by oldmansurfer » Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:50 pm
I have been noticing lately mostly because I never did them on small waves till recently that my frontside snap off the lips on small waves are different from bigger waves. When I do one on an overhead high wave I mostly rely on the power of the wave to push me back down the wave and it seems to be one smooth turn. When I do one on less than head high waves from my bottom turn I start to torque my upper body to the position I want it in after the turn and when I hit the lip and snap the board back down I push really hard with my legs because there isn't enough power in the wave and there is a moment where my hips are not back under me yet and I have to turn the board back under me again before my hip drops to below my shoulder in my normal stance. Maybe I am just noticing this because when my fat belly pops out of the way it is really noticeable. Anyone else notice this?
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.