Riding a Fish the same size as my height?

[yumyumyellow]

The thing about surfing is: The better you get at it, the more you realize you actually suck. I remember being in the OP's shoes and thinking I was soooo close to having this surfing thing all figured out. A year and a half later, I'm very happy with my progress and I would say if I'm having a good day you could just barely call me an intermediate surfer, but the more I progress, the more I realize how far away I am from being any good, but it's a fun journey for sure. I certainly couldn't have made the progress I have on a too small board (trust me, I tried...more than once).

[Tudeo]

The best surfer is the one having the most fun!

If you consider going straight in the soup fun, then I guess you're right. But to me surfing is about TRIM ( going along the face of the wave, no faster or slower than it is ).

Having fun is most important, but fun is generated in different ways. For the beginner it can be just the sensation of riding the white water for the advanced it can be doing that new move or riding that near perfect wave in the near perfect way. So ur both right.

[drowningbitbybit]

The best surfer is the one having the most fun!

If you consider going straight in the soup fun, then I guess you're right. But to me surfing is about TRIM ( going along the face of the wave, no faster or slower than it is ).

Having fun is most important, but fun is generated in different ways. For the beginner it can be just the sensation of riding the white water for the advanced it can be doing that new move or riding that near perfect wave in the near perfect way. So ur both right.

Ooh, contentious issue - what is the most fun part of surfing?

Personally, I like riding a collapsing wave and the downward plummet - which is not the same as riding the soup, but it's also not the trimming. When that big set comes in, you'll often see the whole line up paddle towards the horizon while I'm paddling for it... yeah, I know it's too late, and I know I'm never going to get onto the clean face. It's like the base-jump of surfing

[Tudeo]

I'm still stoked when crouching down on a Right and seeing that moving mountain of water so close to my face. Or when feeling the acceleration when turning the nose down on the face or feeling the G-forces when doing a cutback or..

But actually having fun is not as easy as it sounds, u can get hung up so easy by fanatically wanting to do this or experience that, and then getting frustrated if it's just not happening. It's an art of life to just take it as it comes and be content with it.

[Big H]

In short.....enjoy the journey....

[jaffa1949]

I'm still stoked when crouching down on a Right and seeing that moving mountain of water so close to my face. Or when feeling the acceleration when turning the nose down on the face or feeling the G-forces when doing a cutback or..

But actually having fun is not as easy as it sounds, u can get hung up so easy by fanatically wanting to do this or experience that, and then getting frustrated if it's just not happening. It's an art of life to just take it as it comes and be content with it.

New name Tubeo !

[drowningbitbybit]

But actually having fun is not as easy as it sounds, u can get hung up so easy by fanatically wanting to do this or experience that, and then getting frustrated if it's just not happening. It's an art of life to just take it as it comes and be content with it.

I went out the other day when it was really too small and too high tide to be worth it... and it wasn't, so after half an hour of frustration, I got out. Then walking back along the beach on a beautiful winter's day, at 10am on a Tuesday morning when I really should have been doing some work, I just burst out laughing - how did the fat short little kid from dreary saff-east london end up here doing this? Even if the surf wasn't all that great, life is good

[Tudeo]

Even just talking about surfing is a blessing, cos still in the game