by oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 13, 2015 3:59 pm
At my age I need to keep active. This is my motivation and reward for doing so. Physically I get vigorous exercise and a powerful massage from the waves when I wipe out or get caught inside. Mentally it's like meditation all thoughts leave my mind except for the waves. The bonus is it is Kauai and I don't need to think about what wet suit to wear. But I am glad I surfed those spots before they became zoos and once in a while I get a good wave where I am. I am just happy to be out there with a chance to catch a good wave. Any day in the ocean beats the heck out if sitting around at home.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.