Advice needed for a transition board

[Mikelamusic]

Hey, all! I'll keep this brief. Started consistently surfing this summer. I've been riding an 8' Greco board. I'm interested on stepping down and have been borrowing a friend's 6'10" FW Dominator because it's all that's available for me to try. The day I took it out I ended up in WAY too big of surf for a newb such as my myself. It paddled well, and felt good though. In reality it's not the type of board that I want for the next step, it was just more of a gauge to test the waters. That said, a 6'6" FW Greedy Beaver has shown up at a good price, and looks enticing as a transition board. Seems to capture the best of both worlds and sized up seems that it could suit someone in my position. Anyone know much about these? I know they are new. Jut wondering if anyone has any reason to believe that this wouldn't be a good transition board for someone who usually picks up things pretty quickly? Thanks for the help gentlemen.

[Big H]

How often do you or will you surf and how good are you at the moment? What can you do on your 8' foamie? How old are you, heavy are you, tall are you and how fit (surfing fit) are you? What are the waves like where you are going to surf?

The size you're looking at for my weight is a 'tweener size.....too big to duck dive, too small to get the benefits of a larger board's paddle power....both for catching waves and getting back out back....jacking waves around here you wouldn''t be able to get in terribly early and you won't be able to race out back without taking some on the head and the float, nose profile and lack of weight / inertia of a heavier board isn't going to do you any favours when punching through, duck dipping or turtling to get out back which would limit you or not depending on where you were surfing and what kind of shoulders and channels exist....

I like the design, similar to the classic DT Scorpion (different fin config though); I have something similar but a bit longer (7') and enjoy it for the right conditions.....it is not a beginner's board and with 6" knocked off it definitely would not be and I wouldn't recommend it as such for an adult learner that will surf less than three times a week. The picking up quickly part only works if you spend a lot of time an effort in the water, as OMS stated recently in another post, there are a lot of ancillary skills that are involved that are well past the shape of the board and the fitness of the rider that when added up equal success or failure.

I know you said that there was a deal but hold out and look for an Addvance Firewire model....never ridden one but it seems to be unanimously loved by all who have one and if you like firewire, a great transition board / what you're looking for (in a longer length / higher volume.)

Honestly, if you're on a foamie now, I'd do first things first and transition from a foamie to a real 2nd hand surfboard of a similar size and length.....sort things out there for a few months or a year then come down in size....you'll have your hands full with a 8' mini mal with real fins and rails at least for a few months.

[Mikelamusic]

Thanks, Big H. I actually bit the bullet and grabbed it yesterday. It was surfed only once, then the wax was scraped. Looked brand new, came with top of line fins. I figured I'd give a shot and worst case scenario flip it if I'm not even close, or hang on to it for another day. To answer questions...

I'm 35, 5'10", 155, pretty athletic, in-shape with minimal body fat. Grew up snowboarding. Still developing the paddle power I'd equate with sprinting. Mostly surf for 1 to 1.5 hr sessions before my shoulders start to tire. Only been consistently surfing since summer. I'm out about 4 days a week. I am in SD, mostly surfing beach breaks (Tourmaline, Scripps, Coronado). One of my issues is still a little fearful and hesitant in shoulder/head high +. With all this big winter swell I have days where I sit out due to not feeling like getting crushed. I can turn both directions, ride the line, and paddle pretty fast on the foamie. I think the main thing holding me back sometimes is just fear.

*Side note*
I had a nightmare of an experience about a month ago where a buddy dragged me out to a point break at the cliffs (against my better judgement)... high tide, way too big of surf for me, and he stuck me on a 6'10" Dominator (which was my first time on anything smaller than 8'). I paddled out fine, felt good. Waves were too big for me to drop in on, so I was kinda just hanging on the shoulder trying to snag some. We had been out for like two hours when I got swallowed up in a cleanup set and then got crushed and stuck inside. Literally thought I was going to die, no joke. Had no paddle power left, just getting pummeled and pushed inTo a cliff. Since then I'm having to take baby steps when the swell picks up. Ultimately I'm just looking to be cruisey but with agility. Not looking for big, hollow waves or anything like that. I'd probably be fine not ever trying to be a short board ripper, I say that now... At any rate. I took the Beaver out this morning, certainly not as easy of a paddle but not bad by any means, though I never really caught anything. I'm sure it'll take time given the lower rails, concave, and whatnot, but I think I'll get it down after a few good days. If I'm truly struggling after a month or so maybe it'd make sense to try out like a 7' egg or minimal. For now, wish me luck!!

[RinkyDink]

With all this big winter swell I have days where I sit out due to not feeling like getting crushed. I can turn both directions, ride the line, and paddle pretty fast on the foamie. I think the main thing holding me back sometimes is just fear.

I don't feel like going through the paddle-out on big days either. So I just go to a beach that is usually double overankle when everywhere else is 2-3ft. I also go out where it is big and just catch the reforms from the outside set waves. Sometimes I can catch the whitewater of a set wave and simply ride it in in plank position and start paddling into the reform halfway between the outside lineup and the shorebreak. It's probably completely kookish, but I'm out there on a foamie anyway and the reforms can be pretty good. It does get cold dealing with all that whitewater though (a hood is practically required), but you have plenty of opportunities for practicing your duck dives. For me it's all about spending time in the ocean and getting to know how it works on the inside and outside. I just make sure I'm not in the way of surfers taking off on outside waves.

[oldmansurfer]

Work at your fitness. The more fit you are the more you can handle. Know the break you are going out at. Look for currents, rocky shorelines, shallow reef or rocks and have a plan to avoid or get out of those areas. Fear is your friend. If you listen to your fear it can help you to stay clear of danger. It also can give you an adrenaline boost which can help you perform in dangerous conditions. I think the safest way to approach surfing is to slowly edge out of your comfort zone. Don't suddenly place yourself into conditions well beyond your abilities. In snowboarding the mountain is immobile and you won't get caught inside or in a current (unless there is an avalanche) and if you are only going on beginner runs then you shouldn't suddenly go to an expert run . Also you don't need to paddle to catch the mountain, so there is another level of fitness you need to surf. In surfing you have to figure out where to be in an ever changing ocean and which waves to catch. It's entirely different and you need to be more cautious. Be safe.

[Big H]

Yeah......a lot more to surfing than just standing up and riding.....you need to learn how to deal with getting caught inside, how not to panic and how to safely get out of there....build up your fitness, learn to read the break, where you need to be and where you shouldn't be....really pay attention to water safety and develop good habits from now....I was a scuba instructor in a previous life and had to do things like mile and a half open water swims and tread water for an hour to build confidence and competence....even with that I took and still take a cautious approach and make sure all safety margins are well padded. All of this is being said because.......you need to get crushed.....over and over again!!!! That's the learning curve and you need to go through it to be able to surf. Be safe, but once you are comfortable out in the water, surfing with a buddy, fit enough to swim back to the beach a few times more distant than where you are surfing, and knowledgeable about the break, currents, tides and where you need to be......go get crushed and become a surfer!

As far as the board goes you own it now but that doesn't have to be forever....get out there and surf! If nothing else you will build ocean knowledge and your paddling endurance even if catching and riding proves to be a challenge. I just sold a board that was mine for less than 10 days; it wasn't for me. Don't try to make a cube fit a round hole; if it seems like you aren't getting anywhere sell it for something more suitable. Good luck and have fun!