by oldmansurfer » Tue Feb 23, 2016 7:35 pm
by oldmansurfer » Thu Mar 10, 2016 6:59 pm
by oldmansurfer » Wed Mar 16, 2016 1:23 am
by oldmansurfer » Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:45 pm
by oldmansurfer » Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:04 pm
by oldmansurfer » Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:30 pm
by dtc » Sun Apr 03, 2016 5:41 am
by oldmansurfer » Sun Apr 03, 2016 4:23 pm
by oldmansurfer » Sun Apr 03, 2016 5:14 pm
by dtc » Sun Apr 03, 2016 11:42 pm
by DaveF » Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:49 pm
by Big H » Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:53 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:I finished the book Welcome to Paradise : Now go to Hell and I didn't particularly like it. It was basically about the surf scene on the North Shore of Oahu. Not much about surfing and the writers perspective is one of a writer who doesn't really get what the surf scene is about. He even called Pinetrees a surf spot on Kauai a reef break when it is sand. I guess it does give "A" perspective of the North Shore scene even if it is an outsiders perspective. I have started the book "Board" and I like this style of writing much better but once again I am reminded of never going through what most people went through learning to surf.
by oldmansurfer » Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:30 pm
DaveF wrote:Just saw this thread and thought I'd jump on a say a big thanks to Oldmansurfer for checking out my book, Board. Always appreciate anyone taking the time to read it and value whatever feedback I get on it. Reading Barbarian Days myself now and it's outstanding. Making me wish I'd had an early introduction to surfing. Out there now though, which I guess is all that matters. Thanks again.
by DaveF » Mon Apr 04, 2016 6:17 pm
by dtc » Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:15 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:Awesome to have you here. Hope you hang around and post some more. I also hope you are actually riding waves now.
by pmcaero » Tue Apr 05, 2016 6:14 pm
dtc wrote:He had quite a remarkable life; the fact that he ended up as a top writer given his years of trekking around no where just to surf is interesting - I guess more that he 'settled' into a life in a big city than the fact he could write as well as surf (we all know surfers can do anything...).
by oldmansurfer » Wed Apr 06, 2016 12:52 am
by oldmansurfer » Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:12 am
by dtc » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:38 am
pmcaero wrote:dtc wrote:He had quite a remarkable life; the fact that he ended up as a top writer given his years of trekking around no where just to surf is interesting - I guess more that he 'settled' into a life in a big city than the fact he could write as well as surf (we all know surfers can do anything...).
I recently read that book, and that's how I felt too. After bumming around in his 20s he settles into a life with decent income (I would think, based on all those surf trips) ...lucky guy I guess
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