Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

It was stormy and a little bigger today and this is probably the best wave I rode since I go the darn gopro

[oldmansurfer]

This is my wave in, Thought it might be a little interesting since I caught the wave and it went flat and I laid down to paddle some more but then it got steep again so I stood back up and I did a foam climb which I side slipped out of. Just something I noticed I do on smaller waves when I do foam climbs I just let the board go sideways down the foam. On a bigger wave I would turn to face the nose of the board back down the wave but on this one and all the foam climbs I have done recently (since they are all small waves) I kept the board parallel to the wave.

[dtc]

Nothing better than a last wave that takes you all the way in. I HATE paddling in through a big shorebreak, looking over your shoulder all the time, waiting to be dumped right into the beach....or paddling against the rip to avoid the waves.

[oldmansurfer]

Well I look at it all as a challenge and part of my training. I paddled against currents today to try to stay lined up and I took some waves on the head. Once I learn how to edit these videos I will make a cut of me going through the surf which I guess you may find interesting but over all I am trying to get in better shape and not overdo it. The waves I have surfed with a gopro on are only getting to interesting size today. I can get some real stoke from waves like today but the rest were just practice and hopefully the surf will be back to it's usual soon then I will have some real fun waves to show.

[IanCaio]

Hey guys, been missing for a while. Too much happening lately, still getting my head in place. Some good news though is that I'm probably going to be called to work at the docks in a place that has some surf. My first step on getting to live by the coast again.

Had a 1h-2h session sunday after almost a month out. 2ft hawaiian, shoulder high, regular formation (not bad, not great). Something bothered me right as I was getting started:
I paddled out and there was 1 older guy not far from me. He took off on a wave, went down the line. Not much later I took off on another one, and while setting myself on line I heard a whisper. But there was no one on the wave. I noticed just after droping and being all set to the wave, the guy was walking back to the line up (it was a little shallow) and was between the beach and the wave. If I had the skills to pump good, I could just go down the line faster, but I tried to pull off the wave. Just as I pulled off, the lip hitted the rail and I felt. Tried to hold the board with my feet but the wave just took it. I don't even think it hitted the guy, but I got up appologizing and he was getting all mad at me. I get I could have avoided it if I had more skills, but as far as I know the one paddling out has to be aware of the surfers. I didn't bother arguing with him, just kept surfing.

Had a wave to remember and keep on my head until next time. A right, backside wave. I did the bottom turn and realized the section was closing on me, so I tried a "snap" on the foam (like a foam climb I guess, but turning all the way facing the beach in just one move, I'm terrible with the tricks names). Nailed it, not sure if it had power and spray though, and went down again for another bottom turn. Ended up pumping on the end, but the wave was already getting flat.

Glad I didn't let that guy ruin my session.

[jaffa1949]

Two really good parts, the apology was fine no issue there you were not in the wrong!
First good part; you didn't let his anger put you off!
Second good part ; you had a good wave and improved what you can do, even linking a couple of moves !
don't be worried about laying out power and spray , the wave dictates what you can do.
Read the wave and ride the wave, don't try to force something onto the wave.
As you become more in tune with the waves more opportunity arises to ride more innovatively.

[oldmansurfer]

I surfed middle Horners today and it was a bit messy but fun around shoulder to head high

[oldmansurfer]

I surfed outside and inside Horners today. The inside was breaking unusually long and I caught a good wave right off the bat but failed to turn the gopro on. I pushed the button but it didn't go on. The outside looked good but there was a lot of floating debris in the water right in the lineup so I went in. I am sharing this wave because it shows the Horners rock and some debris.

[oldmansurfer]

This wasn't a very good wave but I did do a couple forward unweighting maneuvers to get around the whitewater and you can see some debris there too

[oldmansurfer]

I was out of sync with the waves today but I did manage to get a closeout floater which I enjoy

[drowningbitbybit]

Fading short-period windswell with the power being knocked out of it by a strong offshore this morning, not to mention absolute carnage of a crowd... but, hey, sometimes you just need to get wet

[Tudeo]

This morning beautiful but difficult waves with a jacking and barreling takeoff at spot X. The MSW prediction for Batu Bolong was 2.5ft @15s, but this spot is a swell magnet and produced perfect 3-4ft A-frame peaks. It was still a little shallow but the water was rising fast, and I was the only one there

By the time I finished my warming up and entered the water, 2 schools had arrived and 12 guys were hunting the same Left..

I positioned myself on the Right, that was still a bit too shallow to ride all the way, I had it all for myself. In the beginning of the session I just kicked out soon after takeoff. Nearly had my first barrel that way but due to the intensity of the jacking takeoff I did my turn a bit too late and just couldn't get in, but beautiful to see the barrel so close to my face.

Had some good rides and many many wipeouts The takeoff was so hard because the wave suddenly jacked up and I think the water got sucked in and over, that made it hard to paddle in the wave. It was a very pointy peak, if positioned too much on the shoulder u couldn't get in. I tried to angle my board to avoid the too steep drop but a few time didn't had enough control and pearled like I never pearled before.

All in all a satisfying surf

[Big H]

Sorted something today that I've been passively working on for awhile....I was able to recreate three times so I satisfied myself it wasn't an accident....been trying to figure how to paddle in at an angle, then at the critical moment arch back and set the fins for a split second while pushing hard on the inside rail with chin up looking at where I'm going to go so that the board while angled before takes advantage of that momentary platform you have on a steep wave to pivot on a relatively flat trim so that you set the board on a harder angle and then pop up and let the nose drop at the same time so that you can come down the face in the face....I was kinda doing it (wrote about it) but I wasn't in that great control....watched videos and more experienced guys in the lineup and they have much more control at the critical moment and while the nose sticks out like a plank in the wave they pivot it flattish then pop up with the rail in the face already....fast movement, that arch and pivot is a split second thing but I figured out in albeit only shoulder high waves the rhythm for the movement....

Next is to learn to pump up the face after pop up and keeping a high line rather than just running down like i did today and bottom turning....but was practicing bottom turn technique as well so it was all good....

[Jester]

Did something very silly today, went out in messy conditions for the hell of it, it was the 'laundromat' as Uncle Jaffa calls it.. I got ragged around by the dumping, choppy, angry slop and faced down a gazillion sets with a period of about 6 secs, trouble is it took me 4 secs to recover my sorry ass after each one

I am so unfit.. I can see OMS shaking his head from here

Anyway today mother nature was not a sexy siren or a playful pixie, she was a mean ol' battle-axe with a face like a bulldog chewing on a wasp and I'd just trodden mud through her kitchen..

Same again tomorrow so

[drowningbitbybit]

Crappy windswell and too high tide today... and weirdly aggressive old men on longboards... it's a crappy day on the beachie, there are no good peaks, there's miles of empty beach, so the pair of them sit directly - and I mean directly - in front of me. Yes, gentlemen, well done, you have blocked this "peak" and made sure that I can't get any waves, but... and this is really important guys... unless I move from right behind you, you can't get any waves either

Now, I'm not one to start a row over any wave, let alone 1ft of windslop, but if you paddle over and sit directly in front of me, I will sit directly behind you until a set comes and I'm totally in your way.

[Tudeo]

..the pair of them sit directly - and I mean directly - in front of me.

It's such a shame this happens all the time, it seems some people hunting for waves just lose all decency. Why not position urself tot the sides and take peak position after the surfer already waiting there took off?

I mean if there already is a tight pack it's every man for himself, but sitting there alone?? Come on!

The problem with this is it messes with ur peace. Being in the surf can be so beautiful and can give such a peaceful feeling of harmony and thankfulness, but then some asshole comes over to spoil it all.

[oldmansurfer]

I went surfing today with the one guy I see regularly who is older than me. The waves were inconsistent and my old man friend caught more waves than me but mostly mushburgers. He rides a ten foot longboard that catches waves really easy. I think he is getting in better shape. His belly is shrinking. here he is catching a wave

[dtc]

Crappy windswell and too high tide today... and weirdly aggressive old men on longboards... it's a crappy day on the beachie, there are no good peaks, there's miles of empty beach, so the pair of them sit directly - and I mean directly - in front of me. :

Well, almost summer holiday time when it wont be old men on longboards in front of you.... but clueless people of all ages floating around (sometimes on bodyboards) just in front of you without a clue that a 7ft lump of surfboard coming at them at the speed of a wave might actually cause some damage.

So there is that to look forward to

[oldmansurfer]

It was head high and stormy conditions. There was a mushy outside section and an inside section that often had a rideable wall or a closeout. I have the video from probably the best wave I caught which I made a few small turns on. It wasn't the most exciting or fun wave. I had numerous wipeouts that had a steeper drop and more exciting wall. You can't really see how steep the wall is from the video or how powerful the wipeout pounding. I got a good workout and workover today Hey and to think people pay big money to have their bodies manipulated when I get it for free

[oldmansurfer]

Ok so I made a video with music and edited a bit to show most of the waves I caught today