Riding the waves of change.. the going shorter addiction

[Big H]

Meant to say Firewire Kool aid....

[Tudeo]

....I get now what Tudeo was saying about his Dominator love...

My Dominator love got a little dent the other day when I took it out in a jacking and pitching westcoast reefbreak. It did a lot of pearling when I took off from the peak, the quick upwards motion of the wave behind me on takeoff lifted the fat and wide tail too much up, and pushed the nose straight down..

With the Dom I can still takeoff on this wave when I position a bit on the shoulder, then it's crazy speed from the start. A bit too far out on the shoulder and the wave passes thru under u, not an easy wave.

Next time I bring my heavy rockered 6'10" hpsb to try the peak again.

[Big H]

Yeah...that's kinda what I found with the 6'0" when I tried it in better waves....was hard to control from the get go because the tail would go straight up and not dig in at all.....then it was like stepping on a bar of soap, board would take OFF. Taking it out again today to the west with some expected on shores knocking off the tops like DBBB says....it liked the smaller waves of yesterday; really easy to accelerate and get into the wave (light and volume) so you can sit on it till the last second then shoot in....6'2" definitely a better fit for me.

[Big H]

Ahhh. I used to have a Jimmy Lewis board like that when I lived in Maui. Loved it, I actually had a few Jimmy Lewis boards and all were really fun. Most were SUP's. (Sorry everyone but we used to SUP every morning before work). Jimmy lived in Maui so his boards were very popular on Maui. I wish I could have had that board in PU but all of his boards were epoxy and made in China. Jimmy's health was really bad so I think he stopped or slowed down considerably making PU and sold only epoxy. Loved his boards though especially that mal. Have you seen the fish he makes? Always wanted one of those as well but ended up moving to CA so never got one. If you see one of epoxy fish boards at a decent price I would pick it up as those are supposed to be really fun. I enjoyed seeing a picture of that board - it reminded me of fun times, fun waves, warm water and good people. We had a group of people that used to surf every morning before work in Maui, occasionally Jimmy would come down because he was friends with a friend but anyways... we had great sessions every morning back then. miss those days.

I just bought a replacement for my longboard; I have been looking for something like this for awhile because I wanted a longboard that was more lithe......it came up yesterday secondhand, a Jimmy Lewis HP Longboard 9'1", lots of rocker, 22" wide and if it is anything like the mini mal I've got, it's going to be a load of fun. It's a mess right now; the previous owner liked different coloured waxes in patterns; I'll put a picture up after I clean it up. Going to take it out tomorrow; pre swell surf still small so I'll give it a run before the swell which arrives Sunday.


...and it's pink.



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