Increasing small wave count

[oldenglish]

Sometimes bigger waves break a bit further out and are a bit more mushy. Plenty of days around here where the smaller waves will get you more bang for your buck than the larger ones. Just depends on the swell and sand bars.

[Big H]

Big waves here on beaches and reefs break further out and are heavier....easier to catch....they're bigger....can't recall a bigger wave that was softer than an smaller one at the same break.....

When the swell is big waves often come into a given spot bigger than the spot can handle....waves just tower, dump and closeout....meaning the best size is smaller than those waves at that break.....part of getting a spot dialed is figuring out what the best size waves are for that break....when the planets align and conditions are providing a majority of of the waves in the determined optimal size it's run don't walk time.....unfortunately, seems like this kind of spot info is common knowledge because everyone comes out of the woodwork on days a spot is really working at it's best size and wind conditions....I'm preaching to the choir though seeing as we're all part of the woodwork crew checking out surf reports rather than budget reports.....

[oldmansurfer]

Sometimes the waves where I surf will wall up on the inside offering tubes and while outside sometimes isn't so tubular it does hook up with the inside so you can take your chances on both areas on one wave if you so chose. If the wave is big enough then even if it's crumbly it will offer a face to carve on. But overall I would say bigger waves are faster and require faster paddling to catch them or being more exactly in the right place. But waves that suddenly lurch up can be difficult to catch at any size.

[Big H]

But waves that suddenly lurch up can be difficult to catch at any size.

....welcome to Bali....

[dtc]

I think Old Man has it - bigger waves = faster = faster paddling to catch.

On a small board, there isn't much assistance paddle wise (why people use step up boards for larger waves). I suspect benjl was paddling fast enough for the smallest wave but even the increase to a slightly bigger wave meant it was going too fast and he was missing it. It might just require a slight change in approach and possibly a slight change in position (esp if you are used to a 7ft2 board, you probably aren't going to be in the right place the first time).

Once up, again the small board requires more rider input to keep the speed up than a longer board.

[benjl]

Yeah it could've had something to do with the sand banks and being a bit mushier further out. Anything close to the beach I could catch as easily or easier than the 7'2 but in the bigger sets (still only shoulder high) I couldn't get enough speed further out to make them. I'd get caught up at the crest.
On the 7'2, the board would just have that extra bit of float that even if I got caught at the crest it would push the board along until it got a bit more critical and then drop down.

I wish the banks had been better so I could've got some longer turns on the 5'6. It was pretty much just like: catch the wave, pop up, turn once, wave crashes (in about 5 secs total).

Would love to try one of those shorter boards at my normal break where it's routinely head size with power and see if it still catches them early or whether they wouldn't paddle fast enough or be easy to catch