This video was shot a few months ago. It was on a sunny small day (1-2 feet) where I paddled around for 2 hours without catching any "real" one. So the time when I paddled for this one I really felt the tail was lifted up and the whole board was pushed forward. I guesses I finally catch one and then I pop up and ready for the ride. Unfortunately when I was up I felt the board was sort of stuck in the middle part of the part and i had this feeling being lifted up in the air. I lost the balance immediately. It is a funny experience when you stand up and you think the wave is really big because what you see is the wave height plus your toe-to-eye height. Anyway I did not really rode much.
So was it a green unbroken wave and did I catch it? What could have been done to have a better ride? I know the wave closed 2 seconds I was up. But surely there is something to improve right? Might I could paddle for to go a bit further of the wave or maybe I should lean to railside to move a bit sideways?