
They were ripping, not stepping, doing these wide bottom turns and cutback carves, it was a joy to look at.
I was doing ok on my 6/6 48l hybrid but was soon tiring of the long paddle back to the point, but these old guys just kept going and taking the big waves outside.
I've seen the light, I want a good big board!

Maybe u guys can tell me what to look for in a big board for easy paddling and good waves 1.5x OH? Dimensions, outline, volume, foil, rocker, etc.
I'm not looking for noseriding at this time, just doing nice carving turns. All the spots I surf (in Bali) have channels or other ways for easy paddle out, I only have to fight the white water when getting caught inside.
I'm 52yo, 73kg (160-165lbs), 182cm (6ft), lower end intermediate I guess.
It would be nice if it would fit in my car, maximum length about 8'10" (270cm), but if there are strong arguments for going longer it will go on the roof, tidak apa apa
