Surfing as adventure travel

[adverd]

Guys, What will you say about surfing as adventure? Post your views about this thrilling activity and let me know guys why you love this? Did you enjoy it for pass time or having furn with your partners? I hope community members will give response here!

[jaffa1949]

This whole life is an adventure. Why?
Because I ain't getting out of it alive!
If you really get the surfing bug your non surfing friends will not understand ( it's only a sport)
The adventure no matter who you go with is entirely of your own making!

[adverd]

You are right non surfing friends can't understand it. I think you don't like adventure activities.

[oldmansurfer]

I have led an adventurous life and for most of it the ocean has played a large role in it be it bodysurfing, skim boarding, paipo boarding, surfing, kayaking, sailing, fishing, skin diving, scuba diving or whatever. Yet still that is only part of the adventurous things I did. I would also agree with Jaffa that life is an adventure if you make it one.

[oldmansurfer]

Here is a non surfing adventure A fairly spectacular almost dieing episode was when I was hiking a long the Napali coast on a trail. It was spectacularly beautiful part of the trail that went along a cliff about 200 feet above the ocean along the edge of a shear cliff. I was goofing around since I was totally used to hiking trails like this and stepped off the trail onto hard red dirt. I slipped and fell and started sliding down this dirt slope toward the cliff. I dug my fingers in but there was no purchase since the dirt was very hard and crumbled. This stuff looks like you typical red dirt but really is more like a kind of rock since it is very hard and not very dirt like. I was trying my best to find some grip on something to stop my slide when I felt my legs go over the cliff. I thought this was it. For sure this time I was going to die. I regretted being so hard on my parents and I thought about maybe pushing off from the cliff as I went over to clear the likely rocks at the bottom and try to land on my backpack in the ocean. Then the rest of my body slid over the edge and as I watched the edge of the cliff go by I saw that at the very edge of the cliff was some rock that protruded about an inch from the dirt. I thought maybe I can catch that little bit of rock with my fingers. To my relief I did grab that little bit of rock with my finger tips, So there I was hanging by my fingers with a 35 pound pack on my back with the ocean 200 feet below. My thought was "WOW! I am still alive!" And then "WOW! My fingers are so strong. They are supporting my entire weight and I don't even feel strained. Must be the adrenalin. I bet I can hang her by just one finger." I realized I better not try that. Then I figured I needed to find a foot hold so I felt around with my boots to find places to support my weight. By that time my hiking partner had come down the dirt slope like a fool with his pack still on and was trying to grab my hand. He had nothing to hold on to and I was afraid we would both fall. I told him to go back up take off his pack and get the rope from the top of his pack that we both carried and tie it on to something solid then drop the rope down here so we don't both go over the cliff. It's amazing how adrenalin makes your mind think so fast and so clearly (well my mind anyway). We hiked together all the time and we both carried a rope in the top of our packs just in case of some emergency but in the face of an emergency he forgot about it. I had him take my pack off first and tie it to the rope and then help me get up without the pack on.

We hiked into Kalalau and camped at the beach. The next day we were looking at the cliff next to the waterfall on the beach and thinking it looked like we could climb it. It went up fairly straight for about 75 feet then sloped less steeply up to the top. We figured if we fell the sand was real soft and we would be ok. So we free climbed it. Starting off we had to pull ourselves up with just our arms because the cliff was eroded at the base so there was no foot hold for about 8 feet. Anyway the climb went well but when I go to the top, I saw a patch of that red dirt and I said no way and walked around it. My friend Dave went straight up the red dirt even after I warned him. He got to the top of the red dirt and slipped and slid over the edge of the cliff catching himself as I did the day before right at the edge. He was freaking out but having just gone through this same thing I told him to relax and find some footholds and I found a good grip on a nearby boulder and reached my hand out and pulled him up.