by dtc » Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:52 pm
You need to fix your pop up is the basic answer. The funboard is probably just that little bit faster and little bit less stable than the foamboard, and the getting to one knee method is just a little bit too slow. If you aren't up by the time the board is heading down the face, you will fall off because your base is just not stable enough. You need to be standing.
Popping up and getting it right is a hard thing to learn - its a very unnatural movement, and then you are doing it at funny angles and waves breaking and thing whizzing around in your head and you want to slow down to figure it all out but things are going too fast (and slowing down makes things worse...).
But once you have it nailed, then it becomes second nature and you can do it without even thinking (at times I find myself standing and don't even remember popping up). You need to pop up in one motion and quickly - practice on land, then practice on land some more. Also, practice in the white water. Rather than trying to catch waves, get in the white water and practice popping up 30 times. Then do that the next session as well. And keep doing it until you have the muscle memory down pat. Then go out and look for an unbroken wave.
There are some videos around pop ups but they tend not to be too useful... I remember watching a bunch of them and still not being able to figure out how to actually do it. But have a look at 4 or 5. Search on this forum re 'pop up' and there are a few pretty good discussions and people have their own tips.
It comes down to (a) getting the actions correct and (b) making the correct actions your muscle memory.
Your funboard should be fine - as oldman says, its a harder board to surf than the longboard but you should be able to do it.
After that its simple...