Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

so are blackrock, crooked and the rivermouth all on the same beach/bay? Just further out from each other

Yes and blackrock which is a bout a 600 yard paddle out almost always has waves but when it is good it usually has SUPers. Crookeds which is about a 100 yard paddle out almost never has worthwhile waves but when it does it is a fast small right that breaks over a shallow reef not for beginners so the locals like it because it punishes the noobs that try to surf there. I don't know if the sand bar has a name but I call it the rivermouth sandbar and it breaks to the beach. Then there is the sandbars in the middle of the beach which has several unnamed breaks but generally called middles when it's bigger. To the far left is inside Horners shallow reef that breaks right off the shore, middle horners maybe 50 yards out , Horners and big rights which are 300 to 400 yards out. and somewhere about a 0.75 to 1 mile out is Makaiwas which almost always has waves. This is why I can usually find something to surf there

[oldmansurfer]

Also just to point out that I am often the only guy surfing this beach because there are breaks all over the place and probably better waves elsewhere. To the left and right there is a outside reef that has numerous peaks and walls if you like shallow reef. The beach break most of the local surfers go to is 4 miles down the road at kealia beach. About 6 miles the other way is Kalapaki where lots of newbs and SUPers and a bunch of local guys go to surf. It may be catching a swell from the south swell hitting us now. My shaper friend is going surfing at Pakala's which is maybe 25 miles down the road and proabaly pumping. I saw my neighbor who is just a little younger than me heading out this morning. Didn't get to ask him but he is probably headed to Pakalas too.

[dtc]

Break names are interesting. You listed all the breaks with names and I was thinking most of mine are 'xxx beach south end' or 'xxx beach north end'. But reef breaks tend to get a proper name.

It good that you have multiple breaks in the same place. Obviously a lot of larger beaches have different sandbars and if you are lucky some kind of point break (although very few around me), so I guess they off multiple places to surf, but mostly they are pretty similar (same distance from shore, face the same swell etc).

[oldmansurfer]

There are reefs that run out on both sides of the bay. I call the rivermouth sandbar that because the river pushes sand out to a point like break and it is often fun and hollow . The middle part (all sand) is just called Middles. I haven't asked the younger surfers what they call the breaks now but outside Horners actually has about 4 or 5 peaks and middle horners could have 2 or so peaks as well as inside Horners might have 2 peaks that could be named. Then further over the reef is called Crabs because Buster Crab used to live in a house on the beach in that area. The right side is called Blackrock way out side but there are about 3 or 4 peaks there and numerous inside peaks as well and I haven't asked if anyone names them.

[drowningbitbybit]

Small to medium swell this morning... but strong offshore winds. The waves looked nice, but were so hard to get into early enough to make anything of (particularly when "resting" sore shoulders).
I made a mistake and took out my small wave board... the waves were small, so a small wave board, right? Well, no... they might have been small, but the walls were vertical. There was a lot of slipping off the face and bogging down. Shoulda taken a proper board out!

[oldmansurfer]

kooked out today except for a couple waves. The weather was nice no one out at the rivermouth sandbar and some head high waves although really inconsistent choppy an bumpy and breaking all over the place. I did do a functional foam climb today (waist to knee high ) that combined with the follow up bottom turn and forward hop got me back onto the unbroken face It looks like the break I usually go out at in the middle of the bay may start to break again

[oldmansurfer]

I went out to day to middle Horner's because it had some nice waves. Outside Horner's was breaking but it was breaking all over the place and frequently. One of the consequences of that is a really strong current in the middle part going sideways away fro the lineup. I spent 90% of my time paddling. I couldn't stop because I would rapidly be taken out of the lineup. OMG I am so tired. I think I am getting too old for this.........wait a minute...I didn't mean that I think I am close to getting too old for this I had to check my self to be sure I wasn't too tired. If I were that tired at the outside break I would head in but from the middle break it's not too hard to get in even though I know there is also a current going out right along the edge of the reef. I caught a couple waves and was off balance on the bottom turn and ended cutting out by mistake. I think this is just because I was tired. I went in after the prospect of paddling back out seemed to loose my interest and went back to my car looking for my wife who had the keys and my phone. She wasn't around so I rested a bit and was watching the river mouth sandbar and it had some fun looking waves so I paddled out there and just when I got out I saw my wife on the beach so I caught a wave which closed out and I did a floater as a closeout maneuver and rode it in to the beach in between all the beginners there taking surf lessons

[Tudeo]

I spent 90% of my time paddling.

Same here this morning, was surfing Oldmans I couldn't stay in the takeoff zone due to the strong east-west current. Decided to quit early but then on the way in saw an interesting left on the other side of the channel. When I sat there for a couple of minutes the rip had brought me all the way out again. Had to paddle acros the channel again to catch the bus home. Tiring.
It was my first dawn patrol in a very long time, that was about the only success this session

[drowningbitbybit]

Tiny... absolutely tiny this morning... but things getting a bit desperate after a couple of weeks of near-flatness or windy mush.
Went out on my 'big' 6'10 at the point, but there were so few waves coming through, and when they did, the longboards were on them way before the rest of the pack. Gave up and went to the beachie and caught a few shories.
Turned out to be quite fun in the end riding tiny (1ft) but clean waves, and the occasional bomb set (2ft...). The big board could catch anything and could set a rail nicely even if the turning isn't quite what I'm used to

[drowningbitbybit]

Still tiny today!

The point was working but packed today, so went out on one of the beachies. Tiny waves, but they jacked up reasonably well, and there was the odd set coming through. I didn't realise how well they were jacking up until my very last wave when I tried to duck under a cover up and it landed on my head - technically that's head high

[CutbackBretto]

Just got out of the water at my favourite local point break. Light offshore wind, 2ft sets and long walls. I love my life

[oldmansurfer]

There is a storm off the coast that is making waves. My wife called me at the end of work to ask me if I wanted to go hiking and mentioned the surf was up really big she said and said I wouldn't want to go out there. But I was dying to try my new board out on some well overhead rights so I drove home got my board and headed out. Got worked over pretty good but did catch one good ride. I hit the lip and on the next top turn did a cutback. Nothing fancy but it probably looked good because it was well overhead. Overall I think the board works good but doesn't handle chop as well as my other board. I took off on one wave and it had a fantastic looking wall and I was thinking this was going to be great but it was like a double wave and the bottom of the wave had a huge 2 to 3 foot step. I hit it and landed and was still standing and thought great but then I fell down. There were a couple young men out there with me and back on the beach after the session one of them said "I don't even work that hard at work":) me too lol me too

[oldmansurfer]

I forgot to mention that the surf wasn't all that big but my wife who had become used to the lack of waves for the last 3 or 4 months noticed a marked difference. I think they were about 4 to 5 feet where I was (peaks up to 12 feet). There were waves breaking all over it looked much nicer this morning and yesterday morning. Not for the casual surfer. Apparently the surf was much better elswhere on the island http://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/story/29688576/high-surf-advisory-issued-ahead-of-east-swell-from-hurricane-guillermo

[BaNZ]

This is on the other side of the Pacific now. No one is allowed in the water.

[oldmansurfer]

When they close the beaches here surfers always figure that doesn't mean them. I heard the fire rescue trucks going all over the place yesterday luckily it wasn't for me Are you still in Taiwan? Nasty weather headed there, be safe

[jaffa1949]

The bottom end of New South Wales is having another swell drought along with the bitter blowing off the snow winds, just when Uncle Jaffa is trying to match fit for the Lombok trip.
A little swell snuck onto the bar an lo and behold sixty + frothers emerged from their abodes and proceeded to slaughter each other with aggressive drop ins.
Uncle Jaffa endowed with the patience of a saint holds his go out until the crowd thins.
Which it does because of a body numbing howling onshore wind, so I come home and type this.

[Big H]

I haven't been out since Wed. Not good here at the moment either. We get a bump this Tuesday though.

[drowningbitbybit]

Some days you are just on it...



...and some days you're not

Solid headhigh barrels at Kirra this morning, but I was just flailing all over the place... in fact, 'flailing' doesn't even cover it. What's beyond flailing? A combination of crowds, strong currents and a few too many beers on a few too many nights over the last week, and I was just getting nowhere today.

Cut the session short after about 15 minutes. Some days it's better to just call it quits

[drowningbitbybit]

...oh, but at least I didn't snap my board like a friend did this morning

[oldmansurfer]

Head high waves at a sandbar. Nothing exciting except the hurricane on it's way. The peaks shift over wildly as they get near breaking which makes it hard to lineup. I did a cutback with one arm over my head because I was a little off balance