Latest Surfs...

[Big H]

Just to induce drool....I googled my spot and found this picture....it was very similar to this today on the right, just a bit bigger than the picture.....left was same size but broke even faster....I saw two guys make the right....one was pitted super deep and then he called it right after that wave (wanted to end on a high note I guess)....no one made the left, but I tried....

[IanCaio]

After a little over a month without surfing, I could hit the water for 2 days!

First day, got a little late on the spot, 1-2ft hawaiian, around waist high, chubby and inconsistent waves. But it was enough to get me stooked, could surf a few good ones . I had to surf without a leash though, my aunt didn't remember where she left my surfing gear, so I had to go with my old board (6'1" thinner board) that had glassed fins. So after all, the weaker conditions were actually good. I would wipe out trying to hug the board , only had to swim after it once!

Second day, found my gear! Went to the more hollow spot, which had 2ft hawaiian, 3ft on unregular series. Once I got there I could get a few good waves. The only problem is that it is carnival week here, so like they say in Hawaii (or I think they do ) "Circus is in town". There were lots of people bathing, and even though many were being safe, bathing closer to shore, away from surfers, a few were being reckless, bathing close to where people were surfing, on deeper waters, and I had to abort a few waves because of those. Lifeguards were having a hard time whistling for them to get out. Despite that I had some good fun!
Later at afternoon the wind was getting the water really bumpy and most waves were closing out. I had a funny wipeout: When I was leaving water I couldn't just surf on my belly because of people bathing, so I paddled to the inside where I could stand, and walked diving when waves were coming. But then a big shore dumper came and I was exactly under the lip, so I was thrown in the sand and rolled a bit, until I resurfaced walking as nothiing had happened

I really needed some surfing!

[drowningbitbybit]

Nice conditions out there this morning... waves ranging between 2 and 4 ft, so there was something for everyone, but they were all pretty solid. Glassy smooth conditions too

Surfed the beachie because the tide was so high this morning that it was covering the point

[drowningbitbybit]

Oh, what a disappointment after yesterday! I thought today would be a touch smaller but glassy clean and nicely lined up... but, no, it was a lot bigger and a disorganised mess.
The worst thing though was the sweep - get into the wrong spot on the incoming tide and you were taking a trip to the next postcode.

[IanCaio]

I finally moved yesterday to the coast! Tomorrow is my first day at work, this semester might be a little heavy because I'll have to travel 300km sometimes to get some classes on college. Cheer for me! Hopefully I'll nail it

Went for a spot nearby by bus really early, dawn patrol, even got to see some drunk people coming back from the parties and an angry woman slamming a guys car door. As they say in that TV serie,"nothing good happens after 2am" .
Arrived at the spot, 1-2ft hawaiian, a little chubby, few better ones on series. Not only conditions weren't the best, but my board isn't the best for small mushy waves. I met some dudes on the beach, they had a car and gave me a ride to another spot in a nearby city. Had 2ft hawaiian too and more crowded, but more powerful and hollow, so it was much better. Didn't have any exceptional wave, got dropped in once (in a good one dammit! ) but it was cool for a day that I didn't expect to have any surf in!

[Big H]

Didn't have much time today; busy at work so I popped out next door to a break that was working nicely....for about 45 people.....that break can't handle anywhere near that many people....swell direction, wind, etc conspired to make a usually poor to mediocre break work as good as it ever does and with the perfect blue sky weather today the cell phone scouts turned my sleepy next door break into a circus......so I got in and went 50m offshore and paddled against the ripping sweep in that section of the bay.....was a good workout and ate up the half hour I had to spend.

[BaNZ]

This is me! Not recent, it was taken in Taiwan on my last surfing trip. It was windy and messy that day.

[oldmansurfer]

I am suffering from a dearth of waves here. On the first day of my weekend I surfed the sandbar and it was crumbly about waist high but inside there was a steep section in the shoredump that was about knee high or lower but it was steep so I tried to get into that section and ride it as far as I could (maybe 5 yards max) after another 10 yards of crumbly nothing. The second day I surfed the shallow reef area, and there were lots of waves....not very good wave but lots of them waist to knee high and crumbly. I spent my time trying to see how far in I could ride the waves and it was pretty far on some of them maybe a 30 yard ride all the way in to the shore (whoopie). The most exciting thing about surfing that area is the boulder right before the shoreline that I surfed over on occaisions and had to be careful to keep the board flat or it might hit it. Damn you El Nino

[BoMan]

I had a fun Valentines Day with my wife and daughter. Margaritas are not the breakfast of champions but they inspire new conversations. We were hoping to hear that our grandchild was on the way and we learned that she's getting a BUNNY.

On to the surf! The next day brought amazing weather for February with cloudless skies, 70 degree temps and calm winds. Small waves sent the progressive riders to find better spots and made for an unusually small line-up. The 2 to 3 foot breakers were perfect for my long board. I was able to catch 3 foot waves on the outside, slide through the flats, pick up 2 foot reforms, slide through the flats again and finish with 1 foot reforms. The rides were so long, I could jump off onto the beach! I stayed out way to long, drove home in the dark and definitely feel the pain today.

One sad note... We know how dangerous the ocean can be and do what we can to stay safe but sometimes nothing can be done. My beloved surfing cap - "DJ" - was washed away by an oncoming wave and disappeared forever in the deep. My bald head will never be the same!

DJ.JPG (5.25 KiB) Viewed 617 times

[drowningbitbybit]

We're getting the swell from Tropical Cyclone Winston at the moment and it's a bit of a swell event for the east coast

Not only is the size of the swell big, but the amount of water moving about is immense too. The notorious Gold Coast sweep from south to north is in full swing this week.
I got in at the point at currumbin... then was at the alley... then at laceys... and then at palm beach (that's best part of a mile away) within 10 minutes. I got a couple along the way, but then got out before I was any further away from home

[dtc]

Heard it was busy

[drowningbitbybit]

Heard it was busy

Yeah, the points - particularly Snapper - have been insane
And the usual crowd have all been there... you know, Fanning, Gilmore, those kind of people

However... apart from Snapper... all the other points have been badly affected by the sweep and so the crowd is constantly being swept along, which opens up opportunities. I was only out there for 20 mins today, and totally out of position most of the time, but the couple I got, I was surfing on my own

[oldmansurfer]

I went surfing this past weekend but it was pretty small again. I caught a couple of fun waves (knee to waist high) both days. The north shore was 50 feet and closing out. I wanted to go but didn't have the time (just kidding). North shore will be big again today and tomorrow....maybe they will run the Eddie Aikau big wave event

[dtc]

I went surfing this past weekend but it was pretty small again. I caught a couple of fun waves (knee to waist high) both days. The north shore was 50 feet and closing out. I wanted to go but didn't have the time (just kidding). North shore will be big again today and tomorrow....maybe they will run the Eddie Aikau big wave event

You saying you didn't want to surf these - and you call yourself a surfer...

9949162_G.jpg (27.15 KiB) Viewed 584 times

[312T4]

I'll be as short as I can.
Last Saturday at sunset at Tea Tree. All of a sudden the crowd left and my mate and I were left surfing the point (3ft average) alone! To add to that, the full moon came up.. and we add its silver light in front, helping watching for the waves, and the red susnet sky on the back, givin us sight for the rides..
unbelievable guys..
I'll never foget it.
No need to say we left in complete darkness.. a part from the moonlight!

[oldmansurfer]

Surf was small once again. I surfed the rivermouth sandbar yesterday and it was fun. Today I went a little further out to the reef break. There were short steep sections of waves but I was unable to lineup and catch a good one. The waves were inconsistent and breaking in several spots and you had to be right at the peak or the wave crumbled by the time I caught it. There was a slight current. I had some weird takeoffs due to not being in the right place and getting smacked by the wave. I took one drop on my belly then stood up, one where I popped up on one knee like drop knee style, one where I popped up on both knees. Not sure why I popped up in those positions, merely reacting to the wave smacking me as I tried to popup (no thought involved)

[IanCaio]

Yesterday was my second day of surfing since I moved to the coast. Lots of worries on my head, I needed a reminder of why I'm doing this.

2ft hawaiian, the closest surfing spot has some fat waves apparently, but I liked the fact it opens some long lines often. I couldn't stay too long because I had to go to work at afternoon, but it was enough to get me stooked.
First wave, frontside long ride, felt like I really was in control of everything, could go past chubby sections, ride it all the way until it faded. The long paddle back confirmed that it was a long ride, I gotta strengthen my shoulders
Second wave was pretty cool too, also frontside, rided it until two sections merged and I felt like I could try a floater, but I ended up just kicking out.
Had a few bad waves (poor picking, still getting used to the spot chubby waves) and the last one was an ok ride, back side, was doing good until I lost balance falling on my back on a top turn.
First time I had better frontside waves than backside ones.

Water had some debris after the big rain yesterday, didn't feel very clean. I know, I broke the "don't surf after rain" rule, but there was a long time between the last swell and this one. Random fact, there was a turtle on water. They look common in here.

[drowningbitbybit]

Totally fluffed the take-off this morning on a great wave due to my boardies being too tight... apparently I need to go on a diet!

[IanCaio]

Conditions were worse today, around 2ft hawaiian early at the morning, but a little weaker. Lots of longboarders, but they were friendly to leave a few for me
One of them even let me try his board! I wanted to try a longboard for a while, looked like a kook trying to learn it all over again . I pearled, poped up on the wrong spot. I could catch 2 or 3 waves, mostly going straight and tried to hang 5 already . Obviously I didn't manage to, just tried for trying! I think I'd get more used to the board it if I had more time to try it, but it was fun anyways!
After spending 10 minutes on the longboard, paddling on my board felt like I was draging a rock!

Could catch 2 alright waves today, small rides, but it was tottaly worth it! I'm thinking about hitting a hollower spot tomorrow, if I don't wake up completely tired.

[jaffa1949]

None , currently in Austria, looking for a mystery point break!

Be here for a month, a human sacrifice to bring swell to the east coast, glad you enjoyed the first offering cyclone Winstons gift! Look forward to some more ! Soon. Predicted flat spell when I come back at the end of March!