Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

]Windy and choppy and head high today but crumbling waves. I got this video of a wave that I caught it broke then kind of died off and rebuilt on the inside I did a weak foam climb and a weak bottom turn to a weak cutback, that was my best wave

[Jester]

Nice mellow lookin waves! You're getting well into the gopro now OMS, which one did you go for and are you using the mouth mount?

[oldmansurfer]

I am using a helmet mount. The camera doesn't quite capture the feel of the ocean. The waves were stormy breaking all over the place but they were weak and crumbly. I chose the helmet mount because it's hand free and won't result in a nunchaku for the waves to whack me with like a mouth or hand held camera would and I am fairly sure the board mount would get caught in my leash at least and break off

[Big H]

I like the point of view of the helmet mount. I would be annoyed with the helmet though. Looking at your videos makes me want one.

[Jester]

Am listening to the pixies and thinking what a great band for music in a surf video.

[oldmansurfer]

The helmet slightly blocks my view when I put my head down and slightly keeps me from opening my mouth all the way when I am completely winded but other than that it seems ok.....well maybe it starts to feel a bit tight after 30 minutes but I am going in anyway. I still need to learn to edit the videos

[oldmansurfer]

Went out today with the gopro again and I didn't get anything interesting so I am not posting it. The camera got turned to point down after a wipeout early in the session and doesn't show the waves too good. Too bad I should have had a video of one of the kite surfers waving at me as he passed by and I did catch some waves that might look fun but the camera was pointing down and it only shows the board and my legs and arms. I have to remember to check the angle after a wipeout. The waves were about the same today shoulder to head high and crumbly weak stuff.

[oldmansurfer]

I guess maybe this wave would be interesting. I wiped out and it turned the camera toward the board which ruined the rest of the photos. In the distance you can see kites from kite surfers. The camera makes them appear far away and it also makes the waves appear smaller and calmer than what it really was. There was a section that broke in front of me and I couldn't time a top turn so tried to go around and I was a fraction of a second too slow

[drowningbitbybit]

Tiny Kirra today... barely enough to surf, but I got a few skatey ones on my 5'10, and it was either that or do some work

[Tudeo]

Yesterday had some of the best waves of my life on my favorite secret spot, but also got bit cut up by the reef on hands and feet by entry and exit. Bit mixed feelings about it..

[oldmansurfer]

Didn't surf but the waves were huge on my way home from work. It was dark or I would have tried to get pictures....oh wait nope if it wasn't dark I would have grabbed my board and hit it out there. I haven't seen it like that in years probably 10 to 12 feet Hawaiian, big rolling rights. however this morning it was no longer like that

[drowningbitbybit]

Dammit, next time I will land that 360!

[oldmansurfer]

If I ever do a 360 I will likely have video of it

[dtc]

Just do a pirouette on your board. With a helmet cam, it will look like a 360

[drowningbitbybit]

Just do a pirouette on your board.

To be fair, about one-third to a half of the alleged 360 was more like a pirouette anyway as me and the board disagreed about which direction it would be good to go in next...

[oldmansurfer]

Well I haven't even attempted this yet but I know what I am looking for to do it. Thing is sometimes I do a cutback and by the time I think I could turn this into a 360 it's too late so I will try on a frontside bottom turn first on a end of wave section on a bigger wave. Need some bigger waves

[leinosaur]

This was pretty much me 10 days ago, granted I'm not japanese or a woman but I was definitely having a blast in shin-high lappers. I played the waiting game at a stony reef break of some acquaintance, soaking up autumn sun on a work-related road trip to Rhode Island while the tide rose to finally start breaking over an outside hump of the reef, deep enough to miss the fin and long enough to lock in an have some fun.

Four days before that was an epic rare just-overhead clean longer (but still medium-) period day in New Hampshire and I finally timed my arrival and found the right channel for paddling such that I was scoring loooong right handed slabs one after the next off the south end point of my usual humpy beach break. Hoping it will work again today, there, similar height, period and wind predicted although a more perpendicular swell direction this time.

Hoping to continue to develop my 'read' of the several breaks I trip to . . Scouting and patience and study have been paying off enough that even with ridiculously elevated stoke I manage to avoid splashing straight out into the first break I lay eyes on at the end of my 2 hour approach drive.

This morning low tide precedes first light by an auspicious 45 minutes, the low temp stayed well above freezing last night and it's supposed to be clear and sunny, if breezy today . . Water temp 52, air about the same by mid-morning . . . me somewhat rested from a week of night shifts and stoked to go hit it again, have been swimming every other day so I should have the lats for it. Up too early but will nap a bit again then hit the highway.

[drowningbitbybit]

Strong cross/offshore this morning with small waves and the occasional bigger set. I was going to take out my fat 5'10, but then at the last moment changed my mind and took my proper shortboard out. Glad I did as the water went (almost) glassy, and the wind kept the face up nicely on the sets. I wasn't expecting much today, but ended up getting a dozen nice waves

[oldmansurfer]

It was stormy again and head high and here is a wave that shows about what it was like

[Jester]

I would LOVE to surf that with you OMS! Send it over my way and the sunshine too!