Latest Surfs...

[IanCaio]

After spending 3 days away solving college stuff and watching surf movies I was thirsty for some surfing. Called a friend of mine yesterday and we went on the hollower break.

2ft Hawaiian, not much size but some good strength. Some waves were breaking a little closer to the shore on a shallow sand bank. The drops were steep and I was proud I could just stick to my board on some of them. I did wipe out a lot, nose dived on some drops (this new board seems a little easier to pearl, think it has less nose rocker, not blaming it though), got caught up by the foam trimming. On one of those wipe outs I hit my lower back a little hard on the sand, which was not cool, but I didn't injury myself (apart from an annoying pain during the rest of the session). Besides this one, I didn't hit the sand on other even worse wipe outs. Probably the first got me more aware. But I still gotta work on my shallow breaks wipe out techniques, some times I just felt out of control (in front of the board, "upside down" but with hands first).

I had about 4 or 5 nice waves. On backside I could try some carves and snaps, but not strong ones. I noticed when I try a snap on closing sections, when the lip is coming, it usually catches the board. Maybe that means I'm not going vertical fast enough (or not vertical at all, just angled), or that I'm not unweighting the board when hitting the lip, which sounds like something I should do on those cases?
On frontside I had one long ride, did a carve and then the last section merged with another small waves coming in another direction (facing me in an angle). Would be a nice section to finish with an air, if I could do one . Since there was not much else to do, I kinda hit the section and jump. Didn't work . There were some nice f/s waves that I had to abort so I wouldn't run over some people paddling out on the line .

I noticed this new board is easier to pearl and even when paddling, if the nose sinks a bit sometimes it gets a little "stuck" underwater. Like I'm paddling and it's getting even lower, so I've to adjust body positioning or use my knee on the tail to pop it out of surface. Guess it's just getting used to it.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out yesterday to Blackrock (15 minute paddle) because there were a bunch of waves out there. On my way out just 20 or 30 yards from the beach I saw a wave coming in and it looked shoulder to head high and maybe was going to break left so I took off and got a nice ride, bottom turn and off the top and repeat. There were 2 kids in that area who were just learning to surf so I went out to Blackrock (another 500 yards out). It was chaotic with wave breaking everywhere but mostly just crumbly waves and I couldn't figure out the lineup so I went back in after trying to catch something and failing. Now inside the two kids were gone and there was three guys on a two man kayak catching waves. I hung out a little while to see how they did. They didn't do so well but they were having a lot of fun. Two guys would paddle out catch a wave and come in then they would rotate to the next guy who stayed in the water. The only wave I caught that was worth mentioning was the first one. So today I went back to the same area where I caught that wave and caught a bunch of lefts. Beautiful day and no one out but me and my wife. I was trying to use a part of the reef to lineup because right in the best spot were a couple huge clumps of coral or boulders surrounded by sand. It worked for a while but the conditions were changing. Oh well fun day.

[oldmansurfer]

Yesterday I went to Middle Horners because the middle sandbar break had three kids and they were having so much fun I didn't want to go ruin it for them. The waves were head high to slightly higher and it was just me for a while then another guy joined me. It was tough to lineup because the waves were of inconsistent size so I would be inside of some and to far out for some. That break you have to be pretty close to the right place to take off. I managed to do some fun turns and rode one wave probably about as well as it could have been riden. Today I went to the sandbar break and it was overhead like around 4 to 5 foot size. The first wave I caught didn't break. Often in that area the second or thrid wave will be better because the first wave has a lot of chop and it smooths out after the first wave so I caught this wave but it flattened out and was going to the shallow inside area before breaking. The second wave was awesome! I felt like I did everything exactly right. It was a perfect dance with the wave. I had a couple off the lips and a cutback and some more on the wave everything smoothly flowing from one to the other. Well....except on the end of the wave, I had to kick the board away and dive. I think I would have gotten 5 points for that ride in a WSL contest....ok so may 4 points because I didn't do a finishing maneuver....ok maybe 3 points because I didn't do anything exceptional but it was an awesome wave. After that wave I had a few waves where the lip hit my board as I was popping up and made me place my feet in the wrong place. I made the drop but felt like a dork for the rest of the waves because I couldn't find the right footing. It was the best wave I have caught in a while. Funny thing was when I did my cutback I thought about the recent cutback thread here LOL You are following me out int the lineup Anyway it was fun

[Big H]

Went out to batu bolong for the first time in awhile yesterday.....swell was big enough to thin the crowd to a manageable level (that was the tipping point when I was deciding where to go)....used the new 9'1" HP longboard and had alot of fun....one of the regulars snapped his longboard; waves were big but it was pretty clean and was walling up so nicely....

Here are pics from the spot earlier in the week; conditions were similar yesterday.

[Nogs]

Went for my first surf in over a month. Have made my way home to Lofoten Islands from Ireland to visit my family, and the forecast was quite promising. However, the weather was beautiful but the ocean completely flat and we ended up going into the water just for fun. My mates struggled to get the small waves with their massive longboards, and I was mostly bodyboarding with my 6'6 fish - was fun to go for a swim though! Sold my board to the local surf shop as well, so now I'm buying big, something I should have done when I got my first one on Sri Lanka 3 years ago. To all those people who recommended me to not go small, I sincerely apologize for not listening.

[dtc]

Went for my first surf in over a month. Have made my way home to Lofoten Islands from Ireland to visit my family, and the forecast was quite promising. However, the weather was beautiful but the ocean completely flat and we ended up going into the water just for fun. My mates struggled to get the small waves with their massive longboards, and I was mostly bodyboarding with my 6'6 fish - was fun to go for a swim though! Sold my board to the local surf shop as well, so now I'm buying big, something I should have done when I got my first one on Sri Lanka 3 years ago. To all those people who recommended me to not go small, I sincerely apologize for not listening.

I had to look up Lofoten Islands (sorry!), looks like an amazing place. Do you actually get waves? Would be a great place for sailing and 'messing about with boats', assuming the water temp doesn't kill you.

Have seen a few videos of Irish waves recently, guy called Fergal Smith - the waves are huge huge (but plenty big) but look really heavy. And freezing. Pretty much the opposite of what is fun for me, but impressive to watch other people doing it

[Nogs]

Went for my first surf in over a month. Have made my way home to Lofoten Islands from Ireland to visit my family, and the forecast was quite promising. However, the weather was beautiful but the ocean completely flat and we ended up going into the water just for fun. My mates struggled to get the small waves with their massive longboards, and I was mostly bodyboarding with my 6'6 fish - was fun to go for a swim though! Sold my board to the local surf shop as well, so now I'm buying big, something I should have done when I got my first one on Sri Lanka 3 years ago. To all those people who recommended me to not go small, I sincerely apologize for not listening.

I had to look up Lofoten Islands (sorry!), looks like an amazing place. Do you actually get waves? Would be a great place for sailing and 'messing about with boats', assuming the water temp doesn't kill you.

Have seen a few videos of Irish waves recently, guy called Fergal Smith - the waves are huge huge (but plenty big) but look really heavy. And freezing. Pretty much the opposite of what is fun for me, but impressive to watch other people doing it

Mate, most people would struggle to find Norway on a map so don't worry There are waves yes, but the spots are few and it's quite a distance in between. There is almost always swell and waves, problem is usually the wind and weather - it's harsh for sure and I've been quite a few times out there with good waves but with the offshore just spraying water everywhere. Google "unstad surf" for some examples of what conditions you can get. It's not world class of course, but good enough! The islands are beautiful thank you, and if you're into sailing, fishing, hiking, MTBs, climbing, skiing etc.. it's a great place. Not too many living here, mostly families so it's not an option for me yet, it's just too boring for a young guy.

Ireland's surf is like you described, but there are many slow beaches who are perfect for longboards. I'm a beginner so I never go out on the big waves, it's absolutely mental what some of the guys do out there, I have so much respect for them.

Check out this clip from Christ Burkhardt's trip to Lofoten. He talks a lot of BS about their struggles and how locals are not familiar with the ocean (it's the total opposite - the reason there are people here at all is because of the fish and the ocean, it's been the main resource since the viking age) but the footage is nice!

[dtc]

Check out this clip from Christ Burkhardt's trip to Lofoten. He talks a lot of BS about their struggles and how locals are not familiar with the ocean (it's the total opposite - the reason there are people here at all is because of the fish and the ocean, it's been the main resource since the viking age) but the footage is nice!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO7RRN-_LL4

I'm not totally convinced that would be much fun, but it's certainly beautiful

[Nogs]

Check out this clip from Christ Burkhardt's trip to Lofoten. He talks a lot of BS about their struggles and how locals are not familiar with the ocean (it's the total opposite - the reason there are people here at all is because of the fish and the ocean, it's been the main resource since the viking age) but the footage is nice!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO7RRN-_LL4

I'm not totally convinced that would be much fun, but it's certainly beautiful

Keeps the crowds away

[IanCaio]

I haven't surfed as frequently as I wanted to these last weeks. On my last steps to finish college (which I really want to be over right now, have a hard presentation coming ), and also, the cold (and lack of a real wet suit) is making it easy to use this college stuff as an excuse to stay home in the warm.. I went out today around midday, hoping the sun would be out and stronger. Wrong..

Well, there weren't much people out, which I found odd, and from the sand it didn't seem big. Maybe around 2' hawaiian. Once I got in I got tired quite quickly, maybe because my muscles are all sore from some training, and I realized current was strong and pulling towards the rocks. The waves were hollower than usual for some reason, and it seemed bigger after I got out (probably 3' hawaiian on series).
Surfing really is a sport of ups and downs, and today I can barely say I surfed. Spent all the time in water paddling, trying to keep clear from the rocks. Dropped on about 4 waves, made the drop on 2 backside ones. First seemed good, nice entry, clear and smooth bottom turn, setting the snap and then I put my feet on a place of the board with almost no wax and ruin my trick . I need to buy some wax..
Second wave just closed in front of me. Then after a while wind was messing the waves, and my arms were getting tired, which I don't think is good when currents are strong, so I went out.

[Nogs]

I haven't surfed as frequently as I wanted to these last weeks. On my last steps to finish college (which I really want to be over right now, have a hard presentation coming ), and also, the cold (and lack of a real wet suit) is making it easy to use this college stuff as an excuse to stay home in the warm.. I went out today around midday, hoping the sun would be out and stronger. Wrong..

Well, there weren't much people out, which I found odd, and from the sand it didn't seem big. Maybe around 2' hawaiian. Once I got in I got tired quite quickly, maybe because my muscles are all sore from some training, and I realized current was strong and pulling towards the rocks. The waves were hollower than usual for some reason, and it seemed bigger after I got out (probably 3' hawaiian on series).
Surfing really is a sport of ups and downs, and today I can barely say I surfed. Spent all the time in water paddling, trying to keep clear from the rocks. Dropped on about 4 waves, made the drop on 2 backside ones. First seemed good, nice entry, clear and smooth bottom turn, setting the snap and then I put my feet on a place of the board with almost no wax and ruin my trick . I need to buy some wax..
Second wave just closed in front of me. Then after a while wind was messing the waves, and my arms were getting tired, which I don't think is good when currents are strong, so I went out.

I know the feeling mate! At least you got some paddling done

[Nogs]

Drove up to my spot and hoped for some good waves - wasn't entirely flat but not far from it! Jumped in anyway with a few tourists. Waves came left right and center (the banks have moved apparently, it's inconsistent) and it was very difficult to figure out where to be. Had 2 waves where I barely popped up, rode it for 2 secs and then all the power went out of it. The only ones that got a few ok ones were surfing longboards (surprise surprise). I jumped out of the water after an hour, felt like I was worse than ever and just really wanted to snap my board in half in frustration. Good thing I had made arrangements with the surf shop to sell it, so I just got my 5mm off me and handed over my fish - delighted to get rid so I can buy myself a mother&$&$&$ tank of a board. IanCaio, surf is a sport of ups and downs yes, but the feeling afterwards is almost always the same regardless of the session - you just feel tired in a really good and content way. Love it!

[dtc]

Where are all the trees?

[oldmansurfer]

If it is an old place of human habitation maybe all the trees were cut down long ago for materials to build houses and firewood?

[oldmansurfer]

It's a three day weekend for me but the surf forecast doesn't look so great. It was raining and the water was muddy and it looked like there wasn't any surf but I went anyway. There were little tubing waves by the rivermouth. Only me surfing there and a turtle and probably some sharks since they like muddy rivermouths but it was fun. I got a couple of shoulder tubes where my back shoulder was covered by the tube and on the wave I caught to go in I got completely tubed and it collapsed on me and I stood and rode out of it and made a couple more turns on the wave. The biggest wave I caught which was about head high I didn't make the drop which is unusual for me. The waves were lurching up and that one did more than I thought it would and I ended up getting sucked up the face and catching the outside rail on the bottom of the wave and drilled into the sand. No injury I think but I find in my old age I will know tomorrow much better. I don't know why but it seems like I get these injuries surfing all minor but I don't notice them till the next day. It seems unlikely but I will wait to be sure LOL Anyway besides falling on the biggest wave I caught I did manage a nice cutback on a small wave, but these were small but steep waves. Using my 7'6" funboard. I wouldn't mind a couple more days like that

[oldmansurfer]

Second day was about the same. The waves were a little junker, lots of double waves and the ones that weren't were short rides. On the good side the water was cleaner and it was sunny. I shared the break with my wife on her sponge and log that was floating around. I did manage to get a shoulder tube ride while dancing around on the inside rail on a really uneven doubled up weird little wave and did a couple decent turns on other waves. Reading the waves was a little more difficult. Some of the double waves would look like they were going to break but only the back peak would break leaving the face to break once it hit the really shallow sandbar on the inside. Anyway it was fun and I caught a bunch of waves.

[Nogs]

Where are all the trees?

I'm not quite sure mate. I know my uncle told me once, but I can't really remember. There are a few types of trees that don't grow this far north, and so a lot is planted apparently. But this place in particular hasn't not many trees, rest of the island has got more. That being said, there are A LOT of steep mountains with no soil, just rock, so that doesn't really help I guess.

[oldmansurfer]

Third day in the same place. There were lots of waves but it was really challenging. They were breaking all over the place and many double waves. I had so many waves that I was either too far inside too far outside or too far to the right or left to catch them. But then there were lots of waves. When I was younger I would spend a couple hours working out the break and figure out how to make the board I am riding work in the waves that are there. As it was I caught one wave that I got a cutback on one of those where I went too far down the shoulder but made it back just fine. These waves were sectioning. The outside would toss over then often crumble then on the inside tubing over a shallow sandbar. Many of the waves were doubled up so it made the takeoff tricky. Challenging but fun. If it were big enough to scare me I would have been more careful about wave selection but as it was I would try to catch a wave that I was too far inside or too far outside to catch or at least it may have seemed that way except I managed to catch some of them. Some times you never know what you can do unless you try. I caught a wave in that my wife rode along with me but I got onto the front part of the double wave and it went at a different angle.

[IanCaio]

Well, not much to write here, except I've been on a "bad days" streak.. Three days in a row, today I can't even say I've surfed a wave. Made the drop on some waves, but they just closed in front of me, were fast and hollow, but not big (1-2ft hawaiian probably). Also got pounded a lot and broke a side fin. Not sure how, there was no piece of it left in the fin cup. So there's even the possibility it just slipped out. I know I'll either have to ride a thruster with a single middle fin (which doesn't sound like a good idea at all) or buy another cheap fins set. No money to buy one of those expensive ones.
I could look for some side fin on some surfboard fixing shops, but I guess slight differences on the fins could make the board unstable?

[dtc]

Some fin companies - esp if you have 'cheap' fins at the moment, the standard M5s or whatever - offer replacement fins ie you can buy just one fin. Ask at your surf shop. Having a different centre fin to the sides is ok but having different sides could create some instability