Here are some opinions on the subject I found in an old thread on Swellinfo.com. I hope it's ok to copy paste some of it.
There's no consensus on the subject it seems: paddle harder, paddle less, use a board with enough volume or use a board with as low volume as possible to be IN instead of ON the wave..
It's all true depending your skill level I think, if u know how to position u don't need to paddle hard and when u have enough paddling strength and endurance you can use a smaller volumed board..
http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthre ... teep-DropsSurfers on Swellinfo in 2010 wrote:
- First, you need to have the right board as others have mentioned. There needs to be some rocker on the board in order to avoid pearling. The less rocker, the more you will need to adjust your stance/balance towards the back of the board.
Second, you need to commit entirely to the wave and paddle with more force than what is usually required for a crumbling wave. Start paddling into the wave earlier as well, the steeper the wave, the more difficult it becomes to catch it late. You should also keep your head down and weight forward, so that you put all of your energy into catching the wave. Confidence is key.
- I think timing plays a big part in catching steep waves. Trying to catch it early helps a lot, so if you see a big set coming, start paddling and generating speed, and catch the wave early so you are up before the wave becomes "steep" and starts to break. I think this is a good way to practice your drops, gain some confidence, and after some time you can take off the steep wave with less problems.
- On fast, steep, hollow waves...there is no reason to paddle hard or even kick for that matter. Just a simple 1,2 and up will do it. Late drops are where it's at. Until you can do a late drop...you are missing a very valuable part of surfing. Mush burgers can require the paddle from hell and kicking like you got a great white behind you.
But you absolutly don't need to paddle like a psyco for fast hollow waves...maybe thats what you are doing wrong?
- build up your knowledge of specific spots and their quirks and features and you'll figure out where to be (and when best to be there vis a vi the tide) so you're not having to make such late drops. Plus the right board is a huge factor. I have a couple boards (shaped by locals who surf the same waves, not someone in say, Laguna Beach) with extra nose rocker for those steep, low tide dredgers.
- First and foremost, however, your equipment has to be able to do the job. It sounds like you have a fish(y) board and that will really limit you. The nose rocker is most-likely pretty straight, so unless you're surfing shoulder-high or higher, straight drop-ins aren't going to work out too well for you. Since it's wide, you're probably going to pinch a rail on an angled take off.
If you encounter steep waves frequently, you may want to start looking for a narrower board with a good deal of rocker. This is just my opinion.
- Proper board- to me the most important thing for steeper waves is a board that you are CONFIDENT with. There are lots of specific design characteristics that will help you, but it's 100 times more important that you believe you are going to make the drop before you even stand up.
- Might sound like common sense but keep the nose up.As you surf more and more you'll relize what waves to catch and what waves to pass on.Alot of times after I pass on a wave I check it out to see how it broke.
- Four pages of responses on equipment ,stance, concave, yada yada. I promise you your problem is you're not paddling hard enough. Bigger waves = longer period = faster = sucks up more water = you need to paddle harder and faster, when you think you're ready to drop, paddle once more.
- Simply, and excuse my french, you just need to grow a set. Thats the difference between surfers and bad ones, how hard they charge. You can only take but so many poundings before you find a way in, its human nature.
Its amazing what you get away with on a surfboard if you just go for it.
- Surfing steep, hollow stuff requires the least amount of paddling in my opinion. 3 hard paddles will get you in it. Its all about the lineup, and big cajones. If your scared it aint gonna work.
- Just go out there and eat sand, again and again and again. If you're thinking "how do I take off on this wave?" you're already thinking too much. Just do it. I know that probably sounds like an over-simplification, but it's really not. Paddle like you're having a seizure and just go for it. Don't give up, just eat more sand, and eventually you will transition from only being able to take off on the mushy ones. The best way to do this is to surf in as many different conditions as possible.
- Ultimately I think it may depend on the volume and or length of your board.
For steep drops. I prefer a really low volume board. I want to be "in" the wave. Not on top of it. If you are in the wave and under that lip, it can't throw you. On a high volume board (most people surf boards that are too much volume) the lip can toss you out further and make your drop harder to land. Get a board that floats you around the rib cage, above your belly button and even up almost to your pecks. Swim your board, instead of paddling it.
