by oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 14, 2015 7:25 pm
I should say that because of my incorrect muscle memory about multiple fins I did my first and only significantly high (6 to 8 feet) airdrop. I have done some that were just a foot or two but this was on a big backside steep wave at Horners. I took off and turned at the top and quickly realized I had done the wrong thing again and straightened out but by then the wave was beyond verticle below me. As I dropped off I sort of went into a crouch and the board came up under me and right before I landed I extened my legs and pushed the board back down till it contacted the water. I landed without much of a jar and I thought OMG! I am still on the board!!!! and made a bottom turn around the section and got back onto the wave. I have no clue how I pulled that off but it was intense with much adrenalin rushing through me.
But now I have gotten my steep drops down for multiple fins and it doesn't seem to matter if there are three or four fins. Maybe I will try 5 fins next??? I am glad I don't try to turn at the top anymore. I recall one time where I was surfing with my neighbor and his son and I knew his son was near where I was taking off and I tried to turn at the top and made it down a little ways but the lip caught me at about my chest area and held me while my board started to drop away. I knew the boy was inside of me and managed to keep one foot in contact with the board and then felt the board push up under that fully extended leg and I managed to push the board away from where the boy was with that one foot before I got pummeled by the wave all of this being underwater from my legs up in the lip waiting to go over.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.