed

Actually what is more challenging for me is not sure what direction the wave is going to break. I know that before taking off I need to look over the shoulder and decide which way to go. But I never really have this ability.. I always admired those experienced surfers who can always turn to surf the unbroken side.

Look again at the rider on the far right of the screen. He angles in and is trimming BEFORE he gets up to his feet.

The reason you're not going to the side, is because your looking at the nose of the board ( probably your fear of pearling ), You're trying to "WILL" the nose to stay up, but all it causes is for you back to bend forward and make the nose going even more down.

I don't think you have time to look back and paddle at your stage.( That's why taking a lesson with a instructor is good, it's an extra set of eyes ). I think it'll be like padding the top of your head and rubbing your belly at the same time. You're just going to have to use some Situation Awareness and your senses other than sight. Can you HEAR which side the white water is coming from ? Can you FEEL the angle pressure on one side of the rail or toes increase ?

It was recommended you turn, which I agree, But on this particular wave, after you pop up you do this little hip-jive, jerk the steering wheel action. Not good, that disturbs the flow of the board. Relax, just flow with the ocean.

[frostless]

Shuffling forwards and backwards on your board to speed up or slow down, or pull your nose out of the water if it gets steep. Once you feel comfortable moving up and down the board, you can learn to position your body weight on the board for a small trim turn, or setup a large carving turn. You need speed before you can do a carving turn.

A good way to practice your footwork is to catch an unbroken wave and ride it in all the way to the beach, even after the wave breaks it will force you to move your feet to keep the board gliding as the wave flattens out, if the wave reforms, it will force you to adjust again as it gets steeper. Once you understand the sensation of the board gliding and how to keep it gliding, you can work on a gentle lean turn to trim left or right in the whitewater. Once you learn how to gain or maintain speed on an unbroken wave you can shuffle to the rear of the board for a carving turn.
.

I think one reason I tended to stand a bit backward was because I thought I could turn the board easier this way, I actually learnt this from youtube. Turns out I first need to gain speed ( move body weight forward) first then doing a turn becomes possible. Next session I am going to make some adjustments.

[frostless]

I don't think you understand what "white wash" or riding white water is. That has some "face" with a crumbling lip above it. To the bottom right of the screen, that is all white wash/water. Look like you were gliding along nicely (until the dismount).

Anything dont look "green" but look foamy and small I call them white wash . I indeed dont know much about ocean and I think that is one reason holding me making bigger improvement.

[frostless]

Look again at the rider on the far right of the screen. He angles in and is trimming BEFORE he gets up to his feet.

The reason you're not going to the side, is because your looking at the nose of the board ( probably your fear of pearling ), You're trying to "WILL" the nose to stay up, but all it causes is for you back to bend forward and make the nose going even more down.

I don't think you have time to look back and paddle at your stage.( That's why taking a lesson with a instructor is good, it's an extra set of eyes ). I think it'll be like padding the top of your head and rubbing your belly at the same time. You're just going to have to use some Situation Awareness and your senses other than sight. Can you HEAR which side the white water is coming from ? Can you FEEL the angle pressure on one side of the rail or toes increase ? .

Watching experienced surfer surfing sometimes makes me angry. I spend so much effort to make it to the out back feeling competely exhausted but they paddling back/surfing in and then back so easy. They always make the right decisiosn and catch the best wave. But probably thats why they are experienced.

I also notice when I am up riding I spend 2/3 time watching the nose and my foot. I dont know why( fear of pearling maybe?) but I think this is one of the bad habit I developed from the beginning.

I did hire some coaches and they did make my life easier. They called out "left" "right"! when I was about to pop up and I just went where they directed me to go. But after all I cant surf with a coach all life so I still need to figure this out.

[dtc]

from your videos it looks like a near what is called "close out" where the wave breaks all over its length at the same time. it's pretty hard to gauge the direction and even then you need to be flying down the line to beat it.
is there a better place nearby for you?

This is a close out....also a new way to go over the falls

https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ1PxcGjLx0/?hl=en

[oldmansurfer]

Not new, I have that maneuver down pat

[oldmansurfer]

That is a double wave closeout. I sometimes have to bail over the fall like that but lately I have held onto to board and do a kind of upside down duck dive or turtle turn because the wave passes over me and I come out the back

[pmcaero]

This is a close out....also a new way to go over the falls

brutal